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If we’re calculating by sheer surprise factor, Tsavo East was the Kenyan safari destination that takes the cake. Not everyone ventures out to this park. Which is somewhat unexpected, considering it’s smack dab in the middle of Kenya’s two largest cities. The people who do go out to Tsavo East usually stay for a single night or afternoon game drive…essentially just enough to pause on their way to Mombasa and the Kenyan coast. So, I had low expectations.
But Tsavo East National Park was astoundingly beautiful. You drive through wide-open savannah land with lots of scrubby bushes on classic African red-dirt roads. It’s huge, so obviously it can be quite a challenge to find wildlife if you don’t know what you’re doing, but that’s what this blog post is for. To help you plan the perfect trip to Tsavo East and see maximum wildlife during your stay.
First, A Little History About What Makes Tsavo So Interesting
After WWII but before Kenya’s independence, Tsavo (east and west) were among the first national parks to be established in the country. The well-known David Sheldrick (conservationist + first park warden) had a lot to do with that. You can visit Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Nairobi National Park or, even better, travel up to Reteti Elephant Sanctuary for a similar experience without the colonialism. Anyways, Tsavo wasn’t created to protect its abundant wildlife; it had some wildlife (especially elephants), for sure, but really it was just a huge swath of land that was largely uninhabited by humans, and the colonial government wanted to keep it that way.
Today, it still sits as Kenya’s largest national park. By far. Combined, Tsavo East and Tsavo West contain more than 8,500 square miles of land, which actually makes it one of the largest parks in the world. It’s most famous, however, for its man-eating lions. Back in the late 1800s, trains were all the rage in East Africa. The Brits loved them. A rail line was being constructed from Kenya’s coast all the way to Uganda. This cut vast through the no-man’s-land of Tsavo (which wasn’t a protected area at this time) and was excruciating hard labor for the roughly 7,000 asian laborers the Brits brought to build it. The project took a few years, longer than expected because a group of maneless lions terrorized the workers for 9 months, killing and eating somewhere between 35 and 135 people.
You can read all about it in this book, Man Eaters of Tsavo.
The lions within the park today are descendants of these killers and also, quite uniquely, have no manes.
Why Tsavo East Deserves a Spot on Your Itinerary
Nearly every blog references Tsavo’s red-dusted elephants as THE reason to visit. But I think Tsavo East has so much more to offer than that.
- huge herds of elephants to rival Amboseli
- stunning red clay roads that just FEEL like Africa (as dumb as that may sound)
- some of the most scenic and remote camping offered by Kenya’s parks
- Maneless lions living in huge prides (enough said)
- many locations where you can leave the vehicle and safely watch wildlife from a viewpoint
- the chance to see both cheetah and leopard
- a collection of unique animals you’ll probably only see here (like the fringe-eared oryx)
Add to that the numerous ways to reach this national park (literally train, plane, or automobile), and there is no reason that anyone who comes to Kenya should be skipping Tsavo.
Wildlife in Tsavo East National Park
Here’s a quick list (non-exhaustive) of all the wildlife you have a chance to see in Tsavo East National Park.
- Lions. Duh. There are about 300-400 living in Tsavo East. Only the Maasai Mara ecosystem has more lions.
- Elephants. The red-dusted tuskers are really impressive. Tsavo as a whole has 12,000-15,000 elephants; half are in Tsavo East. This is 10 times the number in Amboseli.
- Other big predators include leopards (along the riverine habitats), cheetahs, spotted hyenas, African wild dogs (generally rare in Kenya), bat-eared foxes (we saw three!!), aardwolves, caracals, and Nile Crocodiles within the two rivers.
- Grazers like Zebra, tiny Dik-dik, massive Eland, the long-necked Gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx, impala, Grant’s gazelle, Lesser and Greater Kudu, waterbuck, hartbeest, and the critically endangered Hirola (found only here) are also common sightings.
- Hippos, Cape Buffalo, and more than 500 bird species live here too.
Tsavo East vs Tsavo West? Which Park is Better?
As you’ll see from my map later on, Tsavo East and Tsavo West are one ecosystem. They literally touch one another, so there are very few differences between the two parks. Yet, I much prefer Tsavo East for a few key reasons. Tsavo West is bushier; it has fewer safari roads and less access. These three things make it quite hard to find wildlife in the park. Tsavo West also has no Hirola. Although, let’s be honest, the odds of you seeing one are unlikely either way.
The one thing that Tsavo West has more of is Black Rhino. But again, with so few of them and all the bushiness, it’s a lot to gamble on.
Tsavo West has very little “self-drive” infrastructure and pretty much only a handful of hotels that are all on the luxury side of the spectrum. Fortunately, if you follow my Kenya Road Trip itinerary, you’ll actually drive right through the heart of Tsavo West on your way to Tsavo East, so you’ll get a taste of the ecosystem (don’t worry, it’s totally free).
Absolute MUST-Visit Stops Inside Tsavo East National Park
There are three spots within Tsavo East National Park that you should visit during your time in the park.
- Mudanda Rock Outcrop. A 1.6 km-long rock overlooking a watering hole. Not only can you get out of your vehicle and chill atop it, but it’s also one of the most reliable wildlife spotting spots.
- Lugard’s Falls/Crocodile Point View. The falls are pretty unimpressive, but the view and crocs are nice!
- Aruba Dam Watering Hole. Great spot to chill and watch for wildlife. Everything congregates at the water sources in Tsavo.
It’s very important to note that ALL the wildlife within Tsavo is along the two rivers I highlight on the map below. Get too far away from them out in the wilds of Tsavo, and you probably won’t see much. I mean, you can always get lucky, but the most reliable places are near water.
If you get snacky in the park, you can pop into Voi Safari Lodge or Ashnil Aruba Lodge for lunch. Keep in mind that both are very fancy hotels, so lunch will be pricey, but it comes with a view.
Where is Tsavo East National Park?
Feels a little late in the post to be establishing this, but here we go.
Tsavo East is right in the middle of Nairobi and Mombasa, in a very rural part of Eastern Kenya. Voi is the epicenter of Tsavo East, and no matter where you’re coming from, you’ll probably pass through Voi at one point during your Tsavo stay.
This map of Kenya shows the many national parks scattered across the country connected by major highways. This doesn’t show any of the private reserves, conservancies, and other protected spaces that aren’t associated with the government in some way. You can see from this map that Tsavo Ecosystem rivals the size of the Serengeti in Tanzania.
A Brief Overview of Entry Gates
There are four different gates of entry into and out of Tsavo East National Park.
- Voi Gate: The main gate. Situated on the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, it provides access to the southwestern side of the park (Voi River).
- Manyani Gate: Also provides access to the western side of the park but is located at the Northern portion of the river. (Galana River)
- Bachuma Gate: The southeast gate. Great for making a beeline to Mombasa. It is on the Mombasa highway, though, so that sucks.
- Sala Gate: Northeastern gate that can take you to the beachy coastline while avoiding the Mombasa highway.
Getting to Tsavo East National Park
There are many ways to reach Tsavo East National Park. Some better than others. But it’s definitely one of the most accessible parks in Kenya despite its remote location.
By Car (for Self-drivers)
We are always self-driving in Kenya (or East Africa in general), and Tsavo East is an excellent park for those looking to go on a self-drive safari. If you are arriving by car, you’ll be taking one of two routes. In either case, you should avoid the Mombasa-Nairobi highway entirely.
This is because the road is an un-scenic death trap of passing trucks. You’ll be stuck in a huge line of cargo trucks and see nothing of the country. It will also take at least twice as long as it says on Google Maps.
- From Nairobi. In this case, I suggest you head for Voi Gate, but rather than go directly on the Mombasa roadway, you cut through near Amboseli and take the route near the Tanzania border through Oloitokitok, Laset, Rombo, and then into West Tsavo National Park out the other side. It’s clearly marked on map.me. Some of the route is dirt and rough so give yourself 5-6 hours drive.
- From Mombasa. In this case, I suggest you drive up the coastline to Malindi and then drive west to enter at Sala Gate. This is a more remote drive and avoids much of the trucks.
Arrive in Style via Luxury Train
Tsavo is kinda famous when it comes to trains. Partially because it’s the only park that has a train station at its front gate, but also because of all the men eaten by lions during its construction.
The Madaraka Express Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) line has a station in Voi, which means you can reach the park without an uncomfortable car or expensive plane ride.
Splurge to Arrive By Air
If you choose to stay at one of the super luxury resorts inside Tsavo East National Park, you might be advised to use a privately chartered airstrip. Many of the hotels have them inside the park. This is obviously the most expensive option for regional travel.
Join a Tour With a Local Guide
These tours all include a visit to Tsavo East National Park with a local guide.
Planning Your Park Visit: Tsavo East Logistics
Let’s go over some quick park logistics, mostly for self-drivers, to help you plan the perfect safari.
Can You Self-Drive in Tsavo East National Park?
Yes. Obviously. But it’s actually one of the easiest parks to self-drive in. The roads are good, the camping sites are stunning, and there’s lots to do/see.
What Time of Year is Best to Visit Tsavo
June to October and January to February offer the best wildlife viewing. In June, the park will be lush from the rainy season, which makes it more beautiful but occasionally more difficult to see wildlife. By Sept/October, the park is at its peak.
How Much Does Tsavo East Cost?
I covered this briefly in the synopsis above, but if you’re a foreigner planning to self-drive, you’ll pay $80 per person for entrance, plus a 500 KES car fee (per day), and $30 per person for the basic campsite. It shakes out to just slightly more than $110 per person for 24-hours.
How Long Should I Plan to Stay in Tsavo East
I stayed in Tsavo East for just 24 hours, and it was absolutely too short. I would recommend a minimum of 2 full days in the park because of the way the park is structured and the wildlife is spread out. This way, you can have one day on each of the rivers within the park and increase the likelihood you’ll see whatever wildlife you’re more searching for. If you can stay a little longer, even better.
Where to Search for Wildlife: Map of Tsavo East National Park
Here’s a quick map of the park and where the wildlife tends to congregate (purple).
The Perfect 2-day Budget-Friendly Self-Drive Safari in Tsavo East
Considering an ideal stay of 2 full days in the park, let’s craft the perfect park itinerary.
Day One: Arrive in Park, Voi River
- Arrive at Voi Gate around 11 AM, ideally no later than 2 PM.
- Spend the entirety of the first day/afternoon/evening on a game drive along the Voi River routes.
- Spend the night at Ndololo Campsite
Day Two: Move to Galana River
- Wake at dawn and safari along the Voi River route now that you have your bearings.
- Mid-morning drive up toward Mudanda Rock.
- Spend some time here at the rock for late breakfast or early lunch if you so choose.
- Mid-day and afternoon game drives all along the Galana River routes here.
- Stay overnight at Galana Private Campsite.
Day Three: Morning Safari and Exit the Park
- Wake up at dawn to bounce around the Galana River side again for a morning safari.
- Be sure to exit the park from Sala Gate at the same time that you entered.
If you are coming from the Mombasa direction, you can just flip this itinerary in reverse.
Where to Stay in Tsavo East National Park
Let’s take a look at the absolute best lodges and campsites within Tsavo East National Park. Obviously, the campsites are the cheap, self-driver options, and the lodges will be more on the luxury side. I’ll also include the cheapest lodge in Tsavo East National Park for budget travelers who aren’t visiting with the ability to camp.
Best Campsites in Tsavo East
While there are a handful of campsites within the park, there are only two that I would absolutely recommend.
These are Ndololo Public Campsite ($30 per person + no need to reserve in advance) or Galana Private Campsite ($50 pp + $80 total reservation fee + need to reserve in advance). Aside from their obviously different planning levels, locations within the park, and price tags, they also attract different people.
Galana is on the Galana River side. It’s also super remote, private, and on the water. A dream campsite overall. But there are no facilities or amenities, which means you’ll need to be self-sufficient. Ndololo is the opposite. Lots of facilities, usually other campers, and on the Voi River. It’s quite easy (and ideal) to sleep at both during your stay.
Best Lodges in Tsavo East National Park
Here are three easy-to-book lodges within the boundaries of (or very near) the national park.
Ashnil Aruba Lodge
Luxury at a reasonable price. Great for its proximity to the dam.
Voi Wildlife Lodge
This resort is actually just outside the boundaries of the national park. Still very easy to access the NP, though.
Voi Safari Lodge
Known for sweeping views of the plains and great wildlife sightings.
Tsavo East National Park was one of my favorite regions to self-drive in Kenya. If you’re looking for the classic red clay roads, scrubland desert, and a chance to see mane-less lions and other incredible wildlife in one of the oldest and least inhabited regions of Kenya, this is a great place to kick off or end your trip in the country. It’s time to stop overlooking this park! Come plan your trip to Tsavo East; I promise you won’t be disappointed.
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