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Kas. Olympos. Antalya. Fethiye. These are the romantic Turkish cities scattered along the Mediterranean Coast. Or the Southwest coast aka Turkey’s Turquoise Coast. Popular with resort travelers, but often missed by budget travelers who instead hit Istanbul and Cappadocia. But you can spend a week or two beach-hopping and hiking along Turkey’s Turquoise Coast with this 2-week itinerary on a budget quite easily. And it was actually my favorite part of our 6-week visit to Turkey.
How to Spend 2 Weeks on Turkey’s Turquoise Coast
We started our journey through Turkey by flying into the small resort town of Antalya. Most tourists in search of cheap flights, however, fly into Istanbul. No matter where your Turkish adventure begins this itinerary can be done in a loop. I’ll share the route from Istanbul as your starting point since that will be most helpful for the majority of people.
Also, this route can obviously be extended to allow for more time at each destination. But this is an itinerary for travelers tight on time who want to know what the minimum amount of time required to see the “western” half of Turkey is.
Istanbul (2 days)
Unlike every other blogger in the world it seems, when I first arrived in Istanbul I hated it. But after a few sunny days and scouting out the best neighborhoods, I too fell for the city. The more time here you can spend the more you’ll enjoy it. Istanbul has lots of “must-see” attractions but I found them to be overcrowded, expensive, and generally a disappointment. Check out my full guide to the best things to do in Istanbul for my favorite food + cafe recommendations.
Istanbul to Ankara: Book the high-speed YRT Train at least 4-days in advance. This is why it can be beneficial to give yourself more time in Istanbul. The train costs about $8 and takes 4.5 hours vs a bus which costs nearly $18 and takes 9 hours. A little planning ahead helps a lot here.
Ankara (1 day)
Many people skip Ankara entirely. If you don’t plan to add Cappadocia to your itinerary then I recommend skipping Ankara and continuing on to Antalya. This extra day could be used for Istanbul eating instead.
But if you are curious about the cultural (and political) capital of Turkey I’ve got some food + lodging recommendations for you.
Where to Eat + Sleep in Ankara
Ankara is a concrete city. Few hostels, guesthouses, and even fewer “typical” tourist attractions indicate that the city is not a common stopover for foreign tourists. What it lacks in stuff to do + see, it makes up for with great food.
Minthat Hotel. Actually spelled Otel.
One of the only budget-friendly options in the city. Your room will overlook one of the most impressive mosques in the area as well. This also means front row seating for the call to prayer at 4:30 AM.
Inn 14 Hostel is another great option if you’re okay with bunks.
WARNING! Booking.com does NOT work when you are inside Turkey. This is a huge bummer and has to do with the Turkish government’s ongoing feud with the company. This means that unless you have a VPN (super easy to get an app) you won’t be able to book on the website. I recommend booking as much as you can before you arrive in Turkey. Or just use a VPN and keep your flexibility.
Uludag Kebapçisi
If you only eat one meal in Ankara make it this one. Don’t be put off by the starched white tablecloths and the fact that it’s inside what appears to be a fancy hotel. The prices are very cheap. They only offer a handful of dishes (despite the bulky menu they give you) but that’s fine because what you want is the Iskender. Sometimes called Iskender Kebap. It’s not on the menu but it’s their specialty. Thinly sliced meat laid over crispy pita croutons topped with tomato sauce + then drenched in several sticks worth of melted butter poured onto your plate tableside.
Urfali Haci Memet
This was a busy local restaurant that also specialized in Kebap. Super cheap, tasty, and you get unlimited tea with your meal.
Kirit Cafe
This cafe is at the top of the hill overlooking all of Ankara and has one of the best Turkish breakfasts (with real coffee) in all of Turkey. It’s in a super touristy part of town, but don’t be fooled it’s worth eating for sure.
The real reason we ended up in Ankara was the Iranian Embassy. Picking up our visa documents for Evan’s solo venture to Iran. You can read about his time in the world’s most difficult country to enter (with an American Passport) here.
Ankara to Antalya or Cappadocia: Both cities have bus connections in Ankara. For Cappadocia, you’ll want to go to the town of Göreme (where the balloons are) + where you’ll likely stay.
Add On: Cappadocia (4 days)
I have a full guide covering all the things you need to know about the Cappadocia region including why you should stay for no less than 4 days. Especially if you plan on flying in one of the hot air balloons. Even though this is technically not on Turkey’s turquoise coast, this is a great add-on for a 3-week tour of Turkey.
Cappadocia to Antalya: You can also take a bus directly from Göreme to Antalya. You’re not even off track.
Antalya (1 day)
Turkish people know this small city as a popular resort destination. I found it to be a lovely relaxing stopover (with again, some great local eats) with a beautiful seaside boardwalk for strolling + a European vibe you don’t find in most other places in Turkey.
Here is our full guide to the best eats in Antalya.
I also recommend picnicking at the pier, exploring the streets of the old town, checking out the nearby Düden waterfall, or taking an extra day to visit the Güver Canyon on a rafting tour. We stayed at Lily Boutique Guesthouse where the host was able to give us all the best recommendations for the city.
Antalya to Olympos: This is an easy bus journey. About 1.5 hours and you’ll be dropped at the side of the road to wait for the little minivan or Dolmus that will take you the rest of the way to your hotel near Olympos beach.
Olympos (1 day)
Every country seems to have one remote town that the hippy community takes over. Olympos is that place. Huge rocky karsts (popular with rock climbers) jut from the green mountains and this small community set on a river sits between them. But what makes Olympos unique is that it’s also seaside. Pressed against the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea with ancient Lycian ruins practically on the pebbly beach. In high season, Olympos is filled with trekkers (from the Lycian Way) and party backpackers. But during the shoulder months of Spring + Fall, it’s the perfect place to unwind.
What to do with one day in Olympos.
- Stay at Mercan Pension. Cheap, comfortable, cabin-style lodging very near the beach. It also includes breakfast + dinner buffets.
- Olympos Beach. It costs $6 but it’s an absolute must-see. Great for a swim in warm weather too.
- The Lycian Ruins. Especially in Spring while wildflowers erupt through the broken stone it’s a sight to see. Your entrance fee to the ruins is included in your ticket to the beach.
- Climb the ancient church. There is a heavily vegetated trail to the top of the beachside church. This vantage point offers the best view of the beach.
- Walk the coastline. Not toward the other seaside town but along the trail to the right of the beach. You can find it on maps.me and discover your own little hidden bays to relax in.
- Enjoy Gozleme at one of the family-run stalls near the beach ticket office. Since nearly all lodging takes care of breakfast and dinner you only have to fend for yourself during lunch.
- This is also a great town to try beginner rock climbing.
Olympos to Kas: Catch a dolmus (around 9 AM) in Olympos to the top of the hill and wait for a bus to Kas. This is only another hour or so away.
Kas (1-2 days)
Kas is filled with jewel-colored waters, sunken cities, and is very popular with wealthy resort tourists. We didn’t stop and stay in Kas and definitely regret it. Since it’s such a beachy destination it’s best during the end of spring through summer months.
Here’s what I wouldn’t miss.
- Kayaking the Sunken City.
- Visiting Kaputas Beach (we actually did do this).
By the way, it’s pronounced “cahsh“. This region of Turkey’s turquoise coast is also very well suited to a road trip and seeing all the isolated roadside beaches + vistas, we wished we had our own rental car to drive from Antalya to Fethiye.
Kas to Fethiye: Bus time again. About an hour and a half. Unless you were smart and rented a car for this portion of the journey.
Fethiye (1 day)
Fethiye is a far larger city than it feels initially. Large boats moored in the marina, crumbling mossy Petra-like ruins overlooking the city carved into the cliffside. Almost all travelers who linger here are planning to embark on the Lycian Way. Or they won’t stay long.
You must visit the Ancient city of Telmessos. Those massive carved ruins I mentioned before. It’s under a $1 to visit them close up. But unless you visit for sunset when the hillside they sit on offers the best view of the city, you might as well just admire them from anywhere in the old town region.
Kayakoy ghost town is also well worth an afternoon. This entire 10,000-person hillside village was forcibly abandoned when Turkey “swapped” citizens with Greece after the war. The Christians who inhabited the town were moved to Greece + a large number of Muslim residents of Greece were sent to Turkey. It was supposed to help both countries create a sort of national identity. But due to differences in lifestyle the Muslims (farmers) couldn’t utilize the rocky landscape and left the town abandoned. Where it still sits crumbling into the countryside.
I chose to stay at Sakura Hostel in Fethiye + found the dorms to be super cheap, right in the heart of old town, and they were able to help us plan for the Lycian Way.
Fethiye to Lycian Way: After preparing for your multi-day hike let’s get you to the trailhead. You have three potential starting points. The top of Butterfly Valley, the bottom of Butterfly Valley, or the town of Oludeniz. The town of Oludeniz and the top of Butterfly Valley are both reachable via small local buses. It takes either 15 or 25 minutes depending on the end destination. The bottom of Butterfly Valley (my recommended start point) is accessible only via boat from Oludeniz pier. Take the bus to Oludeniz and then the boat.
Lycian Way (3 days)
The Lycian Way is one of the most underrated and least known things to do on Turkey’s turquoise coast. If you are at all a fan of the outdoors or hiking you have to at least hike the route for a day or two. The trail in its entirety is more than 3 weeks long stretching from Fethiye to Antalya. You’ll need to shoulder a pack filled with sleeping materials including a tent & several days’ worth of food at a time (at the very least). Most travelers simply aren’t equipped for that kind of adventure unless it was planned far in advance.
Fortunately, you don’t have to do the trail in its entirety to relish the Lycian Way experience.
You can leave the majority of your stuff in Fethiye (securely at a hostel like Sakura Hostel). & then either rent a tent or rely on guesthouses in each of the stops mentioned above.
What you Need to Know About Hiking the Lycian Way
- Best time to hike? No crowds: April-May, Best Swimming Weather: June-July
- Guesthouses typically won’t have a book online option + you will have to rely on walk-up.
- During the April- early May trekking months, there are FAR fewer amenities and guesthouses open on the trail. Pack more snacks + consider renting a tent to bring on your own. We did it without a tent but options were limited and much more expensive than usual.
- In places like Kabak + Butterfly Valley, you can rent a tent from the guesthouses nearby as well for a budget-friendly lodging option.
- Bring lots of water. The trails are pretty exposed and involve a lot of elevation change in some parts.
- Maps.me is your best friend for this trail. They even have some incredible wild camp spots marked for travelers.
What’s my recommended route for typical travelers?
(3 Nights) Begin at the Bottom of Butterfly Valley
Night One: Top of Butterfly Valley
Night Two: Kabak
Night Three: Alinca (via Paradise Beach)
Optional Night 4: Gavuragili or take the bus back to Fethiye.
If you really short on time you can try this 2-night alternative.
Begin at the Bottom of Butterfly Valley
Night One: Top of Butterfly Valley
Night Two: Kabak (hike out + back to Paradise Beach)
Whatever you don’t skip Paradise Beach. All of the coastline is incredible but this area is particularly beautiful.
End of Lycian Way: Now it’s time to nab a bus back to Fethiye where you left your stuff and continue onto Pamukkale or Selçuk. This could be another great time to add a rest day so you can shower and not just jump straight onto another bus.
Add on: Pamukkale (1 day)
I think that the mineral pools of Pamukkale get a little too much hype in my opinion. Even in peak season, they aren’t the crystalline mineral blue pools you’ve seen on Instagram. & the town is incredibly small. You definitely won’t need more than a single day.
The bus from Fethiye was stunning and my favorite part of choosing to visit Pamukkale. That and the delicious traditional Turkish food at Heira Cafe. Make a reservation as soon as you arrive to ensure they can accommodate you for dinner. The cafe is actually reservation only after COVID.
Pammukale to Selçuk: Another set of buses. You’ll take the shared minibus back to Denizli and from there a larger bus to Izmir and then another quick minibus to Selçuk. I’m sure you could also find a direct tourist shuttle but you’ll pay far more. This chunk of transport will take the better part of a full day. Keep this in mind.
Sulçuk + Ephesus (1 day)
When I was told Sulçuk was a popular port for cruises in the area, I almost canceled our visit. But Evan is a history nerd and wouldn’t let us leave without seeing Ephesus firsthand. Which turned out to be the best decision.
This little town is anything but your typical touristy cruise port. Set around a lovely park rimmed with citrus trees, Selçuk is also one of the largest stork nesting sights in the world. The storks migrate up from Egypt + if you visit in the Spring you’ll catch them laying eggs in thier nests here. As far as actual sights to see, other than simply savoring the small-town life, it’s pretty much just Ephesus. Okay, that’s not entirely true. There’s tons of history in the area but it’s up to you how deep you want to dive into ruins + biblical caves. This is a quick list of all the things you could stay and see in Selçuk.
- The sprawling city of Ephesus. $9 entry fee. Incredibly preserved + you can walk from town.
- Cave of the Seven Sleepers. A cave where 7 men who claimed to have slept for hundreds of years to avoid religious prosecution were buried.
- Church of the Virgin Mary.
- Caves where John the Baptist + the Virgin Mary were supposedly buried. Really not big on religious history so this kind of attraction isn’t really my thing.
- Selçuk Castle. It’s in the middle of town. You’ll definitely see it even if you don’t go inside.
- Temple of Artemis. One of the original ancient wonders of the world. Now, it’s pretty much nothing but still interesting to know where it was.
Where to Stay in Selçuk
We stayed at Boomerang Hostel + Guesthouse.
It was a *good* experience. It was one of the only “cheap” options we could find in the city. But the breakfast was ok + the dorm room is one massive room with 12-single beds in the basement of the building. Not the most ideal situation but fine for a night or two.
Where to Eat in Selçuk
Amazon Cafe.
Definitely one of my favorite meals I ate in Turkey. Despite the odd name, this little restaurant is unassumingly inside an old house right across from the site of the Temple of Artemis. They make a handful of mezze dishes each night and a few local specialties. This isn’t a cheap meal. Unless you want to just split a mezze which you totally could because portions are huge. But it is a traditional meal. Where dishes are lovingly prepared and done correctly.
Selçuk Pidecisi
Great pide (like a Turkish version of Pizza) for lunch.
Carpouza Cafe Cheap Wine + Beer
I can’t speak for the food here but sitting outside in the sunshine drinking $1.50 glasses of wine + cheap beer is the best way to spend an afternoon. Go before sunset because they do run out of wine.
Sencan Restaurant St. John
This place has some great kebap + you can even get the flaming Kurdish Kebap here. Even though it isn’t technically on the menu.
Selçuk to Istanbul: This chunk of the route can be done in various ways. Most of them are quite painful. The most common…an overnight bus. 12 or so hours for about $17 pp. The buses in Turkey are very comfortable considering. Another option for those who hate the overnight bus is a train + ferry combo. You can hop on a train (or bus) to the port cities of Bursa or Bandirma. From there the public ferry is only a few dollars and offers a scenic journey across the Sea of Marmara to Istanbul. It only departs twice per day, however. 7 AM + 6 PM. They might increase the frequency after COVID. Check the official website for details.
Istanbul (1 day)
Welcome back to Istanbul. You’re two or three weeks in the country have come to an end and you’ll begin to realize now just how little of the country you’ve covered. If you have the time add a few more days in this city to really dive into the food scene. Again just check out my quick guide to the best food + cafes in Istanbul. There’s a reason the city is so beloved by digital nomads.
Map of Turkey’s Turquoise Coast (2 Weeks Itinerary)
This itinerary is just enough to give you a taste of Turkey. The rural villages of the far East are still on our list for exploring and offer a completely different side to the country. Any questions about planning your Turkish itinerary? Feel free to leave a comment or shoot me a message on Instagram.
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