The Biggest Off-the-Beaten-Path Backpacker Guide to Thailand (Maps & Insider Tips)

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I’ve found myself strolling the chaotic streets of Thailand 5 times in the last 4 years–unearthing hidden gem attractions, perusing local markets, & getting to know the unexplored wilderness of Thailand’s most remote National Parks. I’ve also visited the ornate temples of Bangkok, spent some time with Thailand’s gentle giants & had a drunken night or two on Khao San road. Travel, like life, is all about balance. So, why do we keep returning? Because Thailand is so much more than meet the eye.

Thailand is a never-ending fountain of fascinating attractions. Every trip back I end up leaving with 5 more cities added to my bucket list. Alongside Indonesia, it’s the only country I return to again & again. And although I wouldn’t call myself an ‘expert’, I’m at least an aficionado of all things Thai.

Getting Off-The-Beaten-Path in Thailand

Thailand is often a first-trip. Or at least the first trip into the “developing” world. (Although, nowadays Thailand is very much developed). This means many blogs and guides on Thailand don’t dig very far beneath the surface. And I don’t need to be told for the 1,000th time to visit the Grand Palace in Bangkok. (Side note: Contrary to popular opinion, I would advise you to skip the Grand Palace, but more on that later.)

What I wanted was an interesting guide to Thailand.

A guide that recommended off-the-beaten-path cities and ornate temples no traveler has heard of. I wanted a Thai experience that wasn’t the same as every other backpacker on the planet.

So I decided to write one.

This guide covers it all. The food, the temples, the cities, and the excursions that uncover the real ‘Siam‘ and show you the best of Thailand. (But don’t worry, I won’t skip over the highly traversed destinations if they are worth visiting.)

The Big Myth

There’s this garbage idea floating about the backpacker community that Thailand is a “basic” destination. That only newbie travelers or party hostel hoppers love Thailand. They claim Thailand is too touristy, too crowded, and with that has lost its authenticity.

Which is all just a load of bullshit.

A fellow long-term traveler we met in Myanmar actually had the audacity to state that she was visiting “everywhere except Thailand” on her round-the-world excursion (cue dramatic eye-roll).

Yes, Thailand sees 39 million tourists a year. In fact, Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok was actually the busiest airport in the world last year. Yes, there are places swarmed with tourists catered to obnoxious party backpackers or high-rolling resort-goers. But to discount an entire country because of a few overtouristed cities is doing a huge disservice to yourself.

My recommendations will take you outside the banana pancake trail (nickname for the typical traveler route in Asia), and prove that Thailand is STILL a country brimming with cultural experiences and authentic adventures. Getting off-the-beaten-path in Thailand is more than possible.

Thailand’s infrastructure is impeccable. Making it the easiest country to navigate & get off-the-beaten-path. A do-able destination even for beginners.

Best Time to Go

That depends on if you want crowds or perfect weather. There’s really no wrong time of year to visit Thailand. The rainy season can be dry & beautiful with sporadic showers in the late afternoon while the dry season is the most popular time of year to visit.

As with most destinations, I recommend the shoulder season. You get fewer tourists & better weather.

Interested in visiting during a local festival? Thailand has loads of really unique festivals celebrated country-wide and some are worth scheduling your visit to the country around. & although festivals aren’t really off-the-beaten-path attractions in Thailand they are a great way to easily connect with the local customs.

• Songkran (April) The water festival. A country-wide water fight to help ring in the coming years rainy season.
• Yi Peng (November) Lantern Festival. The most famous festival in Thailand. Best celebrated in Chiang Mai.
• Phi Ta Khon (June) The Ghost festival.
• Wing Kwai (November) The Water Buffalo Racing festival.

Visa Information

Most travelers to Thailand won’t require a visa. Those of us from the U.S., U.K., & Australia are allowed 30 days visa-free. You can check if you are visa-exempt here. The only catch is that you need proof of onward travel out of the country. This usually only applies when you’re entering the country by air.

Budget Travel Tip: If you don’t yet have a ticket leaving Thailand, book the cheapest 100% refundable flight on Expedia just before you arrive at the airport and then cancel once you’ve passed security.

Other Vital Info to Know Before You Go

• The currency is Thai Baht. Roughly 30 Baht to the dollar. If anyone tries to sell you something in USD they are likely overcharging you.

• English is widely spoken in Thailand. Don’t stress about communication. But it’s always nice to learn a few basic words before you go. (Kah Poon Kahh *Thank you* & Wat = Temple)

• ATM’s in Thailand charge a flat fee of 200 baht for every use. If you feel you can keep track of it it’s best to withdraw as much money as possible in one go. The Gold ATMs let you pull out $1,000 USD at one time.

• It’s gotten better over the years but scams in Thailand are prevalent. For tips on how to avoid getting scammed in Southeast Asia check out my guide.

• Haggling is the norm. For everything from T-shirts to tuk-tuks, if the price isn’t clearly labeled the price is up for deliberation.

Transportation in Thailand

Thailand is a well-developed country. This means your transportation options are plentiful. Local buses, taxis, trains, tuk-tuks, tourist vans, & long-tail ferries are available all over the country.

Pro-Tip: Always book your bus & train tickets at the station. Tour agencies & hostels take a commission & you won’t be paying the cheapest price.

For local transport try to catch a bus whenever possible. A typical ride will set you back about 8-16 Baht. Tuk-Tuks are worth a ride at least once. They are the more expensive transport option but it’s just part of the quintessential Thailand experience.

For long routes- opt for trains. Overnight trains range from 3rd-class hard seats to 1st-class sleeper compartments with A/C. Below I lay them out from best to worst. I’ve done the 14-hour route to Chiang Mai from Bangkok in 3rd class seats….it was miserable. Opt for at least a sleeper berth on overnight trains.

Pro-Tip: Never agree to a taxi without a meter. Metered taxies are the only way to avoid one of the most common scams in Thailand.

Thailand Backpacker Guide By City

Here’s a comprehensive guide to all the cities worth visiting in Thailand & why. I’ll cover the bucketlist attractions worth visiting & all the off-the-beaten-path destinations that will make you fall in love with Thailand.

Bangkok

I have an ongoing love affair with Bangkok. It’s without question my favorite city in the world. I’ll be honest it wasn’t love at first sight, but the city grows on you. Every corner holds opulent temples mix-matched with modern skyscrapers, the food unrivaled, and it’s streets hold just the right amount of chaos to keep them interesting.

Expect a full guide to Bangkok & all it’s best neighborhoods coming soon. Budget transportation, trendy local neighborhoods, & how to fall in love with this seemingly dirty grungy city.

Best of Bangkok

Marvel at Thailand’s Best & Most Underrated Temples.

Spend any amount of time in Southeast Asia & you’ll see more than your fair share of ornate bejeweled temples. But Thailand with nearly 41,000 Buddhist temples, & Bangkok in particular, is home to some of the most impressive. These are the temples I recommend if you want to be truly dazzled.

• Wat Saket: The Golden Mount ($1.33/ person)

• Wat Pho: Temple of the Reclining Buddha ($6.25/ person)

Slip around the corner from Wat Pho & you’ll be surrounded on all sides by colorful hanging garlands of fresh flowers. Pak Khlong Talad is one of the largest fresh flower markets in Thailand & well worth a wander.

• Wat Ratchanatdaram ($0.65/ person)

• Wat Arun: Temple of the Dawn ($3/ person)

The real magic of Wat Arun is actually found on the opposite side of the Chao Phraya river. Watch the stupa glow in the warm morning light of dawn or wait until sunset & watch the red sun disappear behind its horizon. No need to pay the entry fee.

• Wat Benjamabhopit: The Marble Temple ($0.65/ person)

• The Grand Palace or Wat Phra Kaew ($15.50/ person)

Should you go to the Grand Palace? Here’s where my opinion becomes unpopular. Often listed as the #1 thing to do in Bangkok & touted as the “best temple in Bangkok” on essentially every blog written about the city—I think it’s overrated. Sure, it’s massive & ornate & well preserved & a great look at the many kinds of Thai architectural styles. BUT it’s also insanely crowded at all times of day, swelteringly hot (I think Bangkok’s heat is actually radiating from the dazzling gemstones here) & expensive at $15.50/ person. It’s more museum than actual temple so if that’s your style give it a look but I wouldn’t say it’s an absolute must-see.

Shop at Bangkok’s World Renowned Markets.

Bangkok is the king of massive shopping malls. Siam Center, Icon Siam, MBK, Siam Paragon, Central World—all are massive modern malls where you’ll find everything from phone chargers to genuine Prada stores to knock-off jerseys. But the outdoor street markets are what really make Bangkok special. Most of my evenings in Thailand were spent wandering from stall to stall people watching & snacking on street food. These are my favorites.

Chatuchak Weekend Market

15,000 stalls & one of the world’s largest shopping markets it’s popular among locals & tourists alike. Only open Saturday & Sunday.

Talat Rot Fai: Srinakarin

There are two different Talat Rot Fai markets, so don’t get confused. This one is known for its vintage antiques & is super popular among young trendy Thai locals. Thurs-Sun: 5 pm to 1 am.

Sampeng Market

Located in the heart of Chinatown, this is the best window-shopping market. Narrow alleyways with unidentifiable goods practically bursting with people. Daily: 9 am – 6pm.

Taling Chan Weekend Floating Market

Floating markets in Thailand can be SUPER touristy & a giant rip off if you’re not vigilant. I once was conned into a $40 taxi (round-trip) to Damoen Saduak Market (way out of town) only to be told once I got there that he expected another $100 for a ride into the market on the boat. Taling Chan however still has some of its original charms. & it is pretty neat to watch the small boats filled with veggies or serving fried fish crowd up the river.

The Infamous Khao San Road

Khao San is brimming with drunken young Aussie’s stumbling about pouring liquor down their throats by the bucketful. Scorpions are skewered & served on sticks, ice-cold Chang served in towers from scantily clad bar girls. But it makes for some great people-watching.

Patpong or Soy Cowboy

What begins as an innocent night on Khao San often leads here. The epicenter of sex tourism in Thailand. Neon flashing lights advertising ping pong shows and other debaucherous activities. Bars are tended by ladyboys dressed to the nines & naked women dance on the counters. Nothing good happens here.

Take a Day to Visit Koh Kret. An Island within a City.

Frequently visited by Thai locals this little island sits in the Chao Phraya River just North of Bangkok. It’s famous for pottery from the Mon people’s but its markets and streets make it an interesting day trip for travelers looking to see something different.

Sundowner Cocktails at a Skybar

You’ll never understand just how huge Bangkok is until you view it from above. Bangkok’s most stunning cocktail lounges are perched at 50+ stories high. Zoom Bar has happy hour until 8 PM where you can get 2 cocktails for $6. Red Sky Bar has a great happy hour until 7 PM as well.

Super Budget Alternative: Grab a few bottles of Thai Whiskey from your local 7/11 & climb the Sathorn Unique Condominium. It’s a long-abandoned skyscraper where you can get the sky bar views without the price tag. Just be careful since it’s half-built & not maintained.

Watch a Muay Thai Fight Night

Even if you’re idea of a perfect evening out doesn’t include Thai men beating one another senseless you can’t leave Thailand without watching a Muay Thai fight. Unlike most arena’s where tickets start at $25+, Channel 7 Boxing Stadium packs the audience for their televised shows. Show up at 12-1 PM & seats are free. Dress code is enforced.

Gorge Yourself on Local Dishes

Because Bangkok is one of the top foodie destinations in the world, you would be crazy to not indulge in street food & local dishes every chance you get—a hint: they’re not on Khao San Road. Check out the 28 street foods you absolutely must try in Thailand.

The secret to finding the best food in Bangkok is to walk down some dark alleyways. The best local joints are always tucked into some inconspicuous corner or unassuming street. Take a wander and eat wherever locals seem to be flocking. I would start in Chinatown.

The Best Street Food Tours in Bangkok

Finding local food in Bangkok is easy. But finding the BEST local food in Bangkok without some help is nearly impossible. The city is just too big. A Chef’s Tour offers two different tours of Bangkok’s food scene — both led by a local and focused on the heart of Bangkok, STREET FOOD.

The Ancient Cities: Ayutthaya, Lopburi, & Sukhothai

You have to visit at least one. The three ancient cities definitely fall into the category of off-the-beaten-path Thailand destinations & it’s very likely you won’t have to weave through crowds.

Ayutthaya

Back when Thailand was known as the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was the capital city. Today, the ancient ruins lay spread over the sweltering flat landscape. Monasteries, statues, & stunning temples cover the archeological site & it’s arguably the most historically significant stop you can add to your Thailand itinerary. It reminded me of the ancient city of Bagan in Myanmar, renowned for its spectacular sunrises.

Ayutthaya Temples You Can’t Miss

• Wat Chaiwatthanara
• Wat Phra Mahathat. The face carved into twisting tree roots. This is one of the most famous sights in Ayutthaya.
• Wat Lokayasutharam
• Wat Phanan Choeng
• Chedi Phukhao Thong. The white temple.

Ayutthaya Tip: Loads of tour companies market Ayutthaya as a day trip from Bangkok. Go independently & stay overnight in the city. These kinds of dramatic brick temples look best at sunrise & sunset. The city is also the perfect landscape to explore by bicycle. Stay at Pan Din Boutique Guesthouse for a free bike and excellent room.

I would also add a visit to Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Phra Si Sanphet if you have the time.

Lopburi & Sukhothai

Lopburi is another great historical city but mixed among its ancient temples is monkey mayhem. Thousands of monkeys have turned these temples into a primate paradise. If you are terrified of these primates (I don’t blame you), I would consider skipping Lopburi.

Otherwise, be sure to visit Phra Prang Sam Yod. The main monkey hangout.

Sukhothai was the first capital city of Siam. & although the temples of Ayutthaya are more world-renowned, Sukhothai is the choice for those looking to get off the beaten path. Because of all the day-trippers that flood the grounds of Ayutthaya just a short hour and a half drive from Bangkok, the experience of the ruins of Sukhothai is often a much more enjoyable experience.

Kanchanaburi

The attractions in Kanchanaburi can weigh a little heavy on your heart. Much like the genocide museums in Phnom Phen Cambodia, this Thai town saw a lot of atrocities. During WW2 Kanchanburi was an Allied POW camp & many American, British, Dutch, & Australian soldiers lost their lives here. These historical museums are worth visiting to gain a better understanding of Thailand’s past.

Death bridge

Constructed entirely by forced labor, this railway connects Thailand and neighboring Myanmar. Most of the track no longer exists but it is one of the most popular attractions in Kanchanaburi. I highly recommend getting a local guide to explain the history.

Kanchanaburi War Cemetery

Another powerful war memorial. This is where the POW who died during the construction of the death railway rest today.

Tham Krasae Cave

Like so many other caves in Asia, Tham Krasae Cave is also a temple. Ride the death railway train 2-hours to the River Kwai Bridge to marvel at the golden Buddha inside the cavern. The cave is pretty standard as far as caverns in Asia go but the journey is gorgeous.

Sai Yok Noi Waterfall 

Kanchanaburi is known for its phenomenal waterfalls. & like all the other stunning falls in Thailand, this one is bright blue, surrounded by dense jungles, & swimmable. The falls are inside the National Park but you don’t have to pay the entrance fee to reach them.

Erawan National Park & The 7-Tiered Erawan Waterfalls

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This is a waterfall worth chasing. If you visit one waterfall in all of Thailand, make it this one. Erawan Falls is 7 cascading levels flowing through the trees & the higher up the tiers you venture the prettier the views become. Level 7 is definitely the prettiest & least crowded level. The turquoise water starkly contrasts the white rocks framing the pool.

Cost: 200 THB ($6.50)

Tham Sua Temple

This is the most impressive temple in the region. Not to be confused with the Krabi temple of the same name, also known as “the tiger temple“. Climb the colorful staircase or opt to save your legs & take the funicular to the giant golden buddha & ornate temple at the top.

Chiang Mai

The most beloved city in Thailand. You can hike to hillside monasteries, gorge yourself on Northern-style Thai food, browse some of Asia’s largest street markets, & marvel at magnificent temples some ancient & some new. Chiang Mai is also a hot digital nomad location & wandering the streets don’t be surprised to find the city filled with ex-pats.

It’s also home to the BEST food in all of Thailand. You must try Sai Ua– the succulent lemongrass sausage roasting at every street market.

Looking for the best street food tour in Chaing Mai?

Look no further. A Chef’s Tour (my favorite food tour company) focuses on culturally important dishes and offers two different tours in Chaing Mai. One for lunch and one for dinner. Expect to spend 5 hours seeing the city from a local’s perspective and tasting iconic dishes all while learning about the rich cultural history of North Thailand.

Where to Stay: If you’re looking for a really chill hostel experience, I highly recommend Oh My Bed Chiang Mai. Part tattoo shop-part cozy cat house, this hostel sits on the edge of old town.

The Best Temples in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is covered in temples. Seemingly every corner has an intricately carved stunning temple & even if you dedicated your entire trip to it you would never be able to see them all. Here are a few temples worth seeing.

• Wat Chedi Luang 
• Wat Buppharam
• Wat Lok Molee
• Wat Chiang Man
• Doi Suthep

Doi Suthep is a little overrated in my personal opinion. It’s pretty far from the city & absolutely swarming with people. I recommend combining it with a small motorbike loop to the Hmong village for their signature coffee & freshly harvested strawberries.

• Wat Suan Dok. Time your visit for 5-7 Mon/Wed/Fri & you can chat with the monks. Ask them anything you would like. It’s a great opportunity to understand Buddhism a little bit better.
• Wat U Mong. Also known as the tunnel temple.
• Wat Sri Suphan. The silver temple. Be warned ahead of time that women aren’t allowed inside the main temple.

My favorite night market sits right outside Wat Sri Suphan. It’s massive & has the best street food options. You can find it on Maps.Me labeled as “Saturday Night Market”.

Saturday 6pm – Midnight

Monks trail hike to Wat Pha Lat

If you’re looking for a peaceful hike with lovely views of Chiang Mai, I can’t recommend the Monks trail enough. The pathway begins near the Chiang Mai zoo and twists up into the hillside ending at Wat Pha Lat- an intricate temple several peacocks call home.

Elephant Nature Park

Seeing elephants in Thailand had always been a dream of mine. Unfortunately, in many places throughout Thailand elephants are abused & trained to entertain tourists. It was super important to me that I found an ethical elephant sanctuary whose main purpose was to keep the elephants healthy & happy. Chiang Mai has the most elephant sanctuaries & there are plenty to choose from but Elephant Nature Park is undoubtedly the best.

Elephant Nature Park is a rescue & rehabilitation center with a herd of more than 40 elephants all recovered from logging & tourist ride camps. If you want to get up close & personal with these gentle giants & learn more about the plight of elephants in Thailand this is the park for you.

Doi Inthanon National Park

This National Park is set in the mountains about 2 hours outside of Chiang Mai but it’s a popular day-trip for travelers and locals. Being the highest point in Thailand, it goes without saying that this park offers some of the best viewpoints in the country but it also holds some spectacular waterfalls & really unique temples.

Kew Mae Pan nature trail is a beautiful 2-hour loop that will take you past some of the park highlights but be aware it’s closed for reforestation from June 1st to October 30th.

How to Get to Doi Inthanon

You basically have three options for transport. Do it yourself (scooter), public transportation (yellow songthaew), or join a group tour. Personally, since the ride is substantial & very winding we opted to take public transport. Just find the bright yellow trucks & hop aboard for 150 baht.

If you’re like us & decide to go at it yourself, here’s a small list of attractions worth visiting in the park.

• Sirithan Waterfall
• Wachirathan Waterfall
• The Twin Pagodas

Mae Rim Loop

I always include a motorbike loop in my destination guides. There’s no better way to see the landscape & explore the areas surrounding a city. & you have the freedom to stop at every sight that strikes your fancy. & it’s an easy way to step off the well-trodden tourist track because many people don’t feel comfortable driving a motorbike.

This motorbike loop is easily navigable in one long day. & was my favorite day we spent in Chiang Mai. It doesn’t particularly matter whether you go clockwise or counterclockwise but keep in mind the waterfalls and best food stops will be the first stop if you chose to go counterclockwise. I opted to go in reverse so we could save the falls for swimming in the heat of the day (& not spend the whole day soaked on the motorbike). I mapped out the route below but here are the stops you MUST take along the way.

• Samoeng Forest Viewpoint
• Mae Sap Cave (you’ll have to backtrack a bit to get back on the loop after this stop but it was worth it)
• Mae Sa Waterfalls
• Riverside Restaurants for Lunch

As you get closer to town you’ll see cheesy snake farms, crocodile farms, & unfortunately elephant ride camps. We cut these tourist attractions off our loop but they are popular stops.

Chiang Mai is the ONE place in all of Thailand you WILL be ticketed for not having a motorbike license. It’s 500 Baht & they have checkpoints surrounding old town. The good news is once you pay your fine–the ticket you are given allows you to drive for three more days hassle-free. There is usually a checkpoint on the winding road up to Doi Suthep as well.

Best Markets in Chiang Mai

Sunday Night Market (Ratchadamnoen Road)

This market is madness. It’s massive & always shoulder-to-shoulder packed. But don’t let that stop you from visiting. You’ll find everything from wine to rotisserie quail & of course loads of gift-worthy handmade goods if you’re into that kind of thing.

Saturday Night Market (Wua Lai Road)

Much like the Sunday Night market but the wares are different. I thought the food was better here & it is often less crowded. (Don’t forget to visit Sri Suphan while you’re in the area).

Ton Lam Yai Flower Market (Praisanai Road)

An impressive array of flowers set in a beautiful outdoor market. Perfect for a nice morning stroll.

On Your Bucketlist: The Yi Peng Festival

Golden glowing rice paper lanterns flicker across the dark skies, streets are crowded with local & foreign tourists– everyone brushing against one another in the hurry to light their own flimsy fire lantern.

It’s the most romantic festival in the world. Although, since I got engaged there I might be biased.

Chiang Mai is home to this extravagant beautiful festival. The Disney movie Tangled even featured the festival on the big screen. It happens every November on the 12th full moon of the year which means dates aren’t often known more than a month in advance.

If you’re interested in celebrating for free & like the locals I recommend purchasing your lanterns on the street & going to the Nawarat bridge for the release. Even better pop into a temple or the bridge just upriver for fewer crowds. Check out my complete guide to celebrating Yi Peng with the locals. The $100 ticketed events are for foreigners only. Great for Instagram shots, but not how the festival is typically celebrated.

Best Food in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is the place to delve into street food. You absolutely cannot leave the city without sampling a big steaming bowl of Khao Soy. It’s a Northern Thai specialty. A warm spiced curry broth filled with tender chicken on the bone & al dente noodles–it’s one of my favorite foods in Thailand. Here are a few other spots you should try in the city.

Cowboy Hat Lady @ Chang Phueak North Gate

Anthony Bourdain may have made her famous but it’s because her pork is truly that good. Her food stall opens at 6 PM every day & it’s ALWAYS packed. Her signature dish is the Khao Kha Moo (tender perfectly spiced pork) smothered in her fresh-made sauce that sits in buckets atop her plastic tables. Get there early (or late) to avoid the rush.

50-Year Old Murtabak Cart

Yes, This woman has been selling murtabak for 50 years from this same cart. Murtabak is a tasty stuffed Arabic pancake–often stuffed with chicken, potatoes, and/or onions. She also makes sweet ones similar to the street banana roti. Unfortunately, I can only guestimate where her cart is located but check the map below.

Pai

Back in the 90’s Pai was a hippy haven. Vegan food, crisp mountain air perfect for clearing your mind, & plenty of yoga studios. 746 turns up a winding road north of Chaing Mai, you’ll still find the town attracting its fair share of dreadlocked barefoot travelers but it’s pretty much completely lost it’s ‘untouched by tourism’ feel. It’s well on the trodden path in Thailand.

In spite of this, I found myself loving Pai. The food was phenomenal & a welcome change to the pork heavy meals I had been indulging in in Chiang Mai. Pai is pristine nature. Stunning canyons, hot springs, hikes, & motorbike loops.

Transportation Tip: Rent a motorbike in Pai. There’s to much in the surrounding countryside to see to go without one. Be warned however that this is often the first place young backpackers try out motorbikes & can make the roadways prone to accidents. Checkpoints are common. Not for motorbike licenses but for drugs. Be sure to not carry any drugs on you.

Float the River

At your own peril. The river running through Pai is shallow & slow-moving. Mostly. You’ll be plopped 5 miles upstream for a few hours float and in a few places, the current tosses you straight into the banks of the river. The seemingly tame river has some teeth along the way. Don’t forget to stock up on some river beers & make sure you only bring what you’re prepared to lose. RIP to my GoPro. Most hostels and guesthouses will offer a drop-off service & tube rental.

Cost to Float the River: $7

Pai & Drugs. They’ve gone hand in hand since the first travelers fell in love with this isolated mountain village. Mushrooms & Marijuana are easily purchased and readily available. But in recent years, Thai Police have been cracking down. Random checkpoints are common & if you get caught with drugs you’ll be asked for a massive bribe or persecuted to the full extent of Thai law.

Stuff Your Face at the Night market

Pai’s can be expensive. All the vegan food comes with a hefty price tag. Enter the night market. Every night food vendors cart their stalls to Pai walking street & serve everything from fried chicken to dumplings, shampoo baked potato (still not exactly sure what made it Shampoo), & steaming sausages.

Best Vegan Food Spot: Blossom Cafe is hands-down the best vegan food in Pai. I still dream about their massive tempeh platter. If you’re going to splurge in restaurants this is the place to go.

Best Local Food Spot: Two Sisters. This restaurant is a little family-owned hut with some Burmese influence. The food was budget-friendly & insanely good.

Pai Canyon

Every evening at sunset all the tourists in Pai head to the canyon. 20 minutes on the back of a motorbike you’ll reach a packed parking lot & a few dust-covered trails. The sheer orange rock faces of the canyons are unlike any other landscape I’ve encountered in Thailand. The further along the canyon you hike the fewer tourists you’ll encounter. Follow the deep ravines carved by thousands of people’s feet along the ridges.

Pembok waterfall

An hour scenic motorbike ride from Pai, this waterfall is tucked into the crevasse of a cave & easily reachable by a short hike. If you’re feeling adventurous you can take a dip in the freezing turquoise waters or hike the trail above the falls and follow the flowing water to its source.

Waterfall Ticket: $1.25

White Buddha

What Thai city could be complete without a massive buddha overlooking the town? This massive white stone buddha sits atop of long staircase & offers great views of the town far below.

Sunset Yoga

It wouldn’t be Pai without Yoga. & there are quite a few places where you can enjoy yoga with a stunning view. Circus Hostel is one of them. If you’re a guest at the hostel, yoga is free.

Hot Springs

You’re early morning hangover cure. Or in my case an opportunity to rest my aching muscles from all the yoga. These natural hot springs are surrounded by forest and some are boiling hot. You can even hard boil eggs in a few of them (although the staff strictly prohibits this). Steep yourself in the hot rocky pools closer to the entrance.

Cost of the Hot Springs: $9

Odd Ball Attraction Worth a Visit: The Bunny Cafe. You’ve probably heard of a cat cafe but this coffee shop swapped cats for long-eared fuzzy rabbits. Enjoy your cup of joe with a furry friend.

Where to Stay: For those on a budget there are two stand-outs for accommodation. Circus Hostel ($15 per night-private room) & Pai Country Hut ($17 per night-Bungalow). Circus hostel has a pool, massive breakfast buffet, & offers free Yoga to the people who stay. Pai Country Hut is right near the river & walking street, but the real reason to stay is the wonderful little thatched-roof bungalows and tasty free breakfast in the morning.

Chiang Dao

Chiang Dao is seldom visited & that just sweetens its appeal. Sitting about halfway between Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai it seems a natural stop between the cities, unfortunately, it’s not so easily reached.

Because of this Chiang Dao has remained a sleepy mountain town. With one major bucketlist attraction.

On Your Bucketlist: Climb Doi Luang

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‘The last tooth of the Himalayas’. This peak sits at just over 2,000 meters & is the third tallest in all of Thailand. But the hike itself is renowned as Thailand’s best. Here are some important things you should know before you go.

• You MUST go with a guide. It costs around 1000 THB for a guide. You used to be able to summit solo but Thai police have cracked down & there are always guards watching the entrance.
• It’s a 9-mile hike & overall not difficult for those with a medium level of fitness.
• The hike snakes through the National Park & a stunning nature preserve so keep your eyes peeled for local wildlife.
• I highly recommend a tour where you camp near the summit. Not because it can’t be done in one day, but because watching the sky fill with stars all around you & then eventually the sunrise over the peaks is part of the whole draw to this adventure.

Other Attractions Worth Visiting

Chiang Dao Hot Springs

A nice soak will be just what you’re after following your hike up Doi Luang.

Wat Tham Pha Plong

It’s a little bit of a walk but this jungle temple is absolutely stunning & well worth the effort of the 500-step staircase.

Chiang Dao Cave

Reminiscent of the stunning Buddhist caves in Hpa-An, Myanmar, this walkthrough cavern is a must-see in the area.

Cost: $3 per person.

Chiang Rai

At first glance, Chiang Rai is just another small metropolis in Thailand. When the bus pulls in you’ll be set at the feet of the towns sprawling marketplace filled to the brim with artisan goods and thrift apparel. The flat landscape surrounding the typical Thai town is spotted with beautiful temples & rugged caves.

Free Shuttle Service Hack: Inconveniently, the tourist buses from Pai drop you off at the mall on the outskirts of town. Tuk-tuk drivers here charge an arm & a leg to take you the remaining mile or two into town BUT there is a free shuttle to the luxury hotels from the mall. Just hop on & tell them you plan to stay at one of the hotels & get off at the first stop and say you’ll walk the rest of the way.

Best Of Chiang Rai

Clay Hot Pots & Seafood Galore at the Chiang Rai Night Bazaar

At 6 PM the market comes alive. Spindly tables crowd with Chinese tourists arranging piles of raw meat & the carefully stacked smoking coals for their hot pots. The large red clay bowls soon to be filled with shrimp, vegetables, & thinly sliced pork.

Although the market offers a variety of fried foods, noodle dishes, & kababs– the Hot Pots are the must-eat meal.

Budget Tip: The cheapest & tastiest passionfruit/mango smoothies sit right at the entrance to this market.

Wat Rong Khun: The White Temple

Although admittedly this “temple” is more an architectural wonder/art project inspired by Thai temples rather than an actual temple it’s the # 1 attraction in Chiang Rai.

Cost: $3.15 per person

Wat Rong Seua Ten: The Blue temple

This temple on the other hand is fully functioning & well worth the short drive out of town. It’s also free to visit & has plenty of food stalls serving fresh coconut ice cream & butterfly pea tea.

Baan Dam: The Black House Museum

About 40 buildings nearly all carved from dark teak wood in traditional Thai style, house paintings, other artworks, & animal skins. The museum is created by a Thai artist & with a guide you’ll get a lot more out of the experience. But even just for a quick visit, it’s worth a look.

Cost: $2.75 per person.

Get Lost in Chiang Rai’s Extensive Wet Markets

Near the old clock tower, you’ll find the morning wet markets. Even if you’re not stocking up on groceries I always enjoy browsing local treats & produce often sampling as I go. Our hostel had a kitchen for the first time in all our Asia travels so we bought a full chicken & veggies to make a delicious roast dinner over Christmas.

Stroll the Saturday & Sunday Walking streets for more market opportunities. You can find them on Maps.me

Wat Tham Phra Cave

If you’re looking for an underground experience this cave nestled against the Kok river is rustic & undeveloped but just what you’re looking for. A monk lives at the entrance but continue walking through and you’ll reach the cave entrance.

Wat Tham Tu Pu

This cave is hardly worth mentioning but if you find yourself visiting Wat Tham Phra then you can easily make a stop here. A steep staircase leads to the entrance of the small cavern.

Take the Scenic Route to Mae Salong

If you’re like me you love a good scenic motorbike journey. This is an opportunity to see the terrain of Northern Thailand. & glimpse a side of Thailand few tourists see.

Best Accommodation In Chiang Rai: Bed & Bike Poshtel. The rooms were ultra-modern & super clean. At $13 a night for a private, it’s slightly on the higher end of our budget but the HUGE family room upstairs made it worth it. It’s also the only hostel we have stayed at in Thailand with a fully functional kitchen to cook for yourself.

The cheapest motorbike rental in town is also on the adjacent street

Waterfalls of Chiang Rai (Near-ish to Chiang Rai)

You’ll likely rent a motorbike in Chiang Rai so you might as well get your money’s worth. There are four nearby falls worth visiting.

Issan

Whatever you thought you knew about Thailand, Issan changes your entire perspective immediately. No crowds, beautiful rural landscapes, & oddly enough…lots of ex-pats.

Not in the way Chiang Mai has attracted a constant rotation of digital nomads, but in the fall in love & settle down for an extended period of time kind of ex-pats.

Issan is a chance to truly get off-the-beaten-path & to catch a glimpse of what Thailand was like before the Westernization took over. & if you’re wondering where Issan is….it’s the eastern region that stretches to touch the Laos border.

Tips for Issan: Couchsurfing is super easy here since there are plenty of ex-pats. Definitely considering joining the community. As with many small towns in Thailand that don’t rely heavily on tourism, English isn’t always proficient.

Best of Issan

Visit The Ancient Temple Complex of Phanom Rung

If you’ve been to Angkor Wat in Cambodia you’ll recognize the architecture immediately. You also wouldn’t know it, but the park is also sitting on the rim of an extinct volcano.

Issan’s true appeal lies not in its attractions but in the peace & quiet. In the way you’re able to just slip into Thai life & experience a more authentic (pre-westernization & development) version of Thailand. It’s a destination that will feel foreign no matter how comfortable you have become in the country thus far.

East of Issan

There’s a whole sprawling region between Issan & the Laos border. If you’ve already ventured out this far you may as well continue on to some of the other small towns in this region. Surin. Sakhon Nakhon. Ubon Ratchathani. Here are a few of my favorite attractions in the region.

Temple of the Mountain at Wat Phu Tok

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Built in the ’60s by a local monk these wobbly wooden walkways cling to the side of the rust-red rocks of the cliffside overlooking the greenest valley you’ve ever seen. Stick to the path on the right side if you want to enjoy the slightly more daring scenic route along these wooden paths. The left will take you straight to the 5th level where you can admire the shrine.

Khao Yai National Park

Nearish to Issan this massive National Park is packed to the brim with wildlife and dense jungle vegetation. It’s my favorite National Park in Thailand. If you’re reeeeally lucky you can even spot a wild tiger (although unlikely), elephants, monkeys, porcupines…the list goes on.

Looking for the Best Hikes in Thailand?

If you’re an avid hiker looking for the best mountain peaks to summit in Thailand you may have to delve a little deeper & travel to cities few others visit. Here are the best hikes in Thailand that aren’t in the cities mentioned above.

Watch the Sunrise at Phu Chi Fa Viewpoint

Sit above the clouds and stare down at the green valley on the Thai-Laos borderland. Try to begin your hike at 5 Am to arrive at the summit before sunrise.

Get Vertigo at Khao No

If you’re looking for a killer photo op this is the place. But if you have a problem with heights this is probably not the hike for you. & if this peak seems a little too far out of the way you can always try the very similar peak in Laos another time.

Hang Nak Mountain Nature Trail

This is a relatively popular hiking path near Krabi town. It’s only 4.5 miles long & the views from above are phenomenal.

Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao Rachanusorn

About a 2 & a half-hour drive into the middle of nowhere from Chiang Mai you can reach these hillside temples stacked neatly into the cliffs. These white cap rounded temples are quite a sight to see.

Mount Mokoju

This is one of the highest peaks in all of Thailand. Summiting this monster will take 3-5 days and a relatively good level of physical fitness.

The Islands

The Thai islands. We’ve all seen the photos. Rugged palm-fringed beaches with impossibly white sand and aquamarine water. Unfortunately, not all Thai beaches are created equal. To avoid the expensive, the crowded, and the not so scenic–try these islands instead.

Koh Phangan

The island of the infamous full-moon party. Where hoards of Aussie teens and young backpackers flock to drink too much and cover themselves in neon paint. Now hear me out, Koh Phangan is still an island paradise.

The less-developed Northern end of the island is easily reachable via motorbike. & worth the extra effort to visit.

Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta has good- not great- beaches. But with the remote edges of this developed island still covered in traversable jungle, there is plenty to do here. It’s also the best place in Thailand to learn how to drive a motorbike.

Best of Koh Lanta

• Pay a visit to the historic old town. This little Thai fishing village has lots of shops & the best food options on the island.

• Hike around in Koh Lanta National Park. There are some really great seaside vantage points & Klong Chak cave and Klong Chak waterfall tucked into the jungle. Watch out for pesky monkeys.

• Rent a motorbike & explore the secret beaches. & far-flung corners of the island. The roads are well-maintained & it’s a great place to learn.

• Visit Sunshine Hill Viewpoint for a stunning sunrise. Or Koh Lanta Lighthouse for another great vantage point above the island.

Koh Lipe

This microscopic island is the tropical paradise of your dreams. Empty white sand beaches, warm turquoise oceans, and plenty of cheap bungalows to call home. This is one of my personal favorites of the Thai islands. I cannot recommend visiting here enough. DO IT.

Best Food on the Island: Thai Lady Pancake Shop. It’s directly across from the infamous “YooHoo” restaurant.

Best of Koh Lipe

• Kayak to the nearby Koh Adang & hike Chado Cliff to see Koh Lipe surrounded by bright blue water from above.

• Take advantage of the world-class snorkeling.

• Although Sunset beach was my favorite, Pattaya beach is great in the daytime when the tide receded & you can explore the soft sandy tide pools.

Koh Mook

Paired with Koh Kradan and Koh Libong these are the three most underrated Thai islands in the Andaman Sea. Read my full guide linked above to see why I recommend them to all travelers looking to get away from the crowds.

Koh Kood

I have one massive guide explaining why this island is the single best one in all of Thailand. It’s close to Cambodia and a little out of the way but I promise you the extra effort to reach it is well worth it.

Koh Tao

A little more expensive and a little more crowded than the other islands on this list, but what Koh Tao lacks in isolation it makes up for in coral reefs. Known for its insane dive sites, this is the ideal place to finally get that PADI certification or just do some snorkeling over its renowned underwater world.

Koh Jum/Koh Pu

One island two different names. Easily accessible from Krabi, this is a true patch of paradise. Half the island remains undeveloped with nothing except sparsely scattered bungalows while the other end has sparkling white beaches rimmed-with a few luxury resorts.

Koh Tarutao

Tucked far away from the hustle and bustle of the mainland, Koh Tarutao is undeveloped and great for those just looking to get away from it all. Silica sand, limestone cliffs, and abandoned prison cells. This island is so remote it was once used as a prison for Thai political rebels. Fortunately, somewhere along the way, it was decided it would make a better paradise than purgatory.

Islands I would Skip

Beautiful beaches ruined by over-tourism. Unfortunately, there are plenty of Thailand’s 1,400+ islands that are overcrowded and unjustly expensive. Oddly enough, those two things go hand in hand. Personally, I would skip these heavily touristed ‘island paradises’.

• Koh Phi Phi/James Bond Island
• Krabi
• Phuket
• Pattaya (not an island, but still worth mentioning)

These are the places travelers visit and leave disappointed. Don’t let yourself be fooled by Instagram’s deceptive depictions. There are more people than beach & it’s far from the picturesque paradise of your imagination.

There is one reason to end up in Phuket…Food.

A Chef’s Tour hosts two different food tours in the popular tourist city. This is without a doubt the best way to experience the local cuisine and understand Phuket on a deeper level.

Getting Around the Islands

Island hopping in Thailand is easy. A little more expensive than transport in the rest of the country but nonetheless easy. Small speed boats connect all the islands and depending on the time of year leave 2 times daily.

Weather matters in the Islands. The rainy season is fine & dandy if you plan on traveling mainland Thailand BUT no one wants their beach days ruined with torrential downpours. Avoid May-November in the Thai islands.

Cost of Travel in Thailand

I’m sure most travelers already know that Thailand is a cheap backpacker destination. But exactly how cheap? That’s completely up to you.

Our 47-Day Thailand Budget Breakdown

Thailand can be easily & comfortably traveled on a budget of $35-40 per day. On my most recent visit, we spent $46.61 per day as a couple!!

The islands are the most expensive part of travel in Thailand. The speed boats that shuttle you between beach paradises are costly & alcohol on the islands is double the price. The more touristed a place is the more expensive it’s bound to be. But on the mainland, there’s always a local option–be it transportation, food, or just an alternate activity.

I love Thailand. Known as the “Land of Smiles” locals welcome tourists with open arms. I’ll probably never be “finished” exploring Thailand. But this complete backpacker’s guide to Thailand should give you ALL the info you need to make your trip to Thailand one of your favorites. & help you navigate away from the crowds & off-the-beaten-path in Thailand.

Questions about Thailand? Or planning your dream trip? Feel free to shoot me an email at geena.truman@gmail.com. I would love to chat & help.

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