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This Afro-Caribbean town is not on most tourists’ radar. Pressed against the notorious Darien Gap of Panama and the turquoise sea this remote destination feels like an island- although technically it’s not. Popular with divers, local Colombians, & backpackers opting to hop over to Panama via the stunning San Blas islands (we have a post for that), it’s often over-sold as a beach paradise. I think Capurgana is more than worth visiting for those in Colombia for more than a month- but there is lots you need to know before you go. So, we created this comprehensive guide to Capurgana.
For starters, Capurgana isn’t your typical beach town. The beaches themselves are really just OK.
Good for Colombian standards but also…it’s no Tayrona National Park.
Here’s everything you need to know to enjoy your time in one of the least-visited regions of Colombia.
Your Complete Budget Travel Guide to Capurgana
Getting to Capurgana
This is in itself quite an endeavor. We came from Santa Marta (not recommended) and in total the trip took around 22 hours (hike + bus + taxi + bus + minibus + boat).
Most travelers will be coming from Cartagena or Medellin (or if you’re very lucky Panama via the San Blas).
I highly recommend (if you’re okay with a little bit of party) combining your visit to Capurgana with a one-way boat crossing into or out of Panama via the San Blas. Yes, it’s expensive but it’s 100% the prettiest destination in Panama. & logistically it just makes the most sense.
If you’re coming from Colombia you’ll need to choose between the speed ferry in Necocli or Turbo to get to Capurgana. Boat is the only way to get there. Like I said- it’s so remote it really feels like an island.
We chose & recommend the ferry from Necocli. Not only is the drive time shorter but the water crossing is shorter and smoother as well.
Honestly, I’m terrified of rough water and the not-so-seaworthy vessels that many countries use as ferries. & this ride was no different. It takes about an hour and the sea can be rough. By rough I mean 15 foot swells that make the ride feel more like a roller coaster and you’ll arrive soaked from head to toe.
Cost of one-way boat Necocli to Capurgana: 85,000 COP or $22.25 per person.
Turbo, I hear, is an uglier less-likable town in addition to the downsides I already mentioned, but the ferry tickets are around 70,000 COP, so a little cheaper.
While in Necocli
Depending on your city of departure, you’ll arrive in Necocli and be able to head straight to the dock to purchase your boat ticket.
There’s really no need for reservations unless it’s December/January which is a major high season for Colombian travelers.
If you arrived before 8 AM you’ll likely depart that same day. Otherwise, you can enjoy the pretty seaside town a little longer.
While waiting to board the boats it’s important that you gather your stuff into trash bags for the ride. This way nothing gets too wet. You should also be sure to carry any valuables (& heavy items) because the trash bags going into the boat won’t be handled gently and can only weigh 10 Kilos per person. The bags you carry on however likely won’t be weighed and you’ll avoid overweight charges.
While you wait definitely gobble up some fresh juice and egg arepas from the food stands here. They were very good.
If you’re coming from Panama you’ll just do this exact route in reverse.
Things to Know About Capurgana
To make your visit to Capurgana more enjoyable keep these 3 things in mind.
1. Don’t visit on the weekend.
This is a destination popular with Colombians which means on a weekend expect crowds like summer in Yosemite. And with those Colombian crowds comes noise. A lot of it. They love to blast music until the wee hours of the morning. All I wanted was a little quiet beach time.
2. Capurgana is more expensive than you think.
I’m not sure why. Perhaps because it’s so remote. But that doesn’t really explain why the cheapest hostels are $25 per night (for two) in, shall we say, rustic conditions. Expect to pay a little more for everything here. Even the daily lunch deal is nearly twice what you’ll pay back in Medellin or Cartagena.
We spent around $45 per day for the two of us. Not including getting to the town itself.
3. Expect to do some hiking to enjoy the beaches.
On a map, the beaches all appear close together near town. But the reality is, to explore all the best beaches you’ll be doing some serious hiking. Think 10 miles per day if you’re trying to avoid spending extra money on the boat shuttles like us. The hikes were scenic and enjoyable it just would have been nice to know beforehand.
Where to Stay in Capurgana
As far as I’m concerned there are two places to stay in Capurgana.
Some people opt to spend the night in Sapzurro, but Capurgana just had so much more food options and was a more charming town in my opinion. If you do stay overnight in Sapzurro, just keep in mind you’ll need to take the shuttle boat directly from the ferry with all your stuff from Capurgana.
ACUALI ECO-HOSTEL
This should be the #1 choice for budget travelers.
In a destination that caters to the bulging budgets of San Blas Island hoppers and divers- this 85,000 COP double room is a bargain in Capurgana. It’s one of the cheapest options in town. If not the cheapest. It also has dorms.
Set in a lovely toucan and monkey-filled garden it’s also the ONLY accommodation in town where you won’t be kept awake by loud music until 4 AM. The “downside” is that it is a 10-minute walk from the town center. But everything in Capurgana is a walk. I promise it’s worth the 100 extra steps for tranquility and comfort and budget.
La Bohemia
This is another popular budget option and a good choice if Acuali is unavailable. But the breakfast isn’t included here and honestly for 8,000 COP extra I expected a little more than egg, tomato, and bread.
It’s also insanely loud until the power is cut in Capurgana sometime between 2-4 AM. The bars play music despite not a single patron staying past 12.
Where to Eat in Capurgana
Don’t expect a wide variety of Colombian fare here but you will get Caribe-Colombian food done right. Think plantains, coconut everything, patacones, & seafood.
A good rule of thumb…stay far away from the Capurgana waterfront. The restaurant by the boats served some of the worst food we’ve had in Colombia.
The Juice Lady.
Every afternoon we enjoyed a tall fresh fruit juice whipped up at her stand. We tried a few over the 4 days but NOTHING compares to her coco-limonadas.
Veronicas Seafood.
I’ll admit…we didn’t eat here. The night we were planning on splurging on seafood our stomachs were a little iffy and we went to bed early. But this sandy Beach shack is supposed to serve up the best seafood in town. I can confirm it’s fresh-caught based on the large fish and crabs we saw the fishermen carrying up before dinner.
The Lunch Shop.
This small restaurant is located in the main square nearish the teeny airport. It’s to the left of the chicken place when you’re looking directly at it. There’s no visible name.
Meal of the day for lunch. $5 for a pile of perfectly seasoned beef, rice, smashed & fried plantain, and a fresh apple drink. It was overflowing with people every day for lunch.
Posada del Gecko Pizza
For when you need to switch it up. For 30,000 COP you can get a tasty pizza large enough to fill up two hungry travelers after hiking all day.
The Local Bread Shop.
This was a late-night go-to for us. I liked the pink coconut bread (so soft), fig & caramel-filled croissants, and classic guava and cheese rolls. Super cheap and tasty. Also, very near the main square.
Fried Chicken (Pollo Broaster)
Pollo broaster is a Colombian staple. Maybe a South American staple. Global? But either way- this guy is good when fresh. This is also the cheapest beer in Capurgana at 3,000 COP ($0.75) per bottle of Aguila. Your chicken comes with a side of potatoes. Located in the main square.
Empanada Lady.
I’m obsessed with these chicken empanadas. Supposedly, she also makes fish ones that are great but she was out every time we showed up. She sets up shop in front of the house on the main walking street heading toward the pier from your hostel.
Arepa Lady.
You’ll see her grilling up these oozy concoctions every evening. Just 10 feet up the street from the woman with empanadas. Thick arepas bursting with mild cheese, grilled, and then topped with more cheese condensed milk. It’s heavy for the beach but after a day of hiking sometimes needed.
Beach Cocktails?
Ehhhhh. I’m usually all for a splurge on a worthwhile cocktail but these are not them. They were overly sweet and thick and cost nearly 30,000 COP ($8?!) apiece. Skip them and stick to beer.
Best Beaches in Capurgana
The real reason you’re here for my guide to Capurgana. My list of the best beaches in the area. Do keep in mind that at around noon every day the trash from the ocean started rolling in on the waves. The water becomes filled with plastic and garbage. Pollution people. It sucks. And it’s not even this town’s fault, it just rolls in with the tide.
- La Miel
A true tropical beach. Paying a visit to this beach (technically in Panama) is the number one thing to do while visiting Capurgana. Every single guide to Capurgana will say this is the best beach in the area and they aren’t wrong. Just try to avoid the garbage time.
2. Sapzurro
Laidback “town” beach with a lot of area for lounging in the sand. If you want a less intense hike than La Miel you can stop halfway and hang out at this beach.
3. Playa Amarillo
I put this at number 3 because it’s so difficult to get to. It really is a great beach though. I recommend making sure you only have to walk one way and organizing a boat pick up. More on that later though.
4. Hidden Beach (just a bit from Capurgana main playa).
It’s not really hidden. Just keep walking along the coast from town (or pop it into maps.me) until you see the little blue hut on the beach past all the beach bars on the main strip.
Worthwhile Things to do in Capurgana
As colorful and welcoming as this town is— let’s face it. You’re not here for the town. You’re either here for the jungle & hiking through one of the two nature reserves in the area or beaches. Either way here is our guide to Capurgana and the worthwhile things to do here.
Day Hike to Sapzurro + La Miel (Panama)
From Capurgana, you can hike 4.5-miles through a nature preserve filled with howler monkeys and toucans to Panama. No passport stamp necessary. Inside the nature preserve, you’ll enjoy a mirador of the two towns from above. You can see the ocean on both sides of you. Then you’ll enter Sapzurro. A small town with its own beaches. From here you can stay and enjoy the peaceful town OR continue on to Panama. Once on the Panama side of the preserve, you’ll get to enjoy La Miel. The most Caribbean and traditionally beautiful of all the beaches in the area. This hike takes all day. The entrance fee to the preserve is 10,000 COP per person and the entrance fee to La Miel is 3,000 COP per person.
Don’t forget to visit Cascada Diana while in Sapzurro. This was my favorite part of the hike.
If you’re feeling exhausted on the way back you can grab a shuttle boat from Sapzurro back to Capurgana for 15,000 COP per person.
I recommend wearing a sport sandal like Tevas on this hike. The trails can be muddy and are often pretty untamed. It sucked to get my shoes covered in mud and then sand when we hit the beach.
Food: The beachfront restaurants serving seafood meals for lunch are amazing! They even come with soup for $5 total. & you can pay in either USD or Colombian Pesos. You should also grab an ice cream from the white cooler vendors at Sapzurro beach.
Hike to Aguacate & Playa Amarillo
This is only worth doing if you’re committed to hiking the entire 6 miles to Playa Amarillo. If you are you will enjoy some of the best beaches in the area. Playa Aguacate however isn’t so much a beach as a rocky shoreline with pelicans doing a lot of fishing. There’s also accommodation here if you want to be really isolated.
Bring snacks and water on these excursions because your options once you arrive will be limited. Also, check & see in Aguacate if there will be boats back from Playa Amarillo because it seems sometimes they were hit or miss.
Diving
I’m not a diver. I hope to be one day but for now, I stick to the surface of the water world. Supposedly, this area is great for diving. Even beginners. We saw advertisements for diving with sharks and several of our hostel mates did day & night divers in various places around the coast.
Let me know if you have personal experience or recommendations I can share!
El Cielo Nature Reserve
The second nature reserve is less popular with tourists. Probably because there is no sandy beach at the end of the trail. There are a few waterfalls and a chance to spot Toucans, howler monkeys, bush dogs (Tayna), iguanas, and more within the park.
If you stay for 5 days you’ll have time to explore one morning. Otherwise, you’ll likely skip the reserve.
La Coquita.
This is not a beach. This is a man-made natural-fed swimming hole that sits on the ocean cliffside. Views are pretty but not too dramatic and the pools are small but quite nice on a hot day. The way our hostel explained it we were a little confused. We thought there was a beach here somewhere. The hike is about 45 minutes along the coastline past the hidden Capurgana beach. And there is a small restaurant serving delicious patacones for lunch at the pools.
The cost is 5,000 COP per person to visit. Again this is another attraction to visit if you stay 4-5 days in the area but not an absolute must-see.
Enjoy Capurganas beaches.
Obviously, you should enjoy the town beaches even if they aren’t the BEST beaches in the area. I recommend visiting early before people wake and for sunset. It’s a great place for a beer.
Should you visit Capurgana If You’re Not Coming From/Going to Panama?
Unless you have lots of time (2+ months) to spend in Colombia- I wouldn’t add Capurgana to your itinerary based on its merits alone. It’s an alright beach town, but it takes 8 or more hours to reach from the closest tourist destination.
I think your time could be better spent.
But that’s not to say I didn’t love Capurgana. It was jungly, palm-fringed, and different from everywhere else we have been in the country. There was also loads of beach hiking to do.
So if you are nearby- definitely give it a visit. If you’re crossing into or out of Panama- Absolutely. But on its own- I’d give it a pass.
If you do visit I recommend 5 full days to see everything on the itinerary above.
Capurgana is an incredibly unique Colombian destination. And although it doesn’t have the best beaches in Colombia (and often has scattered showers even in the dry season) it’s worth visiting on a long Colombian vacay or a crossing into Panama.
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