The Best 3-Week Baja Mexico Itinerary: Discover the Peninsula

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It’s road trip time. Whether you’re driving from Southern California or renting a car in Cabo this is the definitive guide to all the best destinations in the Baja Peninsula. The perfect Baja Mexico Itinerary if you will.

Baja is a desert. But not the desolate dreary flat kind of cacti haven. This desert is brimming with palm-fringed oasis, curious coyotes, a smattering of small Mexican towns with quaint cobblestone streets, and HUGE Saguaro Cacti. The winding roads make for, albeit long, but scenic drives through the landscape and plenty of opportunities for spotting local wildlife. & I haven’t even mentioned the beaches. Stunning slices of tropical paradise with calm waters for paddle boarding, clear water for snorkeling, and soft sand for lounging.

But first, let’s get you prepared for road-tripping Mexico. If you haven’t already read my blog post detailing everything you need to know before your Baja Mexico Road Trip, be sure to head there now & give it a read.

Now that you know the basics of a Mexican road trip we can look at our Baja Mexico Itinerary. Here is the lowdown on everywhere you need to pay a visit to on the Peninsula.

The Perfect Baja, Mexico Road Trip Itinerary

Most travelers to the Baja Peninsula only visit 4-5 destinations. Sometimes the limitation is time, but sometimes they just don’t realize how incredible the small towns of Baja are & all they have to offer. This is our complete guide to the Baja Peninsula curated over several trips and more than a month spent exploring its nooks and crannies.

This entire Baja Mexico Itinerary can be done in 3 weeks. It’s better to make it 4, if time isn’t a concern, to leave room for extra exploring on your own.

Tijuana

Oh TJ. This city is often what scares would be road-trippers away from the idea of ever exploring Mexico. I won’t sugarcoat it. The city is a little rough. If you’re faint of heart just pass on through. But like many large metropolia packed with a variety of immigrants, the food in Tijuana is delicious if you know where to look.

Even the hot and crispy churros served from vendors wandering between cars in the border crossing line are worth eating. Here are a few of my TJ favorites.

• Telefónica Gastro Park. A massive street food park known for it’s delicious cheap eats.
• Any taco truck selling Birria de Res.
• Caesar’s. After all the Caesar salad was invented in Tijuana. Not kidding.
• Mision 19. If you’re feeling fancy and want to see exactly what Tijuana’s stellar chefs can do.

Toll Roads: Between Tijuana and Ensenada there is a beautiful stretch of perfectly (almost) paved highway. This is the Scenic Highway. It’s not only the fastest route to Ensenada but the easiest for drivers unfamiliar with Mexican roadways. It is a toll road so be prepared to pay 40 pesos ($2) three times on your way down the coastline.

Rosarito & Puerto Neuvo

These two small towns are within an hour’s drive from the US/Mexico Border and a popular weekend trip for Southern California residents. I’ve written previous blog posts detailing the best eats in Rosarito and why you should visit the famous lobster village of Puerto Nuevo as well as an overview of the road-tripping the three towns of Baja North (Rosarito, Puerto Nuevo, Ensenada). All three can be easily explored in a day or two and are a perfect introduction to the Baja Peninsula.

Ensenada

Ensenada is a big city that feels small. Mostly because the town center is tiny and curated specifically for tourists. Most never leave those 3 main streets. But unless you’re looking for obnoxious bars with watered-down drinks and overpriced tourist food and knick-nacks I would avoid the main street.

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All liquor in Mexico is a lower alcohol content than in the United States. Usually ranging from 28%-35%. In the U.S. most range from 35%-40% alcohol. Keep that in mind before you purchase any bottles.

As far as attractions go the town is relatively barren. The construction is modern and seems disjointed from the rest of Mexico. There is a blowhole called La Bufadora about 30-minutes south of the city, but I wouldn’t say you need to make the journey.

Best Eats in Ensenada

I spent 2 days in Ensenada, mostly for eating. Okay, completely for eating. & this city has some of the best damn street food on the peninsula. Hands down, the best seafood tacos in Baja. Here’s where you have to eat.

• El Parian. This bright pink breakfast establishment is serving cheap breakfast favorites like chilaquiles, huevos ranchero, and machaca omeletes. It’s much like your favorite diner back home, just Mexican style.
• Tacos Fenix (Fish & Shrimp). If you only eat at one place I recommend make it this one. This street food stand makes the best tacos in Baja & I don’t say that lightly. Perfectly fried, right before your eyes, the shrimp and fish tacos are simple (& cheap) and can be topped with a vareity of salsas, pickled toppings, and slaws.
• La Comadre. Your non-seafood choice. Just off of mainstreet this small restaurant is a local favorite. The tacos change daily and the meat is ladled from large red clay pots into large handmade tortillas. I loved the Birria.
• Mariscos El Guero. If you’re a seafood fanatic you’re in the right place. This cevichria has plates of the freshest fish plucked from the waters of Baja. The mixed ceviche is huge and piled with squid, fish, shrimp, and uni. Definitely enough to serve two.
• Hussong’s Cantina is not known for its food. But it is the oldest bar in Baja and has a fun vibe. It’s a tourist attraction (there’s another location in Las Vegas) but if you feel like grabbing a cold beer or Margarita and being serenaded by a full Mexican band it’s a good option.

If you’re looking for a place to car-camp in Ensenada look no further. You can sleep in any free parking space. We chose the roadside near the Hotel Cortez Baja Inn.

Valle de Guadalupe

The Napa Valley of Mexico. Without the Napa Valley price tag. The Valle de Guadalupe has been gaining in both international and local reputation as a top wine destination. About an hour’s drive from Ensenada, the dusty dirt roads of Valle de Guadalupe house over 70 local wineries. Some are better than others. Most visitors stay at a lovely Airbnb or guesthouse and hire a driver to winery hop for an afternoon.

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We chose a more DIY approach, driving ourselves, and only visited two wineries in the area. A word of warning: The wineries are not close together. Often, you’ll drive 20-minutes on loose dirt and narrow roadways to reach them. There’s not really a town center. Aside from the wineries, this area is pretty undeveloped.

Best Winery in Valle de Guadelupe

Definitely, Vena Cava. I know we only visited two but this winery came highly recommended to us and did not disappoint. They specialize in natural wine but have a wide selection of white, red, and a very tasty food truck in their sprawling outdoor space overlooking the vineyard. The tasting room is inside a man-made cavelike structure built from the hull of ships.

If you’re looking for a few other wineries to add to your list…

• Lomita
• Finca Carrodilla

Best Food in Valle de Guadalupe

Ochentos Pizza. Although technically outside the maze of wineries in “town”, this local pizza joint is truly unique. The pizza is good but the ambiance is wonderful. You’ll traverse several dirt roads and a steep cobblestoned driveway to reach it but if you visit at sunset you’ll be rewarded with views of the whole valley. There’s always live music, a small zoo of animals outside (mostly goats, ducks, and sheep), and locally crafted beer.

La Lobera

Now your long driving days begin. La Lobera makes for a great pit stop after driving hours through rolling hills of cacti on single-lane roads. Unfortunately, La Lobera requires a 4X4 vehicle. This sand-colored stone formation holds a pool of turquoise water and a pile of sea lions seeking refuge from the sea. It’s about 2 miles on pitted sand-covered roads to reach it though.

Last Gas Fill-Up: Get gas at the Pemex in El Rosario de Arriba. This will start the long stretch through the uninhabited desert. There are no gas stations for 250 KM. Sometimes you can find random locals selling gas from barrels on the side of the road if you’re desperate but there’s no way to guarantee it’s good gas for your vehicle. Just fill up here and you’ll be fine.

Bahia de Los Angeles

Welcome to the warm bathwater shores of the Sea of Cortez. Bahia de Los Angeles is a small scattered town with several campable beaches where you can pull right up onto the pebbly sand. Playa La Gringa is the best of the bunch. You’ll pass by all the rest on your way to Gringa so you decide for yourself which you prefer.

This beach is great for fishing, swimming, and of course paddleboarding. Just be sure to watch out for the stingrays that are scattered all over the East Coast of Baja. Just shuffle your feet in the shallows to avoid stepping on them.

Bahia de Los Angeles is also known for Whale Shark tours during the proper season. Just inquire anywhere you see a giant sign picturing a whale shark.

Playa La Gringa is not always monitored but sometimes locals come to collect trash and ask for a donation to stay on the beach overnight. We suggest a donation of 100 pesos.

On your way into town be sure to stop at the lookout point before you descend to see the bay in all its bright blue glory. & if you’re looking for a place to nab some Sea of Cortez seafood check out Restaurant Alejandrinas.

Ojo de Liebre Lagoon

Whales. Lots of them. We skipped this Lagoon because, alas, it was not whale season. But if you want to see humpback whales on your Baja road trip (& get insanely close to them) this is the place to be.

This area is world-renowned for its freakishly friendly whales. Researchers and tourists love them.

San Ignacio

A true oasis in the desert. This region of Baja is desolate. Scattered with hundreds of varietals of cacti, dusty towns, and an unbearably flat landscape. San Ignacio comes out of nowhere. Vibrantly green and carpeted in tall date palms offering the only shade for miles around this small city thrives alongside the life-giving river. The town square is cobblestoned and overlooked by a massive Spanish missionary church.

You won’t need more than a day to bask in the shade and eat date-flavored everything. From milkshakes to date chicken to pan datil (date bread) the date palms that shade the town drive the cuisine in the area.

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I wasn’t blown away by the food in San Ignacio outside of dates. But the small breakfast joint at the foot of the church had great classic Mexican breakfast fare and at night a hot dog stand often sets up out front.

Santa Rosalia

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Back on the East Coast! Santa Rosalia is a fairly large city for Baja with…you guessed it, a large lovely town center. In case you haven’t picked up on that it’s kind of a trademark for Baja. We didn’t stay too long in Santa Rosalia (because the beaches awaited us) but there are tons of street vendors selling agua frescas (juices, flavored waters, horchata) and the best bakery in Baja. It’s called El Boleo and for under 20 pesos you can snag some of the tastiest local Baja pastries. My favorites were topped with pineapple.

Mulege

This is the beginning of Baja’s best beaches. Well, 30-minutes south of here anyways. Mulege is not a beach town. It is, however, a popular tourist town due to its tasty local restaurants, close proximity to colorful canyons decorated with ancient cave paintings, and a scenic mission (church) overlooking a carpet of verdant palms.

Best Mulege Restaurants & Attractions

• Mulege Brewing Company. For a few beers.
• Dany Restaurant. The best food in town. Also heavily air conditioned.
• Mision Santa Rosalia de Mulege. A scenic overlook worth the short drive out of town.
• Faro de Mulege. Scenic lighthouse by the water.
• Restaurant Bar Los Equipales. Another great restairnat. They serve a lot of Machaca, however. Be aware that Machaca is dried beef. Not for everyone’s palate.

I recommend parking near the lighthouse directly on the beach. It’s not a good beach for swimming or other water activities but it’s outside the bustle of town and safe enough to sleep with all your doors open.

Best Beaches Near Mulege

I would venture to say that these particular beaches are not only the best in Mulege but the best in all of Baja. Crystal clear water, soft beige sand, tropical fish, and camping directly on the sand. It doesn’t get better than that. Positioned on the Bay of Conception these sands are even more protected from the mild waves of the Sea of Cortez than anywhere else.

Accessible via dirt pull-offs from the main highway you’ll often see the beaches coming. These are the names of a few favorites.

Playa Santispac

It costs 200 pesos for the night but this beach is completely protected from the waves. Great for early morning paddleboarding or kayaking. You can also easily reach Hidden Beach, also known as Playa Escondida, from here.

Playa La Escondida

Not to be confused with “hidden beach” this stretch of sand is further south. A crescent-shaped bay with turquoise waters and thatched huts offer a little shade for beach-goers.

Playa el Burro

One of the more developed beaches in the area. The shores are crowded with thatched homes for rent on Airbnb and don’t leave much room for van parking. This beach is great for a swim but if you’re looking to van camp I would opt for one of the others.

Playa el Coyote

Another great option for camping. Also offers some thatched huts for shade and is a favorite of the locals which typically means you’ll be sharing the sand with families BBQ-ing and blasting music into the evening.

Loreto

One of my biggest disappointments was not getting to fully experience the city of Loreto. It was simply too hot for us to try and stay. From what I hear this big beachy town offers a lot in terms of marine exploration.

If you’re looking for a complete guide to Loreto click the link here.

San Javier

This is one of the oldest and best-preserved missions in the Baja region. The same cannot be said about its roads. Getting to the summit of the small mountain and wandering the quaint streets is worthwhile IF you are very confident in your driving skills and maybe have either high clearance or 4WD.

San Carlos

San Carlos is much like the rest of the Baja west coast. Slightly charmless. But you’re not here for the town. You’re here for the whales. Visit during whale season and this is a bustling hub filled with open restaurants and street food. Outside of whale season, it’s a ghost town.

You’ll have to book a tour to see them properly but this is the home base for exploring Magdelena Bay.

Pit Stop: In the nearly non-existent town of La Pasadita is a roadside empanada and burrito shack sitting right next to an OXXO. Do yourself a favor and stop in for lunch. You get two bean burritos & a fresh juice for 50 pesos. The fresh empanadas are phenomenal as well.

La Paz

No argument La Paz is my favorite city on the Baja Peninsula. It’s also the largest and most frequented by local tourists. It has the prettiest white sand beaches, local farmer’s markets, a foodie scene, and lovely sunsets on the Malecon. It’s easy to get overwhelmed in La Paz because of its sheer size but I recommend focusing your efforts on the region near the waterfront, also known as Zona Central. The surrounding area of La Paz has fewer restaurants and walking streets and is far more industrial.

Best Attractions & Food in La Paz

• Doce Cuarenta Coffee & Bakery. If you’re looking for an LA quality coffee shop with tasty guava pastries. Expect US prices.
• Tortas la Ventana. Local cheap sandwhich stop.
• Sanctuary of Our Lady Guadalupe. Scenic catholic church with a picturesque dome.
• Museum of Art. If that’s your kind of thing.
• Il Rustico. Authentic Italian thin crusted pizza joint with massive calzones and lovely garden seating perfect for date night in La Paz. Seriously, I wouldn’t recommend you get pizza in Mexico if it wasn’t out of this world good.
• Bismark-Cito: The Lobster House. Ocean front views and amazing seafood.
• The Malecon. Stroll the seaside street enjoying the marine themed monuments and perfect sunset spots. Also the street art La Paz is known for.
• Farmer’s Market: Thursday’s and Saturday’s near the Malecon.
• Playa Balandra. This is the best beach in Baja. Perfect white silk sand, unbelieveable water clarity and filled with marine wildlife, you have to try snorkeling at this beach. It’s also famous for an oddly shaped rock but I found that much less impressive than the beach itself. Plan to arrive early (6AM) if you want to score a parking spot. There’s also a short hike that offers great panoramic views of the entire bay.
• Playa el Tecolote. A good back-up if Balandra is too full. Tecolote has many loud beach restaurants and choppy waves hitting shore but it also is a haven for pelicans early morning. Arrive early to watch them diving for fish in the hundreds.

La Paz is famous for its chocolate clams. Don’t freak out just yet, it’s not candied seafood. It’s just a varietal of clam. Large chocolate brown shells bursting with chewy clam meat. You can eat them raw or grilled but you have to give them a shot at least once in La Paz.

Todos Santos

Once a hippy haven this town is quickly turning commercial. That’s not to say I didn’t love my time spent there, it’s just not the quiet surfer bohemian town it once was. Now it’s got more of an LA hipster vibe. Lots of art boutiques, expensive souvenirs, and fancy upscale restaurants and hotels crammed into a tiny seaside fishing village.

Best Attractions & Food in Todos Santos.

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• Choripanes. The best $2.50 sandwich you’ll ever find. Smoked sausages paired with fresh grilled panela cheese, tomatoes, onions, salsa, and chimmichuri.
• Frutas y Verduras “Mi Gente”. The best shop to grab some cheap fresh produce for beach snacks.
• Late-Night Street Food. The town park sidewalks crowd with vendors selling hotdogs, tacos, agua frescas, and my personal favorite tostilocos (chips topped with salsa, fresh corn, and cheese).
• Tortugueros Las Playitas. During hatching season this turtle conservation group allows tourists to help participate in the turtle release programs each evening. It’s a personal bucketlist item of mine to release a baby turtle into the ocean one day.
• Punta Lobos. This is a fishing beach. Huge crashing waves and LOTS of locals drinking, eating, and getting thier cars stuck in the sand. At around 4 PM you can buy fish to cook straight off the beach here. I enjoyed the laid back vibe but it’s not a particularly quiet place to sleep.
• San Pedrito Beach. A longtime favorite of vanlifers this beach is the best in the area for privacy and quiet camping.
• Cerritos Beach. You’ll have to pay for parking and it’s the bussiest beach in the area but it also has a restroom, surfboard rentals, and vendors selling fresh seafood and fruit on the sand. There’s a reason for it’s crowds.

Reaching these beaches from Todos Santos requires driving on sandy dirt roads. You don’t need 4WD, but be cautious.

Cabo San Lucas

If I’m sharing my own personal opinions here…Cabo sucks. Unless you are here for Spring Break or a Bachelor/Bachelorette party there’s nothing for you to do in Cabo. The food is mediocre and expensive, there’s nowhere to car camp, and it’s filled with drunken tourists. Sure you can see the famous sandstone arches but you’ll have to pay through the nose to get there. & all the best beaches IN Cabo are crowded and only accessible by an expensive boat tour.

Instead, skip it and head to Santa Maria Beach.

Just North of Cabo, this gem of a beach is free to visit and has some of the best snorkeling in Baja just off its shores. We cheated and entered the electric blue waters with a slice of white bread that was quickly devoured by tropical fish the size of my head. You can’t stay overnight but it’s definitely worth a day trip.

San Jose del Cabo

The other Cabo. San Jose del Cabo isn’t known for its two-for-one margaritas, however. Instead, San Jose del Cabo boasts art boutiques, a cobblestoned walking district with colorful pennants flapping in the wind, and Baja Brewing Company (the best beer in Baja, sorry Tecate). There are plenty of other travelers here but not typically of the van variety. It’s a higher class kind of tourism and often the prices reflect that.

Where to wild camp: On the outskirts of town is a hidden local sunset spot called La Playita. You can park atop the small cliff overlooking the dark sand and waves below for epic sunset and sunrise views.

Warning! The road to Nine Palms is no longer public. Even with a 4WD vehicle you’re not technically allowed to traverse that section of coastline. Which means you’ll be required to drive toward Santa Anita instead.

As of 2021

Santiago

Blink and you’ll miss this quaint town. For this adventure, you’ll need either some ballsy driving skills or a 4WD vehicle. Accessible from this small farming community is Sol de Mayo also known as Rancho Ecologico Sol de Mayo. After traversing the treacherous roads up the canyon to Cañon de la Zorra you’ll find a small petting zoo area with a cascading waterfall perfect for chasing away the heat of the day with a cool dip. Along the way, you’ll also be rewarded with panoramic views of the palm-fringed town smack dab in the middle of the desert.

Just follow the roadside signs to “Cascade” & you’ll find your way.

Cabo Pulmo

As I mentioned above, the road South of Cabo Pulmo is closed to the public forcing you to enter via the North entrance. But for those willing to wander off-the-beaten-path you’ll be rewarded with the best snorkeling in Baja. This protected swath of reef is difficult to reach and therefore in pristine condition. To visit the National Park you’ll need to pay park fees and hire a snorkel or scuba guide to swim on the reef.

Los Barriles

Fun Fact: Los Barriles is the number one kite surfing destination in all of North America. It’s kinda a big deal. Upon arrival, you’ll be greeted by gale-force winds and take one look at the impossibly long and flat stretch of beach and you’ll understand why. For non-kite surfers, there is plenty to do in the area as well. For starters, shopping. I’m not a big shopper but Los Barriles has some great locally made goods like woven plant holders, indigenous masks, and rugs.

If adventure is more your thing ATVs are big here. There are tons of rental shops offering ATVs for reasonable prices that you can take barreling down the beach.

Mexicali

Both times I was in Baja, Mexicali was over 110 degrees (F). So I didn’t go. But I highly recommend you add Mexicali to your itinerary on your way out of Mexico. The border crossing lines are shorter and you’ll get to see an entire new chunk of roadway rather than repeating the toll road from Ensenada to Tijuana.

San Felipe

On the road to Mexicali, you’ll pass through the beach town of San Felipe. I didn’t get to go but I had Playa Hawaii on my “must-see” list. If you pay it a visit I would love to hear how it is. The photos are all of crystal clear blue water (like the rest of the east coast) and wide-open beach parking.

Planning your Baja Mexico Itinerary

The Baja Peninsula doesn’t have a lot of roadways traversing its desert landscape. This means if you don’t plan your route carefully you’ll end up stopping in the same towns you explored on your trip down South. You should plan to hit about half your destinations on the way down to Cabo and then half on your return trip up the Peninsula, that way you don’t have endlessly long drives punctuated with stops in towns you’ve already seen. You gotta break it up a bit.

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Here’s where we slept on our way down the Peninsula.

• Ensenada
• La Lobera
• Bahia de Los Angeles
• San Ignacio
• Loreto (Nearby Beaches)
• San Carlos
• Todos Santos
• San Jose Del Cabo

& here’s where we slept on the way back to the United States.

• San Jose del Cabo
• La Paz
• Mulege (nearby beaches)
• Ojo de Liebre
• San Felipe
• Mexicali

This way the drives were broken up more evenly. Because those long desolate roads get mind-numbingly boring otherwise.

Map of Baja Mexico Itinerary

Only Have 2 Weeks?

If you only have two weeks to road trip the Baja Peninsula I recommend focusing on Baja California Sur. An example Baja Mexico itinerary would be…

• Ensenada
• San Ignacio
• Mulege
• Loreto
• La Paz
• Todos Santos
• San Jose Del Cabo

Consider Vanlife for Baja Mexico

If you’ve been waiting for your sign to convert a campervan for epic trips all over the US, Canada, and Mexico. This is it.

Since we built our van in 2020 for under $4,000 (here’s how) we’ve traveled to nearly every single national park in the United States, traversed the Baja Peninsula, and circled the US looking for the best “American” foodie stops. It’s been the cheapest and easiest way to traverse the United States and I recommend it to anyone with the work flexibility to give it a shot.

Fun Fact: Utah & Florida were our favorite states for vanlife.

Here’s how you can get on the road in 6-weeks.

Or just check out my vanlife page for more inspiration.

Save This Baja Mexico Itinerary For Later!

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