How to Plan an Epic Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip (Full Itinerary)

This post may contain affiliate links. This just means I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you for helping them promote their product or service. I don’t endorse any services I don’t personally use or recommend.

The Kurdistan region of Iraq could not be more different from the deserts of South Iraq. Instead, of flat barren landscapes cut through by straight highways, you get twisting roads meandering their way through snow-capped mountains and across full rivers. Time it right + wildflowers are in full bloom. Instead, of dust-caked cities, you get quaint villages. Even the food in Kurdistan is different. Before visiting we had no idea that you even could independently road trip through Iraq. But it’s really the only way to see all the best Iraqi Kurdistan has to offer.

This guide will help you prepare to embark on your very own budget-friendly Iraqi Kurdistan road trip. All the must-have items, where to rent your car, and every stop you can’t miss along the way.

We’ve done some phenomenal road trips over the years. We braved the slick roads of Iceland during winter. Beach-bummed through Baja for a month in our campervan. We tracked down the black bears of Vancouver Island. & spent a full year as vanlifers exploring more than 40 US National Parks. But this road trip was one of our very favorites.

What You Need to Know Before Your Iraq Road Trip

Let’s cover the logistics. Because, for most, road-tripping is not the most common way to explore an international country. And the thought of driving somewhere you don’t speak the language can seem a little overwhelming at first.

Is it safe to road trip in Iraqi Kurdistan?

Yes! Unlike Federal Iraq the roads in Iraqi Kurdistan are well-maintained and the rules of the road are generally followed.

The region was also much less involved in the country’s previous wars. This means there are far fewer militia groups still in the area and only a few places in the region where landmines might still remain underground undetected. Neither is a concern at all if you stick to this itinerary! (or pretty much any itinerary you might find online). Read my entire guide on how to safely travel Iraq as a solo woman here.

Ask any Iraqi and road-tripping Iraqi Kurdistan is the clear winner vs. relying on public transport, a tour, or hitchhiking.

Hitchhiking in Iraq? Yup. It’s a pretty popular + safe thing to do. In fact, most of the small towns in Iraqi Kurdistan I highly recommend visiting can only be reached with your own vehicle or by hitching a ride. If you are on any kind of schedule though, hitch-hiking is probably not the right method for you.

Is it affordable?

My biggest concern when it comes to renting a vehicle is always the budget.

We rented our car for $30/day. Total.

Use Ace Car Rental. Hertz Car Rental wanted to charge us $60 per day for the same vehicle. We went with the cheapest option: a small Nissan Sunny. You don’t need 4-wheel drive in Iraqi Kurdistan because nearly all the roads are paved or at the very least hard-packed.

If you are arriving in Erbil by air + not following my 2-week full Iraq itinerary you *could* rent a car from the airport instead. I don’t think you’ll find a cheaper deal and then you’ll have to hassle with parking in Erbil which is a disaster.

I recommend waiting until the day you want to leave Erbil and begin your road trip to rent your car.

What about gas + parking? Other essential road trip expenses. We filled up 2.5 fuel tanks on this trip which came to about $45 total on gas. Most of the time parking was free. We paid for an overnight garage in Dohuk that ended up costing $3. All other parking was $1 or less.

The Best Time of Year for an Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip

Anytime but winter!

Because of the higher elevation, mountain ranges, and winding roads you’ll want to avoid snow at all costs on your road trip.

The best time of year is May-July while the hills are lush + green, the mountains snow-capped, and wildflowers are in full bloom.

Keep in mind, that if you’re planning on pairing your Iraqi Kurdistan road trip with a visit to the rest of Iraq you’ll want to avoid the scorching summer months (June- Early September). For other pertinent trip info, read Everything You NEED to Know Before You Visit Iraq.

What to Bring on Your Road Trip

We took no pre-trip preparations. We literally threw our bags in the back and hit the road. But there are a few things we wish we would have prepared ahead of time.

• Fresh Tahini + Date Syrup. Breakfasts are limited on the road + gone are the hotel buffets common in Federal Iraq. For $1 per jar, you can have the perfect breakfast. Just grab some fresh bread from the roadside vendors each morning.
• Your Passport. Don’t let the car agency keep the original. You WILL need to show your documents + Iraq visa at the many checkpoints along the roads. This is another reason you cannot rent from Hertz Car Rental.
• Music + Podcasts. Unexpectedly our car was Bluetooth-connected. Check out our favorite podcasts on our vanlife essentials guide.
• SIM Card. You can pick one up very easily in the Erbil Citadel Baazar. It cost us $20 for the card + 5 GB of data.
• Coffee. Yeah, the instant kind. Otherwise, you’ll be stuck with tea.

You will find cold canned coffee at some of the small grocery stores along the way. It’s not the best but it will do. Also, these are great stops for snacks and beverages to keep you fed on the road. We loved trying the melon milk, pineapple chia drinks, and other odd concoctions.

Essential Apps

There are a few apps that will make life on the road much easier.

• WhatsApp. This is what the entire world uses to communicate.
• Google Translate. English isn’t widely spoken and Google translate lets you download languages offline. When you’re online however you can even take photos of menus and automatically translate them. Remember most people here speak Kurdish not Arabic!!
• ArabiCalc. Numbers are usually in Arabic however. Arabic numbers are different than English. This makes haggling exceptionally hard. But not when you have a calculator.
• Maps.Me. Always my favorite offline map. It’s great for driving directions too.

A note on Maps.Me. There were a few times when Maps.Me took me WAY off the main road on a much slower, twistier road. It pays to check driving directions on Google Maps or Apple Maps (whichever you prefer) because they often have more accurate road details. Don’t get stuck driving hours on a bumpy dirt road for no reason.

Other Essential Kurdistan Road Trip Tips

• You do not need an international driver’s license. Just your US or home country’s license will do fine.
• There is no car insurance in Iraq. I asked our rental company about it but they explained it’s not something that people have in Iraq. So drive carefully. Or get travel insurance with rental coverage included.
• No need for a 4 x 4. As I already mentioned.
• Try to avoid rain. Many of the views are up in the mountains or require a clear-ish day.
• Don’t plan for more than 4 hours of GPS driving per day. This is a rule for pretty much all our road trips. When you’re sightseeing driving takes almost twice as long as your GPS estimates.
• Roads are good, but watch out for potholes. Some of them are brutal.
• Also…cows, goats, dogs, farmers, etc. The most common road hazards are usually animals. Farms are free-range and it seems they mostly like to range on the road.
• Avoid driving at night. Mostly because then you can’t see the stunning landscapes but also because of the cows.
• Always know where you are going. This will get you through the checkpoints quickly. They usually just ask where you are headed and if you have a firm answer they wave you through.
• Road signs are easy to decipher & cities are usually in English!
• Brits be warned…you drive on the right side of the roadway.
• You don’t need to book hotels in advance. There’s always lots of room in these small towns.

Best Car Rental in Iraqi Kurdistan?

As I already mentioned above, Ace Car Rental is the cheapest in town.

They let me keep my passport, gave us loads of free coffee, and filled out the paperwork quickly. Be sure to inspect your vehicle + take photos/videos of your car before you leave. We heard stories of people getting ripped off (Hertz again) and charged for tiny dings and dents they didn’t do.

Ace literally didn’t even inspect the vehicle when we dropped it off.

Here’s exactly where to find the Ace car rental office.

Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip Itinerary

You only need 4 days to road trip Iraqi Kurdistan! I mean, obviously, the more time the better. But this short road-trip itinerary is meant to give you the most bang for your buck in Kurdistan, (you are spending $30 per day after all) while showing off the region’s prettiest parts.

I crafted a complete Iraq itinerary that covers the whole country in two weeks. This is the shortest amount of time I recommend spending in the country (longer is obviously better). This 4-day road trip is included in my recommended itinerary + you can see the whole thing here.

Day One of Your Kurdistan Road Trip

It’s time to pick up your rental car! We did not have one arranged ahead of time, but if you want to get the cheapest vehicle (you do) it never hurts to give Ace Car Rental a call and reserve one for pick-up. I would arrive at 9 AM (when they open) for an early morning start.

Erbil

You’re starting your day in Erbil, but because it’s a hectic city with crazy traffic circles…get out as fast as you can. Pick up you’re car and head for the first real destination on my list.

Lalish

The barefoot city.

The holiest city of the Yazidi religion. When you arrive at the city’s doorstep, it’s obligatory to remove your shoes before exploring. The town is small and easily walked in an hour but be sure to go inside the main temple complex (tomb of Sheik Adi Ibn) + see the White Spring.

If you happen to time your visit with a Yazidi holiday you’ll be joined by tons of worshippers. It’s a totally different experience than exploring on your own but I think it would be worth considering.

Don’t step on any door sills. There will be local devotees who are sure to remind you of this rule. But it’s highly disrespectful to make this mishap.

Rabban Hormizd Monastery

This hillside monastery is easily the most interesting Catholic structure in the Middle East. Sitting atop a canyon mountain, at the foot of an extraordinarily winding road, you get panoramic views when you’re done exploring the cave monastery. It supposedly houses martyrs at one point in history.

Alqosh town itself isn’t noteworthy. Just continue on to Dohuk after.

Dohuk

An end to your journey on day one. Dohuk is a big city. Much bigger than I originally thought. But depending on how quick you were today you’ll probably pull in near dusk + exhausted. I had a weird thing for Dohuk. There’s a covered market with all kinds of spices. Great juice places. Worth exploring if you have the time.

Where to Sleep: Dusky Hotel (Dohuk)

We paid 40k IQD which felt a little bit like a ripoff. They gave us a “family” room. But we didn’t know that until after we opened the door. If you ask specifically for the cheapest room you should get a better deal.

Parking is tricky in Dohuk. There is a parking garage right around the corner from the hotel. It costs $3 to park overnight.

Day Two of Your Kurdistan Road Trip

We made sure to wake up nice + early today. This is the longest day of the road trip. Mostly because you’ll end in Akre which is a town worth exploring, unlike Dohuk. I would recommend being on the road by 9 AM.

Amedi

This ancient city is sitting on top of a mesa surrounded by lush mountains. The drive here is significantly prettier than the day before. This is where the weather starts to really matter. Because it’s not the town of Amedi that’s interesting. It’s the views of it.

Check out the map at the bottom of this blog post for the best viewpoints of Amedi.

Dore Canyon

This is one of the most off-the-beaten-path destinations on this list. And it can be hard to find on your own. But the stunning views of this Ox-Bow River are well worth the slight hassle. Which if you use my map…won’t be so much of a hassle at all.

While we were looking for the viewpoint we accidentally walked through a farmer’s property and got chased by a ferocious-looking dog. We had to blaze our own trail the whole way…until we met up with the real trail that is.

Shanidar Cave

This cave, aside from being scenic, is also an important archeological site. 10 neandertal bodies were uncovered here dating between 40,000-60,000 years old. This is the oldest known burial site of any human ancestor.

Akre

This town is so cool. You have to stay overnight. Because there are actually a few things worth doing here.

First, visit the castle on the hill. You can explore the ruins at will and even hike around the area on your own if you have the time. Then there’s the city viewpoint. The “I Love Akre” Viewpoint. You can drive right up to the top and park for free. This offers panoramic views of the city.

My favorite viewpoint, however, is the view of the mosque. I’ve got it marked on the map below in case you miss it. But Akre is a small town.

Where to Sleep + Eat in Akre

There are tons of bakeries and restaurants all throughout the town of Akre. Hotels too. Unfortunately, on our road trip, we did not stay overnight in Akre. I’ve modified our itinerary to recommend that you do. But that means I don’t have a specific hotel to recommend to you.

This city is super popular with local Kurdish people on vacation. Just pop into any hotel and they will likely have a room.

Day Three of Your Kurdistan Road Trip

This is my personal favorite day of the road trip. I’m a sucker for big mountain views. And this is where you’ll start getting that jaw-dropping scenery.

Rawanduz Viewpoint

Another stunning canyon view. You’ll wind through the lower canyon road with views that resemble Utah’s, Zion National Park. The town is rather cute too.

Gomi Felaw + The Hamilton Highway

My favorite spot in Iraqi Kurdistan. The drive alone was worth the extra miles. You can drive right up to the snowy face of the biggest peak in Kurdistan and take some epic photos. The road here is the prettiest but also the most treacherous. It can easily be done in your little rental car but take extra care because the turns are exposed to the cliff.

If you choose to hike around in this area be sure you know where the Iraq/Iran border is. A few years back a small group of tourists were arrested and imprisoned in Iran for crossing the border illegally while hiking. You shouldn’t be near the border unless you’re doing a serious hike though.

Now, you’ll get to backtrack the way you came to return to Soran for the night.

Soran

Soran is a small town, not more than a handful of streets. There’s a great bakery on the main strip, some nice juice places, and a whole stretch of shawarma. Be warned that like most of Iraq, power outages happen on occasion here, but it should come back on quickly.

Where to Sleep: Zagros Hotel

For 30k IQD or $20 we got free parking out front and a simple room with huge windows overlooking the city. The place was a little dingy but right in the heart of town and the beds were perfectly comfy. Wifi was good (even during the power outage somehow) + they had free tea 24/7.

If you ask for parking they give you a sign to put on your windshield allowing you to park out front.

Day Four of Your Kurdistan Road Trip

The final full day of your trip.

Dukan Lake

This lovely placid lake makes for a good lunch stop if you still have some bread, date syrup, and tahini to eat.

Mount Goyzha

Just outside Sulaymaniyah is this “mountain”. It offers the best views of Iraqi Kurdistan’s most beloved city.

Sulaymaniyah

Universally loved by travelers, Suli is a big city. It’s also a modern one. There’s tons of good food, a short hike or cable car up to Azmar Mountain, and a grand bazaar worth browsing. If you have a little extra time you can pay a visit to Amna Suraka or the Red Prison. This museum gives great insight into the plight of the Kurdish people, from ancient to modern history.

Specifically, when Saddam targeted the Kurds and gassed them leaving more than 200,000 people dead. It’s a heavy day but it’s important to get the full picture of the Kurdish people.

Where to Sleep: Dolphin Hostel (Sulaymaniyah)

The only hostel in all of Iraq. Obviously, this is where you have to stay. You can book on Hostelworld or just show up and get a better deal by telling the owner you’re a part of Iraqi Travellers Cafe on Facebook.

If you don’t want to pay for the 5th day of your car rental, you should wake up super early to make the drive back to Erbil from Sulaymaniyah. You also could arrange for a one-way rental + leave the car in Sulimaniyah but this option was only available with Hertz + aside from the other problems I have with them this option was far more expensive than a round trip rental.

Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip Map

Here’s your complete Iraqi Kurdistan road trip map. Each day of the trip is highlighted in a different color so it’s easier to visualize.

Traveling along the winding roads of Northern Iraq on our multi-day Iraqi Kurdistan road trip was one of our favorite memories in the country. The landscapes reminded me of our home back in the Pacific Northwest. But with lovely mosques and free-roaming roadside puppies to cuddle. If you need help planning your Iraq Road Trip feel free to reach out on Instagram!

Save This Post For Later!