Best Kenya Road Trip Route For a DIY Safari

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There are many ways you can go on safari. You can book an all-inclusive package with a luxury operator and spend thousands (tens of thousands) for an intimate private tour packed with tented camps and game drives. You can join a budget-safari group and make friends along the way, as you hop from park to park with your tents and new companions. Or you can simply drive yourself.

I’ve done variations of all these, in various countries across East Africa, and self-drive is ALWAYS the clear winner for me. Since you’ve ended up here, it seems it might be the winner for you as well. And Kenya is the perfect place to try out a self-driven safari for the first time.

I crafted the perfect 3-week route through Kenya with the help of Road Trip Africa. I’ll also share a few route variations if you only have 2-weeks or if you have a bit more time and can extend your trip by a few days.

But first, let’s cover a few basics.

Can You Self-Drive in Kenya?

Kenya is one of the easiest destinations in Africa for a self-drive safari or road trip. This is because it’s very well connected with a decent road system and there are lots of cities spread across the country to get supplies in. It’s really only as remote as you want it to be. Add to that, the national parks and reserves are relatively small in size, easy to navigate, and jam-packed with wildlife. It’s the perfect first destination for self-drivers planning a greater East African self-drive safari.

Here are a few blog posts to help you get your bearings and determine if self-driving is right for you.

Where To Rent Your Car in Kenya

Assuming you aren’t in Kenya with your own vehicle (although if you are, just continue on to my route), you need to rent a car.

If you’re aiming for a 4×4 vehicle equipped with camping gear, you must choose Road Trip Africa rentals. I’ve used them in 3 different countries and had nothing but an exceptional experience. The Kenya fleet consists of older Land Cruisers that are perfect for the bumpy park roads. They can set it up with camping gear (including a fridge) and one or two rooftop tents with the option to throw in a ground tent as well. This can accommodate up to 6 people quite easily. Although, if I’m being honest, the rooftop tent is the way to go.

One of the perks of renting through them, aside from 24-hour roadside assistance and their well-connected fleet of mechanics, is the camping gear. You’ll be set up with everything you need for the trip, even dish soap.

If you love the idea of crafting your own safari with a small group, but don’t love the idea of forgoing a guide/driver, Road Trip Africa can also set you up with a guide-driver for a daily fee. This way you can do this route, but aren’t responsible for driving yourself.

If you’re on a super tight budget and can’t swing the 4×4 rental prices, you *can* rent a “regular” car in Kenya, pack or buy a ground tent in Nairobi and drive this same circuit. Roads within Kenya are good enough for that, and it will save you quite a bit of money. But there will be places in the parks (and entire parks) that you can’t go to due to rough conditions. But I’ll make a note of whether this is 4×4 required within the trip itinerary so you know what you’ll be missing.

When To Drive This Kenya Road Trip

Timing is everything when it comes to self-drive safaris. Kenya’s dry season runs from June-October with a “short” dry season from Jan-Feb. The wet season is a nightmare of flooding, potentially impassable roads in parks, and a generally unpredictable nature that can make your trip quite challenging. So, you should avoid March, April, May, November, and December unless you WANT the potential for a very adventurous drive.

But there are a few things to consider within the dry season:

1. The Great Migration.
2. Peak vs Shoulder Season Prices.

The Great Migration hits Kenya around July and extends into early September. My hot take is that you should avoid entering the Masaai Mara entirely during this time. Shocking, I know. The Mara Ecosystem gets around 250,000 visitors per year. 90% of those visitors happen in two months. July and August. The Mara River is jam-packed with cars, and that sucks for you AND the animals you’ve come to see. I don’t know about you, but I’m not stoked to see a lion if there are also 40 other cars crammed around it. The Mara ecosystem is filled with animals, and you’re going to see SO MANY during your time there. Yes, even outside of the migration. Skip the chaos, trust me.

As for prices, January to June is considered “low-season” while July to December is “peak-season” for the Maasai Mara ecosystem. During “low-season,” the entrance fee to the parks is $100 per 12-hour slot. During “peak,” it’s $200 per 12-hour slot. Literally double. Road Trip Africa also charges rates based on low, shoulder, and peak season, although each category is only about 10 euros different from one another.

Keeping all this in mind, I think the best times to start this three-week trip are…

• June 15th to June 27th (although all of the first half of June is good too). Sweet spot.
• September/October if you don’t mind paying higher Mara and rental rates.
• January and February as it’s calving season in the Mara, low rates for all, and technically part of the “short dry season”

Starting in late June is great because you can sneak in low-season rates within the Mara and still get peak-season wildlife and weather.

Our Carefully Crafted Day-By-Day Kenya Road Trip Route

This route takes original inspiration from the Bush-to-Beach self-drive tour on Road Trip Africa’s website. But I’ve made some very important changes to the itinerary that, I think, add a lot to the experience.

RTA’s “self-drive tours” are genius for travelers with a slightly larger budget (still way less than other safaris) who want to have tented camps and accommodations booked ahead of time, a customized itinerary with day-to-day road trip notes and stops, and essentially all the “planning aspects” done for them.

But if you love wildlife, are interested in various indigenous tribal cultures, and want to see the breadth of Kenya’s natural landscapes, this is the perfect road trip route for you.

Day One: Arrive in Nairobi

I’m writing this itinerary to cover your entire Kenya Trip, which means the first day will mark your arrival in Nairobi. Unless you have been to Kenya before and are arriving in the early morning hours, I wouldn’t recommend you rent your car the very same day you arrive in Nairobi. You’re going to want to get at least one night of sleep and get a feel for the place before driving or setting off into the bush.

If you have the energy, these are my three favorite Nairobi places:

• Unseen Nairobi.
• Habesha Ethiopian Food.
• Beit es Salam.

Nairobi is a big city, with a serious theft problem. If you’ve been to my blog before, you know I rarely give warnings like this. But every time I visit Nairobi, I meet a half dozen people who have their phones or wallets stolen. Mostly, at night. Be extra cautious in the city. For reference, I’ve never felt as on edge over theft in any other African city.

Make sure you withdraw cash for the first half or so of your trip in Nairobi. Your next opportunity will be Nakuru about 8 days into the journey. We spent quite a lot in cash, as all tips, accommodation, food, and souvenirs will be cash. If you hire a park guide, it will also be cash. For park entrance fees and petrol, we were able to pay with a card.

Where to Stay in Nairobi

I’m sharing two places for you. I’ve stayed at both. The budget-friendly option is Jabulani, which has much more of a hostel vibe and a young crowd. The owner is super sweet, though, and they have a large enclosed parking lot for your car to be delivered to. This is crucial for your road trip. The Elite Luxury Apartments is much nicer and very quiet. It also has security and enclosed parking for car delivery. Both options, while in totally different parts of the city, are around the corner from a Carrefour, which is where you’ll stock up on groceries before you go.

Day Two: Car Rental Pick-Up and Maji Moto Eco-Camp

• Drive Time: 4-5 hours, 200 km
• Route: Tarmac road to Narok via Maai Mahui, road becomes pot-holed tarmac from Narok past Ewaso Ngiro. Turn right at the Maji Moto signpost near Bakitabu. The road will be dirt to the camp.

Road Warning: When you’re leaving Nairobi, you’ll be on the main highway (A8) to get to Maai Mahui. If you let Google direct you, it will take you up to the escarpment viewpoints and then down a very, very steep, rugged dirt road to connect with the town of Maai Mahui. While pretty, this road is so steep that our brakes went out (at the end, thankfully) because of the sheer weight of the vehicle, and it’s most certainly not the easiest way to reach Maai Mahui. You should turn onto A8 South just before the town of Limuru if you want to avoid this precarious route.

Today, you’ll want to get out of Nairobi nice and early because of traffic and head straight to the carrefour nearest you to get any missing essentials and groceries for the trip, because this will be your last chance for a while when it comes to full supermarkets.

Where to Stay: Maji Moto Eco Camp

This is stop one. You’ll need to book in advance, and no, it’s not a typical campsite. You won’t even use your rooftop tent here. This is a tented camp, and I recommend you start here because, as you’re likely jet-legged and just getting your bearings in Kenya, it’s nice to start with a little luxury. Also, an early introduction to the Maasai.

There are a number of options if you prefer booking sites to booking directly. Occasionally, thanks to “Genius status” and other loyalty memberships, you’ll snag a deal.

Day Three: Maji Moto Eco Camp

I loved Maji Moto Eco Camp. Rather than regurgitate all the reasons why here, I’ll send you to my full blog post on Maji Moto.

I recommend that you stay two nights at the property to take full advantage of the included activities and really get to know the Maasai who work and reside there. If you’re looking for my recs on the best Maasai camps to visit in Kenya (that aren’t gimmicky), I’ve got a blog post for that too (*coming soon*), but they are all included on this itinerary as well.

Day Four: Sekenani Gate, Preparing for the Mara

• Drive Time: 1 hour, 65 km
• Route: Backtrack out to the main tarmac road in Bakitabu, turn left onto the main road, then continue along C12 until you hit Sekenani Gate of the Maasai Mara Reserve.

Today, you can soak up the morning at Maji Moto and wait to depart until mid-afternoon. Even 3 PM is totally fine to leave Maji Moto since the drive time is short.

The reason you’re not going to enter the Maasai Mara today is because of their new 12-hour ticketing system. They are the only park in Kenya that operates this way, due to the massive popularity. I’ve written an entire post detailing the ins and outs of the Mara Ecosystem rules (*coming soon*), but in a nutshell, you want to enter the park when the gates open at 6 AM. The only way to do this is to camp just outside the gate and wake up early. So tonight, you’ll camp at one of my favorite camps near the Sekenani entrance.

Quick Note: You always want to enter parks with a full tank of gas. Road Trip Africa trucks have two massive gas tanks. There is a gas station at Sekenani Gate that you should fill up at today before going to camp because it won’t be open in the early morning when you want to enter. This station accepts credit cards.

Be sure to buy your tickets to the Mara Triangle, not to be confused with the Mara Reserve, online here.

If you’re following this exact itinerary, you’ll want to select 1 day in park, public camping: Oloololo public campsite, plus car fees under 6-seater, AND then another 1 day in park, public camping: Eluia Campsite, plus car fees under 6-seater. I recommend staying one night in each site, and because of that you have to buy the tickets separately. Just an annoying error in their system. This way sneaks you an extra few hours of morning safari.

Where to Stay: Oseki Camp

Oseki Camp is tucked just outside the main village of Sekenani and has a huge open-flat enclosed area to camp in. Firewood at their huge fire pit is included, and it’s run by a group of Maasai. They have a bathroom, cold shower, and a kitchen area if needed. They also let us fill our water bottles. We ended up paying 3,000 Ksh per person for our 4-person group.

Day Five: Mara Triangle Safari

Today, you enter the Mara Ecosystem. This means you should be at the gate, passports and tickets ready at 5:50 AM. Early morning is the absolute best time to safari if you want to see predators, and you actually have a long way to go before you reach the Mara Triangle. If you haven’t yet read my Maasai Mara Guide for self-drivers (*coming soon*), now is the time to do so.

Because you are going to transit (for free) across the Mara Reserve, potentially seeing some wildlife along the way, and cross over the Purungat Bridge and enter the Mara Triangle. This is where you are allowed to self-drive and happens to be the part of the ecosystem with the highest predator density. Trust me, this is the best choice for your safari.

Where to Camp: Oloololo Campsite

$30 per person per night. Nice facilities, toilets, etc. Mostly I recommend staying here because it’s lush and lovely and a lot of the wildlife does tend to situate itself here around sundown and sunrise.

Day Six: Mara Triangle Safari Continues

Early bird sees the lion. You’ll be up at dawn to pop around the park all day again today.

Where to Camp: Eluai Public Campsite

$30 per person to camp. Fewer facilities than last night. More isolated in the bush. This campsite is tucked deeper into the park and much less popular because none of the tours come out here. That’s part of the appeal. The other part of the appeal is that while you do need to leave the park STRICTLY by 10 AM the next day, you *could* wake up early and do a meandering game drive through the park to Oloololo Gate where you’re exiting in the morning and no one will be the wiser. Technically speaking, you are supposed to drive “directly” to the gate and be out by 10 AM hard-cutoff. But who is really going to know if you drove directly or not? Just don’t be late.

Day Seven: Mathew and the Maasai Camp

• Drive Time: 15 min, ~5 km from exiting gate
• Route: Exit Oloololo Gate, take a left at the main road to go up the escarpement, then drive a short time to Enkererei Village.

After your extra sneaky morning safari, you’ll be exiting from Oloololo Gate at the back of the Mara Triangle for one last Maasai experience. At the top of the escarpment, just a 10-min drive from the gate, is a Maasai village well worth visiting.

Eat a traditional Maasai dinner, go on a beautiful walk atop the escarpment overlooking the Mara, a morning walk with the giraffes/elephants that come up from the Mara, fireside chats with the Maasai, sleep in a traditional boma, and meet a whole village. It’s beautiful, Mathew is kind and welcoming, and you can also buy (if you wish, it’s not forced) some really pretty beadwork and crafts from the women.

Mathew’s Contact: +254 795 813737

You’ll need to contact Mathew ahead of time, but we stayed overnight and enjoyed all of the above activities for about $50 per person or a $200 total donation to the community.

Where to Stay: You’ll sleep in Mathew’s Maasai home.

This was one of the highlights of the trip for sure. The traditional home made of mud was set up super comfortably, and I slept like a baby all night in camp. While you can just camp outside the boma, this was super unique, and I’m glad we opted to give it a try.

Day Eight: Drive to Nakuru + Evening Safari

• Drive Time: 200 km, 5-6 hours
• Route: From the Maasai camp, you’ll go back down the escarpment toward the Mara again, but this time you’ll continue past the gate on the C13. This part until nearly Narok is all pot-holed dirt but very passable. It’s slow. At Narok, you’ll take the C17 North to Njoro and then to Nakuru town and into the park at the main gate.
• 4×4 Required for Lake Nakuru National Park.

After waking up in the Maasai camp, you’ll want to leave nice and early to allow enough time to drive all the way to Nakuru, enter the national park, and enjoy a short evening game drive as you head to your public campsite. Once inside the park, the drive is an additional 45 or so minutes to reach the campsite. So try not to enter Nakuru any later than 4:30 PM if possible.

You’ll also want to gas up the car before you enter Nakuru Park. Just a reminder.

While you can buy your tickets at the gate, I recommend you buy them on your way to the park or before that online here. Just make sure that you also select camping at Makalia Falls Public Campsite.

Nakuru is well sign-posted, and the fastest way to camp is around the left side of the lake from the main entrance gate. You should always enter from the MAIN gate in Nakuru town and not be tempted to enter one of the Southern park gates that *seem* closer because they are almost always closed and not usable.

Before you go to Nakuru, be sure to read my post on my favorite parks to self-drive in Kenya because it’s actually one of the more challenging ones.

Where to Camp: Makalia Falls Public Campsite

One of my very favorite campsites in Kenya. $30 per person per night. Very ramshackle facilities. In fact, the toilets were locked while we were there and we scavenged wood from the firepits to make a fire in one. But we got a whole herd of Cape Buffalo and a rogue Hyena in camp shortly after dark. This is a plus for me, because I love wildlife in camp, but for some people it would make them extremely uncomfortable. You need to have some wildlife smarts to sleep here. And yes, it is very close to the waterfalls!

Day Nine: Ol Maisor/Laikipia Conservancies

• Drive Time: 3-4 hours, 140 km
• Route: After leaving Nakuru’s Lanet Gate, you’ll head to Nyuhururu (take a detour to see a waterfall if you want), continue up to Rumuruti (A4), and then take the dirt road to Ol Maisor for about 30 min from there. All the roads are in good condition.
• 4×4 Required for Ol Maisor

You’ll spend your morning enjoying a game drive in Lake Nakuru and then stop into the Lion Hill Picnic site for lunch before exiting the park at your 24-hour mark (you only get 24 hours with your ticket). Then you have an opportunity to re-up on supplies, cash, etc in the town of Nakuru. If you have enough time, you can stop off at Thompson Falls in Nyahururu for a 30-minute detour to see one of Kenya’s most impressive waterfalls. Admittedly, the most impressive way to see it is to hike down to the bottom and not just view it from the top (especially since it costs $8 per person), but you might be cutting it a little close on time.

Get gas in Rumuruti before you get too close to Ol Maisor.

Then it’s a straight run to Ol Maisor, which sits on its own conservancy.

Where to Camp: Ol Maisor

Ol Maisor is a sprawling farm, with one of the most comfortable campsites in Kenya here. It’s also only $15 per person, which is a steal for a camp with hot water, a western toilet set-up, firepit, and a huge outdoor hang-out area where you can cook. There are also safari tents here you can rent for 4,000 Kenyan shillings per person if you need a break from the rooftop tents.

Day Ten: Ol Maisor

As I mentioned, Ol Maisor is on a conservancy. While you can just use these two days to reset and relax, you should do at least one game drive with their rangers in the protected area. Every game drive costs $50 for the whole car (not per person), and a guide will go with you. You can track lions, see wild dogs (if you’re super lucky), and lots of other wildlife like elephants.

This is also a great park to try a night safari. Same price. One of the major benefits of these conservancies is how affordable they are when compared to Kenya’s other national parks.

There’s a big reservoir you can swim in, lots of birds to identify if you’re an avid birder, and plenty of wildlife around.

Be sure to book your camp ahead of time here. We tried to stay at the more remote bush camp Ngriki, but it was booked up weeks in advance. You’ll pay the guide in cash, but can pay the rest via an online link.

Day Eleven: Ol Pejeta Conservancy

• Drive Time: 90 km, 3 hours
• Route: You’ll backtrack all the way to Rumuruti, then take the C76 dirt road toward Ol Pejeta Serat Gate. There are parts of this dirt road that are super rutted and rough. In those areas, don’t be afraid to follow the tracks and leave the road entirely.

After a slow morning in Ol Maisor camp, it’s a drive to Ol Pejeta. Get gas again when you go through Rumuruti. There isn’t gas when you approach Ol Pejeta from the back gate.

Ol Pejeta is one of my favorite places in Kenya to see wildlife. This conservancy is truly like nowhere else on earth. Chimps, all three rhino species, stunning wilderness, a great local restaurant, the big 5, and night safari options. I can’t speak highly enough of Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Buy your park tickets and extras like night safari and camping here.

Where to Camp: Ol Lerai Campsite

3,500 Ksh ($27) per person for camping. 5,000 Ksh total for the armed ranger (per night). This site sits in leopard territory right on the river and is my favorite among Ol Pejeta’s many public campsites.

Day Twelve: Ol Pejeta Conservancy

For all the details on planning the perfect visit to Ol Pejeta, read my full guide to the park. (*coming soon*)

Where to Camp: Ol Lerai Campsite

Another night here is recommended.

Day Thirteen: Morning Safari + Drive to Archer’s Post

• Drive Time: 5 hours, 200 km
• Route: Exit Ol Pejeta at Rongai Gate and drive to Nanyuki to re-up on water and supplies (if needed), then continue up the A2 highway past Isiolo to Archer’s Post.

Now here’s where we start to see a large deviation from the Road Trip Africa bush-to-beach route. I’ve previously visited the Samburu region in Kenya and found it to be one of my favorites because of its tribal communities, unique wildlife, and totally different landscape. So rather than turn around and head back toward the Nairobi area, you’re going to continue on up toward the town of Archer’s Post.

Important! You’ll want to gas up in Isiolo. This is the last “real” gas station for a while. Archer’s Post doesn’t have a full-service one or a working ATM most of the time, for that matter. Buffalo Springs Reserve is also the only park in Kenya that is CASH ONLY. So, please get cash out before you go.

This very small town is relatively unexciting, but it acts as the gateway for both Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserve and the easiest access to the Samburu people.

Where to Stay in Archer’s Post: 2 Options

Both are around the same budget, similar levels of convenience, same price, very different vibes.

Day Fourteen: Reteti Elephant Sanctuary

• Drive Time: 6 hours, 200 km
• Route: This is an out-and-back route. 3 hours (ish each way). Drive from Archer’s Post up to Sereolipi on A2 and then take the left turn after the river onto the dirt road. It’s about 1.5 hours on dirt to reach Reteti.
• 4×4 Required to reach Reteti all seasons.

Not enough people know about Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. Or maybe they do know, and they just don’t realize that you can 100% drive there yourself. No need for an expensive domestic flight to their private airstrip or luxury tour. I’ve written an entire blog post about Reteti (*coming soon*) and why it’s one of my fave places to visit.

For starters, it’s 100% Samburu-owned and operated and gets the community involved in conservation. Secondly, you get to watch dozens of baby elephants get fed for the day. Third, you can help feed loads of other animal orphans at the sanctuary. All the animals are released to the wild after they are healthy enough to do so. In fact, there are no fences at the sanctuary at all. It’s totally open for the animals to come and go as they please.

I got to feed a baby Gerenuk, a baby giraffe, zebras, and Kudu. One of my coolest life experiences to date.

You will 100% need a 4×4 to reach Reteti though.

Day Fifteen: Buffalo Springs National Park

• Drive Time: 20 min, 10 km or so
• Route: From Archer’s Post, just backtrack down the A2 to reach the main entrance gate of Buffalo Springs Reserve.

You can choose between Samburu Reserve and Buffalo Springs Reserve today. Either way, you’ll want to enter the park at around 10 AM. The reasons I choose Buffalo Springs over Samburu are simple: the campsite is better, and there is a stunning swimming hole that is the best place to chill mid-day and just watch the grazing wildlife walk nearby. Both parks have the same weird, wonderful wildlife (the Samburu Five: Grevy’s Zebra, Gerenuk, Reticulated Giraffe, Dik Dik, and Kudu). It’s really a matter of preference. I like to enter at 10-11 AM, do a quick drive, hang out at the springs mid-day, do an afternoon game drive, sundowners at your campsite, and then a morning game drive before you have to leave by 10-11 AM tomorrow.

Keep in Mind: When you enter Buffalo Springs, you will need to pay for everything in cash. They don’t have online ticketing. Be sure that you have brought enough cash to pay for park entrance fees and camping in full. Here’s a breakdown of the fees. There is absolutely NO card reader at any entrance, though, despite what online says.

Where to Camp: 4×4 Camp

This is my preferred public campsite in Buffalo Springs. Any of the campsites along the river near the natural swimming hole are great though. I like this one because it’s on the river, has incredible sunsets, and there are almost always elephants in camp preparing to cross the river at sundown.

Day Sixteen: Drive to Sagana

• Drive Time: 6-7 hours, 240 km
• Route: The route today is long, paved, and very straightforward. You’ll take the A2 allllll the way to Sagana as you make the long drive toward Amboseli.

After your morning game drive in Buffalo Springs (or Samburu), I hope you have the podcasts ready. You’re going to take a long, breakless drive on pavement to Sagana. I would have you push alllll the way onward to Amboseli, but that would honestly be an insane thing to do. The drive is just so long. You have to break it up into two days for any semblance of enjoying it.

Where to Stay in Sagana: Jangwani Camp

This is one of the nicest places to camp on the entire list. Not in remoteness, but in facilities. They even had a dishwashing sink. You’ll camp on a carpet of grass near a small waterfall and enjoy hot showers, toilet facilities, and even a restaurant with a pizza oven if you hike up the hill. The only downside? The road to get down to the camping area is crazy steep. Like so steep, I was worried about the brakes again. So steep, that if we needed to stop for some reason, I’m not sure we could have lol. But it’s worth it for a relaxing evening.

Day Seventeen: Drive to Amboseli National Park

• Drive Time: 6-7 hours, 325 km
• Route: Continue down the A2 until Ruiru, where you’ll take the eastern bypass road to B63 (the turn is at the bypass bus station), continue on this road to the Koma-Kenol Road. This is a super straight, perfectly paved new road that acts as a shortcut around Nairobi. It meets up with the C99, and you continue on to Machakos. Here, you’ll hit the Machakos-Makueni Highway and stay on that until it remerges with A8. This is the Mombasa Highway, and it’s the worst road in Kenya. Fortunately, you only have to be on it until Emali when you take C102 to Kimana and then turn onto the single-lane road toward Amboseli Park.

And again, a super long drive awaits you. You’ll bypass Nairobi, skirt around all the freeways you can, because the trucking routes in Kenya are deathtraps. Trust me. It’s literally just lines of trucks passing one another and driving into oncoming traffic. You’ll stay outside the Amboseli gates tonight.

Where to Camp: Manjaro Kimana Campsite

This camp is outside the gates, affordable, near the park, and has resident wildlife, such as genets that come in after dark. There are hot showers, a small restaurant, and views of Kilimanjaro if the weather cooperates. But forewarning, it almost never does.

Day Eighteen: Full Day Amboseli National Park

I, personally, think Amboseli is one of the more overrated parks in Kenya. That’s why I’m only giving it one day. Still, you should have your park tickets purchased ahead of time, enter the park at 6 AM, and spend the whole day on safari. Observation Hill is a great place to stretch your legs and have lunch.

The reason I feel meh about Amboseli is that at this point, you’ve probably seen most of the animals that are part of the Amboseli ecosystem elsewhere. The one thing that it has that’s totally different is the views of Kilimanjaro, and on most days those are obscured by clouds. If it’s a cloudless day though, you’re going to get some insane photos.

Where to Camp: Amboseli Public Campsite

The campsite at Amboseli is nothing to write home about. It’s right by the entrance and usually quite crowded. But it does allow you to stay in the park overnight and have a little sneaky morning safari perhaps. But if you would rather have decent facilities, you can go back to the camp you stayed at last night.

Day Nineteen: Drive to Tsavo East National Park

• Drive Time: 5-6 hours, 200-ish km
• Route: We’re going to totally avoid the Mombasa Highway from here on out. Today, go back out to Kimana, head toward Loitokitok, then follow the dirt road to Rombo. This entire segment is rough dirt road and under construction, so it’s improving as you read this…but expect it to be slow. From Rombo you’ll continue on to Taveta via Ol Girra and Njukini. Then it’s onto a smooth asphalt road that cuts through West Tsavo before reaching Voi.

While today is mostly a drive day, you’ll definitely want to leave early so you can do a little afternoon safari before you set up camp in Tsavo East National Park. You’ll get to transit through Tsavo West Park for free, so it’s kinda like a free safari, and the whole day will be extraordinarily scenic as it circles along the Tanzania border beneath Kilimanjaro.

Don’t forget to get supplies and petrol in Voi. Tsavo East is a huge park with a lot of ground to cover. Buy your tickets before you go.

Tsavo East has two sections that are packed with wildlife. You can read how to spend two days in the park with my self-drive guide (*coming soon*)

Where to Camp: Ndololo Public Campsite

This camp is more developed than the other. It has full facilities, lots of wildlife (including lions roaring at night), and firepits. Just be sure to bring your own firewood. I preferred the camp you’ll stay at tomorrow night, but I think you should stay one night at each just because of how far apart the two regions are from one another.

Day Twenty: Tsavo East National Park

You’ll spend the entire day in Tsavo from sunrise to sunset. Be sure to use the tips in my full Tsavo East guide.

Where to Camp: Galana Special Campsite

This campsite is stunning. It’s remote and private, and you have to book it in advance. It has river views and is in a great location to explore the other side of Tsavo East. There are no facilities here, though.

Day Twenty-One: Mombasa

• Drive Time: 3-4 hours, 200 km
• Route: Skip the Mombasa Highway, please. Instead, exit Sala Gate and follow the B54 route all the way to Malindi on the coast. Then head south to Mombasa on A7.

It’s time to cruise back to Mombasa to drop the rental car with the Road Trip Africa team. This is a one-way rental route after all. But first, you’ll enjoy a morning safari in Tsavo, then depart midday for a long, last drive. Road Trip Africa can pick up the car in Mombasa or Malindi/Watumu if you’re going for some beach time.

Either way, this scenic route is far better than the boring, slow Mombasa Highway.

Where to Stay in Mombasa: Mombasa Comfort House

In the heart of Old Town, this lovely guesthouse sits near the water and, very importantly, near all the best food and attractions in Mombasa. The host is a lovely woman who took great care of us. The only issue was that it was challenging to hand off the car in an alleyway in Old Town, but it’s still doable. There is no parking in almost any of the Mombasa hotels, so you’ll want to get rid of the car asap.

Day Twenty-Two: Mombasa Food Tour & Flight Out

Your final day in Kenya. From here, you can take a domestic flight to Nairobi or nab a scenic train if you’re a train lover.

One thing I highly recommend that you do while in Mombasa (other than stroll Old Town) is to take a food tour with A Chef’s Tour.

They have a daytime tour that goes from 9:30 AM to around 1 PM. They also have an evening tour that goes from 3:30 PM to 7:30 PM.

There are a few reasons I recommend this food tour. One, I went on it and had a lovely time. Bishamba, the local guide, is a Muslim, Mombasan-local who loves her city and knows just how to guide the conversation from food to politics to anything else you might want to know about the storied history of this city. Two, all the food was delicious, and we had no tummy issues. In a city like Mombasa, that’s a feat in itself.

What I Would Add Given The Time…

If you’re one of the lucky few who have your own car in Kenya or have the luxury of time, then these are the destinations I would add to the above itinerary.

• One extra day in Buffalo Springs/Samburu ecosystem. This is because while there is enough time in the itinerary above, it’s going to feel a little rushed in that region. With an extra day, you can go to both parks if you so choose, or have a down day.
• An extra 3-4 days after the Maasai Mara area to add Hell’s Gate National Park, Kisumu, and the scenic Iten drive before continuing to Lake Nakuru.
• An extra week to tack on the beachy regions on the Mombasa coast. You can pop around from Malindi, Diani Beach, and Lamu Island. One reason this is great is that you don’t need to add extra days with the car rental.

If You’re Hoping to Connect this Road Trip with a Larger East African Route…

It’s fairly easy to connect this trip to Uganda or Tanzania (or both). Since Kenya is easier than both those countries in terms of culture and roads, I would recommend starting in Kenya.

I’ve written an entire East Africa road trip route if you need some inspiration.

If You Need To Make It Shorter…

There are a few ways you can alter the above route to make it a little shorter. Maybe not as short as two weeks, but you can surely cut a few days off and still see the country.

• I would skip Amboseli altogether. This saves you two full days. You will have seen most of the wildlife that Amboseli has to offer in other parks. The only thing you’re really missing is views of Kilimanjaro, and those aren’t promised anyway.
• You can shorten your time in Tsavo East by one day.
• If you only stay one night in the Mara and camp at Mathew’s Maasai Village on the second night after safaring all day, then you save a full day and shorten your time significantly with the Maasai community. This saves one full day.
• You can shorten your time at Ol Maisor, Or skip it entirely if you hate nice camps, rest, and have no interest in potentially seeing wild dogs. This saves one or two full days.

All of this will save you 6 full days, and you could do the best of this route in 16 days total, with 15 car-rental days. If you have less time, then I recommend taking a peek at one of Road Trip Africa’s other routes that cover a small swath of the country.

Kenya Self-Drive Safari Tips

Before I leave you to your own devices, you need to know these few travel tips to self-drive successfully in Kenya.

• You need to get yourself a local SIM with Safaricom to have service throughout the country. Don’t forget to bring your passport to the office with you for setup.
• The internet is well connected throughout Kenya. The only part Safaricom didn’t have service was Tsavo East.
• ATMs are in most major cities. The exception is Archer’s Post. Be sure you carry enough cash to get you through.
• Road Trip Africa has you covered with mechanics as needed all over the country; they also have a hotline for you to call if the police give you any trouble. So no issues or delays.
• Petrol stations like Shell and Total Energies are the most reliable for fuel. They also do basic oil changes, sell brake fluid, and do tire repair and pressure. Super handy for just basic fixes.

Kenya is an incredible country for both safari and road-tripping. You’re bound to see loads of wildlife on your trip whether you embark on this full 3-week adventure or choose a smaller 1 to 2 week route. I was worried at first that this was a lengthy itinerary with A LOT of driving, but I could have gone even longer. Hope this helps you plan your dream self-drive safari and Kenya road trip.

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