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Summary: This blog is designed to help travelers have the best (and most prepared) visit to Yellowstone National Park possible in the Wintertime without the help of tour guides. Most advice is from the Gardiner or North Entrance of the park.
Yellowstone spans more than 2.2 million acres of wilderness and is without a doubt one of my favorite national parks to visit in the United States. We visited more than 35 of them when we embarked on a year-long road trip in our campervan.
What I love about Yellowstone National Park is the wildlife. And arguably, the wildlife experiences get even better in the cold months of winter. Most visitors to the park aren’t there for long hikes through the alpine or even the boiling geysers and scenic vistas, we’re all here for a chance to spot some unique Montana wildlife up close. Bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly bears, coyotes, and if you’re lucky…the ever-elusive Yellowstone wolf.
Yellowstone is so large it spreads across Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho. Because of this, the park has 5 entrances but we’ll be focusing on the Northern or Gardiner Entrance since it is the only one (fully) open during the winter time.
Here’s everything you need to know to plan the perfect visit to Yellowstone in the winter.
Why Visit Yellowstone in the Winter
Let’s be honest. Winter travel is not comfortable. And traveling in Montana in the winter is no joke. So why, embark on a journey through one of the harshest winter climates to a National Park?
Winter in Yellowstone offers up a true winter wonderland of scenery and far fewer visitors than the comfortable summer months. FAR FEWER. We saw only a handful of other people inside the park during our wintertime visit, while summer tourists clog the roads in endless snares of traffic jams. If peace and quiet is what you’re looking for, this is where you’ll find it.
You’ll also have a better chance of spotting the Yellowstone Wolves of Lamar Valley. In the winter, the wolves descend on the park and hunt throughout the daylight hours. This is the habitat they are built for and serious wolf-watchers know this is the only time to see them in Yellowstone.
We’re calling winter in Yellowstone roughly December through mid-March. During these months all the information below holds true.
Your Guide to Road-Tripping Yellowstone in Winter
While there are several airports in the area of Yellowstone, the vast majority of visitors to the park drive themselves. This is the most recommended way to visit in any month. You will have a very difficult time getting around without a fully guided tour if you don’t have your own vehicle.
We drove from Seattle, WA to Missoula, MT onward to Yellowstone National Park and down through the hoodoos of Utah’s National Parks into the deserts of California on this particular winter road trip. In total, it was about 3,000 miles of travel but totally worth it to see so many of the West Coasts parks in off-season.
Is Yellowstone Open in The Wintertime?
Yes.
But not totally. This is where people get a little confused. Yellowstone National Park gets a gargantuan load of snow and high winds. Because of this, the plows can’t keep up within the huge park. So, the park service decided to close the park to traffic except for the north road between Gardiner and Cooke City.
This stretch of roadway (and both park entrances) are the only parts of the park you can access with a vehicle. Fortunately, it’s also where the wolves hang out.
You will need to enter the park through the Gardiner Entrance. The only other entrance that is open is Cooke City and unfortunately, the pass on the other side of Cooke City is almost always closed to thru traffic in the winter months as well.
You can visit the rest of the part if you choose to do so but you’ll need snowshoes, skis, or hired tour guides to help you traverse the snowy volatile landscape.
Map of Yellowstone Roads Open in the Winter
Do You Need A Parks Pass For Yellowstone in the Winter?
You do need a park pass in the wintertime.
I always recommend the America the Beautiful Pass if you plan to visit 3 US National Parks in the span of 1-year because it saves you money.
While you can get the pass at REI or the national parks websites online, I’ve always found it easier to buy it at the park gate itself. They are always well-stocked and you pay a flat fee of $80 without added shipping costs.
The Gardiner Park entrance opens very early in the wintertime and will be there to check your pass or sell you one!
Can You Visit Yellowstone in the Winter on a Budget?
As you are about to see, there is quite a lot you can do in Yellowstone during the winter months. Unfortunately, most of the attractions and nice places to stay are wildly expensive. You can visit Yellowstone for cheap in the winter but the trips overall will look very different from a luxury one.
Budget Friendly Yellowstone Trip
You drive yourself through the Gardiner entrance to search for wildlife and don’t partake in any tours. You choose a place to stay that is super basic and likely underwhelming but will keep you warm for the night. You should also plan on cooking several of your own meals and eating just once or twice in the town of Gardiner.
Luxury Yellowstone Trip
If this is a bucketlist trip for you and you are ready to splurge a little there are plenty of opportunities for you to do so. You can opt for one of the many overland tours into the park and stay at The Sage Lodge (more details below) for the most comfortable and scenic stay in the Yellowstone area.
Things to Do in Yellowstone in the Winter
1. Wolf Watch
Wolves are native to Yellowstone National Park. But thanks to overhunting and the government’s push to exterminate wolves in the lower 48 back in the 1920s, the Yellowstone Wolf is a reintroduced and heavily monitored species. There are now about 500 of them in the park at last count.
This is the most popular winter activity in Yellowstone National Park. The best way to spot wolves is by driving the road from Gardiner to Cooke City in the morning and evening when wolves are at their most active. You’ll see wolf-spotting tours doing the same.
Quick Tips for Spotting the Lamar Valley Wolves
- Bring binoculars, a spotting scope, or an insane zoom lens.
- Drive during the morning and evening hours near sunrise and sunset when wolves are most active.
- If you come across stopped people, you should stop too. Usually, this means they see something.
I cover later why I don’t think you need to join a wolf-watching tour in the Lamar Valley but if you insist or don’t have your own vehicle, I recommend the full-day wildlife tour at the Sage Lodge or from Yellowstone Guidelines.
2. Visit Mammoth Hot Springs
While Ol’Faithful and Grand Prismatic are locked within the snowy confines of the park, Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the few sights still open to all visitors.
You can still visit the famous park geysers but you’ll need to arrange a tour.
3. Join a Snowshoe or Cross-Country Ski Tour
Or if you’re a badass who feels competent to explore the backcountry yourself go right ahead. I’ve gone ahead and linked some winter tours below that are on the more affordable side. Most attractions in Yellowstone in Winter are crazy expensive.
4. Take a Snowmobile or Snowcoach to Ol’Faithful
You can fully access the park with the help of these vehicles. Snowcoaches are essentially massive 4x4s that can carry you over the top of the dense Yellowstone snow deeper into the park. Keep in mind though that most of these tours leave from West Yellowstone and Jackson. This is not near the Gardiner, Montana entrance.
There are a few other companies that DO operate snowcoach tours out of the North Entrance or Gardiner and the most highly recommended is Yellowstone Vacations.
5. Enjoy the Winter Wonderland Landscapes
Most of the USA does not get a true winter like this. The thick blanket of white snow and heavy green tree boughs were beautiful even without the wildlife. If you want to experience WINTER this is the perfect trip to do so.
6. Soak in the Nearby Hot Springs
You CANNOT soak in any of the picturesque hot springs inside Yellowstone because you will literally boil alive. So don’t try it. But there are a few hot spring locations surrounding Yellowstone National Park that are wonderful to visit in the winter.
Yellowstone Hot Springs is a developed hot spring (not a natural hidden one) just 10 minutes from the park and is the most accessible of the hot springs in the area. You can enjoy the hot spring-fed tubs with mountain views year-round.
Renova Hot Springs is MUCH more my style and free to visit because it’s a 100% natural hot spring. It’s a little further North from Yellowstone National Park but depending on where you are staying could be well worth a little visit. Keep in mind that it’s pretty common for hot-spring goers to bathe in the nude in natural hot springs around the United States.
7. Go Dog-Sledding Near Yellowstone
While you can’t actually go dog-sledding inside Yellowstone National Park you can get pulled by a team of furry friends near the park. Yellowstone Dog Sled Adventures operates out of Big Sky Montana and organizes dog-sledding in the area. Be sure to bring some hand warmers because you can expect below-freezing temps!
Yellowstone Winter Lodging
Let’s talk about where to stay in and near Yellowstone in the Winter.
I am going to level with you. Accommodation in Yellowstone in the Winter is not going to be cheap. Lodging in Yellowstone in general is not cheap. Factor in that camping in these frigid conditions is practically impossible, and you’ll see that you’re options are limited.
But if you are looking for a splurge moment, I’ve got one for you.
Sage Lodge (Pray, Montana)
This property is STUNNING. It sits on an old ranch just 30 minutes from the Gardiner Entrance of Yellowstone National Park. From the massive picture windows in the communal front lobby, you have an unobstructed view of the prominent Emigrant Peak, usually dusted with snow at this time of year. They have multiple outdoor hot tubs for a scenic soak, a spa to treat yourself, and two dining experiences to give you exceptional cuisine even in this little food desert of Montana.
We stayed here for two days and it really was the perfect place to crash and relax after a long day of looking at wolves in the park. They also offer tons of tours (including wolf-watching) and offer free snowshoes to carry you through the winter landscape.
Motels are really shit in America. I’ve slept in $3 beds in India, $4 rooms in Sri Lanka or Myanmar, and most were better kept than America’s crappy hotel scene. That being said, I totally understand if a luxury lodge isn’t in your budget. Here are the three cheapest options within a relatively close distance to the park.
Two hotels operate INSIDE the park during the winter months (and one campground is open for the truly intrepid), but they are quite costly and you’ll need to book way in advance. Old Faithful Snowlodge & Cabins is additionally difficult because it’s only accessible via snowcoach.
How Bad Are the Driving Conditions?
Understandably, this is typically the biggest concern for people considering traveling to Yellowstone in the Winter. The roads in and around Yellowstone were actually very well paved and it was so cold during our stay that black ice wasn’t really a problem (that usually occurs around 30 degrees F & while we were there it was NEGATIVE 30 degrees F).
If you have driven at all in winter conditions before, I think you would be fine pending some kind of crazy snowstorm. Keep an eye on the forecast.
Do You Need a Wolf Watching Tour or a Wildlife Tour?
I don’t think you do for several reasons.
Most wildlife tours are done in large vans or buses and take you along the same stretch of road that you could drive yourself. Granted, the wildlife specialist in the vehicle might be better at spotting wildlife than you but if it’s that far away…does it really matter?
The tours DO have spotting scopes to see the wolves at a distance which is cool, but not worth the money in my opinion.
That being said, most tours are between $600 – $1200 for two people. So, you do the math. Sage Lodge offers these tours as well if you decide to splurge on one.
Instead, I recommend you drive the park yourself and if you see the tours or other people stopped on the road then you can assume they found something. Many people were more than happy to share their spotting scopes with fellow tourists anyway. Or if you are smart you have your own.
Both wolves that we saw we actually saw while we were alone on the road and they just happened to be crossing by. This, for me, was way cooler than simply seeing them at a distance with a spotting scope.
Winter in Yellowstone Packing List
If you’ve actually read the entire post thus far, you’ll see that it gets down to -40 degrees in Yellowstone (if you’re unlucky). Here are the essentials you need to bring on a Yellowstone Winter Road Trip.
- Massive Parka.
- Many thermal layers. Seriously just bring all the winter clothes you have. Avoid cotton if you can and instead opt for Merino wool.
- Spotting Scope or binoculars. This will allow you to see the wildlife at a distance.
- Snacks. Before you go into the park bring lots of water and snacks because there is NOTHING inside and you’ll want to spend many hours looking for the wolves.
- Emergency kit. Blankets and other items to keep you warm and alive in case your car dies or something inside the park.
- America the Beautiful or other park pass.
- A plan. You NEED to pre-book accommodation here. Many of the hotels fill up and others are simply not open during this time of year.
- Sunglasses for that snow glare.
Quick Tips for Visiting Yellowstone in the Winter
- Enter the park at around sunrise (7-ish) in the winter. Early morning and sunset are the best time to see wolves.
- Be sure to bring a good zoom lens or a spotting scope. Animals are often further off the road than the eye can see.
- Bring lots of your own snacks and food to this area. There isn’t much around the park and there is NOTHING inside Yellowstone in the winter.
- Go to Wonderland Cafe in Gardiner at least once. Wonderland Cafe is the rare foodie gem in the Yellowstone area. Get the chili. You won’t be disappointed.
- Don’t get your hopes up for LOTS of wildlife. There is significantly less wildlife close to the road
- Gas up. There are limited amenities in the park (as I mentioned) be sure to make sure you enter with a full tank of gas.
- You won’t have cell service. Don’t expect it inside the park.
- Protect your batteries! The frigid cold zaps both phone and camera batteries quickly so keep them warm in your pockets and keep a charger handy.
Is it Worth Going to Yellowstone in the Winter?
I loved our Yellowstone wintertime adventure. We saw wolves twice. We also saw coyotes, elk, big horn sheep, bison, and lots of deer. But it’s a very different visit than Yellowstone in the summer months. Yellowstone in the summer (or Fall/Spring) allows for hiking, more sightseeing, and a true abundance of animals. The winter is much more harsh.
But in some ways that’s what made a visit in the winter all the more exciting. I highly suggest you experience the park at both extremes and decide for yourself if winter in Yellowstone is for you.
Continue Your Road Trip to Montana
Montana is one of my favorite US states to travel in. Since you’re already here and driving, I can assume you’re going to venture deeper into the state. Glacier National Park is only a few hours away, as well as Missoula and Bozeman. Both towns are popular with outdoor enthusiasts.
Where to Stay in Montana
We stayed in two really wonderful Montana hotels that I have to mention here. They are actually sister properties in Bozeman and Missoula and made our stay in both cities easy and enjoyable.
The small boutique chain takes historic buildings in the region and restores them into lovely minimalist outdoor-themed hotels. They have local coffee shops on site and support local artists by featuring them on their walls. I was really impressed with the design of the hotels/motels and now they will be my go-to Montana stay.
Continue Your Road Trip to Utah
Onward to Utah!
Read my full guide to road-tripping Utah’s Parks here. We visited 5 incredible national parks as well as got to experience a little city life in Salt Lake City.
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