Colca Canyon: Is It Worth It? (+ Tips To Hike It Independently)

This post may contain affiliate links. This just means I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you for helping them promote their product or service. I don’t endorse any services I don’t personally use or recommend.

Peru is a punishing country. There’s just so much to do and see and ALL OF IT pushes your body to the limits. From the wildly unpredictable weather to the infuriating bugs to the sheer elevation- hiking in Peru is challenging. And Colca Canyon is all of the aggravating frustrations of Peru buttoned up in one exhausting package. Yet it’s one of the most popular hikes in Southern Peru and one of the few you can tackle independently to boot. 

But should you hike the Colca Canyon?

Is the pain worth the gain?

I’ve got lots of opinions after spending 6-weeks in Peru and spending three-days hiking in the canyon myself.

What is the Colca Canyon Trek?

The Colca Canyon is the 3rd deepest canyon in the world. Arguably. There’s apparently a lot of controversy over what exactly constitutes a canyon. It sits about 3-4 hours (driving distance) outside of Peru’s white city- Arequipa. This makes the canyon an easy addition to everyone’s Peru itinerary.

The most popular way to explore the canyon is via a tour. But since the trails are simple you don’t really need one. Instead, you can take collectivos from Arequipa to the town of Cabanaconde where you’ll begin your 1, 2, or 3-day hike.

Collectivo Tip: You’ll actually get two collectivos. One from Arequipa to Chivay and the second from Chivay to Cabanaconde.

The Big Question…is Colca Canyon Worth it? 

No, and I’ll tell you why.

Every step of this hike is cruel and unusual punishment. Flat does not exist in this landscape. Some real masochist carved this trail into one of the world’s deepest canyons. I get when you go down you must eventually have to go up when canyon hiking but you COULD have chiseled the trail along the river or canyon basin between the small villages. It would have made at least one of your trekking days easy. But no. Instead you’ll climb nearly out of the canyon just to descend once again. 

Colca Canyon is a volatile desert sitting at 11,000 feet. You’ll battle sweltering heat, exposed trails, torrential downpours that cause landslides, painful descents, excruciating ascents, biting flies that swarm and create welts that later blister. 

And there’s no “but” coming here. 

You’ll endure all of this for NO REASON. Colca is most beautiful from the canyon edge in Cabanaconde. Condors soar so far out of sight you’re lucky to spot a single black dot. And the trail is rough. Straight up and then straight down. 

I know you’re in Peru but if your looking for similar vistas and WAY closer sightings of Condors just plan a visit to Pinnacles National Park in California.

If you’re looking for a more rewarding hike in Peru try one of these instead…

But if you’re a glutton for punishment or simply not to be deterred…let me help you save your toenails (literally).

Tips for Hiking the Colca Canyon Independently

You don’t need a tour. It’s not going to make the hike more enjoyable. In fact, you’ll often just have to either wait for others or push yourself to keep up. Going alone allows you to truly set your own pace.

But here’s what you need to know about hiking Colca Canyon on your own.

1. For the love of god leave early.

I cannot stress this enough. It gets toasty warm inside the canyon and you’ll want to finish your day’s hike before peak heat. You should leave no later than 6:30 AM each morning. If you choose to hike the ascent on the final day…some people leave as early as 3:30 AM.

2. Sunscreen and wide brim sun hat. 

The canyon trails don’t offer a lick of shade. Not even a single tree. You’ll be 100% exposed to the sun’s rays at 10,000 feet your entire hike. I wouldn’t have made it without my sun hat and a strong SPF.

3. Bug spray lots of it.

I briefly mentioned the biting flies but you have to understand…these were the bane of my existence. The bites are itchier and last longer than mosquitos. Be prepared. And have a long-sleeve hiking shirt and leggings to fend them off for when the bug spray just doesn’t work.

4. Clip your toenails. 

Weird suggestion, but stick with me. All this downhill hiking ravages your feet. If you don’t clip your toenails short not only will your feet be in excruciating pain by the end of the day but you might lose a toenail or two.

5. You don’t need to book accommodation ahead of time. 

There are only a handful of accommodation options in each canyon town but there is rarely a shortage of rooms. Unless you’re visiting in the peak season you’ll be fine just walking up to get the best price.

6. Bring snacks and at least 1.5 liter of water per person. 

There are no snack stands along the way. Not until you reach your destination for the evening that is. Start each day well-prepared. WITH AT LEAST 1.5 LITERS OF WATER PER PERSON.

7. Don’t hike alone. 

Because of the nature of the terrain and the isolation of the trails (we didn’t see a single person the first 2 days), it’s not the best idea to hike alone…male or female. The concern is that you’ll run out of water or break an ankle and have no one to go get help.

If you do decide to hike alone, be sure to tell someone when you plan to be out of the canyon. Just in case.

8. Trekking poles would be a good idea.

As a backpacker, bringing trekking poles abroad seemed a little ridiculous. But in Peru, trekking poles would be an excellent idea. There’s enough hiking to warrant the extra weight. This hike in particular is all steep uphill and downhill which would be made a lot easier with poles.

New to Backpacking? Here’s my complete backpacker packing list.

9. Cash is king. 

There are no ATMs in Cabanaconde. I REPEAT. THERE ARE NO ATMS IN CABANACONDE OR THE CANYON. This means you’ll need to bring enough cash from Arequipa (or Chivay) to sustain your entire trek. You’ll need cash for meals, lodging, and everything else in the canyon.

& it wouldn’t hurt to bring enough extra in case you decide you don’t want to walk out of the canyon yourself. *Spoiler* we ended up riding mules out of the canyon.

10. Pack Light. Here’s a quick example packing list for 3 days.

• 2 Pairs of Leggings.
• 1 Lightweight Long-sleeve Shirt
• 1 Tank Top
• Hiking Boots
• Sandals
• Sun Hat
• Swimsuit (NEED)
• Bug Spray, Sunscreen, Itch Cream, Ibuprophen, Band Aids, Neosporin
• Lifestraw Filter Water Bottle
• Trekking Poles

Have I Officially Scared You Away From the Canyon?

Consider joining a group tour. Bookmundi Partners with sustainable tourism operators like Alpaca Expeditions and GAdventures in Peru scoring you deals that are both good for you and the planet. Maybe, the canyon would have been more enjoyable done this way.

What Does Colca Canyon Cost?

We spent $180.13 over three days as a couple. Here’s a quick breakdown. **Not including the cost of the mules.**

Cost of 2 Collectivos & 1 taxi to collectivo station from Arequipa to Cabanaconde: $17.50

7-day Entrance Permit to the Colca Canyon: $17.29/ per person.

One night stay in Cabanaconde: $14.82

Food in Cabanaconde (beer, groceries, water): $9.88

One Night in Llahuar Hostel: $15

Food in Llahuar (+ 3 beers and gatorade): $31.43

One Night in Sangalle Accommodation: $13

Food in Sangalle + 2 beers: $26.51

Cost of 2 Collectivos & 1 taxi to collectivo station from Cabanaconde to Arequipa: $17.50

This is a good estimate of how much you might spend while in the canyon for three days. We each ate breakfast, lunch, and dinner at the lodging and drank our fair share of beer at night. In total, we spent about 730 soles. I would bring 1,000 soles just for emergencies.

Obviously, buying food and beer at the oasis is expensive. But the only other alternative is to pack food and that extra weight sucks.

The Best Way to Hike Colca Canyon

Spoiler: We didn’t hike the *best* way.

If I were to hike it again this is what I would do instead…

The Savvy Backpackers Route (Option 1)

If you have a burning desire to see this canyon I get it. We did. We wouldn’t do it again. But we did it. This is how we WISH we had done it if we had all the info. 

Day 1: Collectivos from Arequipa to Cabanaconde (Sleep Here)

We loved our cozy room at Arun Qurpuwasi Hospetage.

Day 2: Hike Cabanaconde to Sangalle (5k)

Sangalle is an oasis town. It’s the most popular canyon town and we can attest to its beauty. It’s lush green and on the canyon floor. You’ll have to descend a knee-breaking 4,000 feet of switchbacks on slippery shale trails to get there BUT then you can dive into the refreshing pools and recuperate all day. 

Day 3: Hike Sangalle to Llahuar (10k)

Llahuar is teeny but known for one thing- hot springs. Really pretty and much-needed riverside hot springs. There are only 2 places to stay and during my visit, only the Llahuar hostel had access to the hot springs. 

& then take the 3 AM bus from Llahuar back to Chivay.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD. DON’T HIKE OUT. 

Climbing 4,000 feet (in elevation) out of the canyon is downright miserable. And from Llahuar unnecessary. Trade your 11k of exposed switchbacks for an early wake-up call instead. You can take a local bus from Llahuar to Chivay for 15 soles. Seriously, save yourself. You’re not missing any views on this part of the trail.

The Viewpoint Traveler (Option 2)

Maybe you’re not really into the “hiking” part of Colca Canyon but you still want to see the world’s 3rd largest canyon and spot a condor along the way. I’ve got the perfect 2-day plan for you. 

Day 1: Collectivos from Arequipa to Cabanaconde (Sleep Here)

We loved our cozy room at Arun Qurpuwasi Hospetage.

Day 2: Hike one mile outside of Cabanaconde to the mirador and return to town.

I’m not gonna lie to you. The portion of the trail just outside Cabanaconde is the only pleasant moment we had in 3 days. You’ll be blessed with stunning views along the drive including Vicunas in the nature reserve and panoramic vistas of small mountain towns. On a sunny day, Cabanaconde is even quite nice. 

& you won’t have to enter the god-forsaken canyon that makes grown-ass seasoned hikers cry. 

Yes, this option involves a lot of time in collectivos and very little hiking. But I think that regardless of whether you choose to hike the Colca Canyon or not, it’s worth seeing, at the very least.

Now you know my professional opinion about the Colca Canyon in Peru. Although I wouldn’t dare do it again… in hindsight, I am happy that I got to experience Colca Canyon. Even if it was miserable almost every step of the way. There’s just so much incredible hiking to be done in Peru and although Colca is worth a mention..it’s not at the top of my list.

Feel free to drop your recommendations or thoughts on whether the Colca Canyon was worth it in the comments!

Save Now, Read Later!

• 

•