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I’ve been stubborn enough to visit a lot of “dangerous” places in the world, and usually this reputation is undeserved. Pakistan isn’t riddled with bombs and terrorism, I wasn’t robbed or assaulted in Nairobi, and Colombia is a lot more than drug-dealers and cartels. Let’s be honest, you’re likely going to die in some boring way at home rather than a quick trip in Iraq or anywhere else deemed “risky” by Western media. I found Papua New Guinea to be no different.
And yet, the reputation of Papua New Guinea as a dangerous place persists. From the sounds of the internet, you can consider yourself lucky if you manage to escape the jungle (or cities) without getting robbed, raped, or eaten. Forget that nearly allllll the Pacific islands, Indonesia, and parts of Europe have had a smidge of ceremonial or medicinal cannibalism in their not-too-distant history — somehow Papua New Guinea is the only country still bearing the brand (and fear) of cannibalism today. You can read about cannibalism around the globe in Cannibalism: A Perfectly Natural History.
So, let me officially clear the air. You’re not going to get eaten in PNG. Well, by mosquitoes, unfortunately, but not by tribes.
As for the other fears, let’s talk about them individually and how you can ensure your trip to Papua New Guinea is as safe as possible.
First, What Regions of PNG are the Safest?
Here’s a quick color-coded map of Papua New Guinea with green and orange showcasing the areas where you should exercise the most caution.
Am I Likely to be Murdered in Papua New Guinea?
No.
Cannibalism has been *gone* since the 1960s, and even then, you wouldn’t likely have been murdered.
*There are a few tribes in remote PNG that still practice ritualistic cannibalism for certain ceremonies. By ritualistic cannibalism, I mean the consumption of bones from their ancestors. Not murdering humans.
People often reference warring tribes as a risk when it comes to bodily harm, and again, while this does occasionally happen, it has nothing to do with tourists.
Am I Likely to be Robbed in Papua New Guinea?
Of the concerns on this list, robbery is perhaps the most credible. But it’s far more likely to be just general theft than an actual armed-and-dangerous robbery.
We met a handful of people whose bags were taken or rifled through in their hotel rooms. This sucks. But honestly, there’s not much you can do to prevent it, but bring as few valuables as possible and try to keep them on you.
How to Avoid Theft? Don’t walk around at night, don’t carry a lot of cash at one time, and always make sure your belongings are with you or stored in a major hotel in Port Moresby.
Theft comes from desperation. And if I’m being candid, many people in PNG have had little opportunity for jobs, education, or even basic care, and it doesn’t surprise me that people occasionally turn to theft to get by.
Is Sexual Assault and Violence Against Women a Major Concern in PNG?
If you are a local woman, yes, this is a huge concern. Tourists, again, are pretty much exempt from this fear.
Papua New Guinea has some of the highest rates of violence against women and domestic violence reported in the world, and it is often exacerbated by the excessive drinking that is ubiquitous in PNG.
Avoid all areas with drunk people and stay in groups to ensure safety.
Is Food Poisoning a Major Problem in Papua New Guinea?
I traveled in Papua New Guinea for nearly a month and did not get food poisoning. Obviously, this does not mean that it doesn’t happen. Food insecurity is an issue, and in many places around PNG, you’ll have little to eat besides sweet potatoes and chicken.
You should monitor the news for reports of contaminated fish if you plan to visit the island regions (as deep-sea mining occasionally causes arsenic or cobalt poisoning of fish you might eat), and I would avoid tuna altogether.
Tuna is popular in the islands of PNG, but it is often not stored properly and can lead to histamine poisoning (Scromboid Poisoning), which can cause an anaphylactic reaction. Best not to risk it.
Is Port Moresby a Den of Thievery?
Port Moresby is beloved by no one. Especially not by its residents. It’s consistently ranked among the most dangerous cities in the world. By the numbers, the per capita homicide rate is reported at 80 in 100,000. Which is terrifyingly high.
So I’m not going to tell you Port Moresby is a lovely, safe city worth exploring. But it’s not likely to be all that dangerous to you as a tourist. On the map above, I have put it as an Orange “exercise caution” just because of all the theft, and on the off chance that you do go out exploring in the city.
I wrote a guide on Port Moresby and how to have the perfect short layover in the city. Trust me, you’ll need it.
Rapes, robberies, and murders happen nearly exclusively in the informal settlements on the outskirts of Port Moresby. Impoverished districts where people live in a state of desperation. Tourists visit a very different part of town, if they even venture far outside their hotels at all. And you shouldn’t go anywhere after dark. Even the hotel shuttles stop after 9 PM and don’t start up until 4 AM when the car-jackers have gone to sleep. (Mostly kidding).
You can, of course, visit the national museum (very close to the airport), the beach (very close to some of the nicest hotels), or simply relax in the only luxurious hotels in the country. A/C and wifi — what more could you need after a long week in Sepik or the highlands?
But truthfully, while Port Moresby is somewhat sketchy (albeit pretty clean and empty), you won’t be spending much time here if you plan your itinerary well.
Is Papua New Guinea a Safe Place for Solo Females to Independently Travel?
If I were a solo female, I would have some reservations about traveling independently in Papua New Guinea. The truth is, violence against women is somewhat normalized in PNG, drinking is a serious problem that can make situations worse, and unlike many destinations in Asia, people are not as willing to jump in and help you. Everyone here has their own shit to deal with.
That being said, if you hire a trusted guide, you’re going to be fine. Just be sure to read my post on how to find a trustworthy guide in PNG.
Actual Concerns for Travel in Papua New Guinea
Here are some things you should be aware of in Papua New Guinea that can affect your safety.
1. Medical care.
If you happen to fall ill or hurt yourself in Papua New Guinea, the only hospitals fully equipped to help you are in Port Moresby. The Mount Hagen and Goroka facilities are acceptable but still not great. Kavieng, Wewak, or anywhere else? Absolutely grim. No medicine, no doctor on call, nada.
You should travel with good insurance that covers evacuation and an excellent med kit. Pop over to my Papua New Guinea packing list for a peek into what I bring to PNG. (*coming soon*)
2. Theft when you’re careless (or unlucky).
The most common theft is simple pick-pocketing on buses and PMV rideshares, or camera and valuable snatching from a hotel room. Or leaving gear with a guide company/guesthouse that isn’t part of a major hotel chain and has a locked baggage room.
The best way to avoid this happening to you is to split up your valuables, don’t show them off, and always keep your bags in secure places.
3. “Renegotiation” by unscrupulous guides.
I wrote a whole blog post on finding reputable guides because of this very problem. While it isn’t technically your run-of-the-mill theft, it can certainly feel like it. Essentially, your guide gets halfway through the trip you agreed upon and then tells you that he’s actually spent all the money and you’ll need to pay him more now.
This is essentially extortion/theft/whatever you want to call it. Read my post on how to find a guide who won’t do it. (*coming soon*)
4. Mosquito-borne disease
Malaria, Zika, Dengue, you name it, PNG’s got it. Protect yourself with bug spray and Malarone, and you’ll be fine.
I prefer to use Ben’s 30 DEET mosquito and tick spray.
5. HIV
For 99% of travelers, this is a non-issue. But if you’re thinking of having some unprotected sex or getting scarification done with the crocodile tribe (very hard to achieve anyway)— think again. You should also ensure that if you get medical treatment anywhere, they use a fresh needle.
6. Getting in over your head
I consider myself a very experienced independent traveler. I almost never use guides, I don’t book tours, and we’ve visited loads of countries on very nearly all continents. So when I say Papua New Guinea is the most challenging place to travel independently, I hope you take it with some weight.
You can do it though.
I wrote a guide on the best way to independently travel in PNG if you still want the full cultural experiences of the highlands and Sepik. (*coming soon*)
But you MUST be chill, laid-back, flexible, calm, and have plenty of time to spare. You’ll need to be very experienced and willing to be uncomfortable. People will not jump in to help you when you’re lost/confused/etc like they would in many places around the world.
You will need to be self-sufficient. Read my guide on what it’s like to travel in Papua New Guinea, and then really think hard if it sounds like the trip for you. (*coming soon*)
7. Natural disasters and landslides
This is a volatile part of the world, and nature happens. Nothing to do about it. The highlands experience occasional landslides that delay road travel, and the islands have lots of undersea volcanoes that sometimes pop off.
Cyclones, typhoons, monsoons, etc.
Just visit during the right time of year and monitor the news, and you’ll be fine.
8. Highway robbery.
I’m including this because I know two people this happened to, even if it didn’t happen to me personally.
Essentially, they were traveling by PMV (bus) in the highlands and were stopped on the road by people brandishing machetes. Angrily, they banged on the doors demanding money from each passenger, and everyone gave 5-10 kina, and then the bus moved on. They essentially were robbed, but there is a little more to the story.
What happens is the PMV buses drive like maniacs and occasionally kill someone on the road. Then, tribes in retaliation will stop ALL PMVs and demand money to pay for the funerals and/or hospital expenses of their loved ones. It’s technically robbery, but if you understood the situation, you probably wouldn’t mind handing over the few dollars. Either way, it’s a scary situation and not ideal. It’s also super rare.
Is Papua New Guinea a Safe Place to Travel?
I planned a trip to Papua New Guinea and visited, so yes, in my opinion, it is a safe place to travel.
Nowhere on earth is a totally safe place to travel. But I would be cavalier to suggest that PNG doesn’t have its fair share of things to watch out for. It’s one of the most challenging travel destinations in the world. But the things that you think you have to fear are very, very unlikely.
Here are a few tips to help ensure your trip is as safe as possible.
Tips For How To Be Safe in Papua New Guinea
- Don’t walk around after dark.
- Keep your cash and valuables stashed.
- Don’t show off your fancy things.
- Hire a local guide.
- Go with a group tour rather than solo or independently traveling.
- Come prepared and with a proper med kit.
- Opt for the best insurance.
- Buy a data plan and a local SIM.
- Choose private transport rather than PMV.
Papua New Guinea can be a frustrating, exhausting, and expensive place to travel. But it’s not inherently a dangerous destination. In my opinion, Australia has used its colonial power to shape the view of PNG in Western media and portrayed it so poorly (all while robbing the country blind of its natural resources itself). You can travel here safely and experience one of the last truly culturally immersive countries in the world.
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