The Best Sulawesi Itinerary: Torajan Funerals and Paradise Islands

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Sulawesi is the Indonesian Island you didn’t know you needed to visit. Incredible and interesting funeral practices of remote tribal communities, pristine white sand beaches with hidden vibrant snorkel sights, and an “off-the-beaten-path” vibe that’s so rare to track down in today’s super connected world. I’ll admit, I still love a good relaxing stay in Bali. But I’m a full-time traveler, and Bali is a place where I can unwind by the sea and relish a little bit of “Western” comforts without the crazy price tag of going all the way home to the United States. Sulawesi is different. It’s a place for intrepid travelers.

We spent about 3 weeks bussing around this island, enjoying the local cuisine and beautiful varied landscapes. While we constantly wished for more time, our itinerary did cover all the best parts of Sulawesi. Tanah Toraja is essential for cultural experiences, the Togian/Togean Islands are often known as “The Poor Man’s Raja Ampat” because of their marine diversity and stunning beaches, and Tangkoko National Park is home to unique fauna like the endangered Spectral Tarsier and Black Crested Macaque.

Here’s how you can experience all that Sulawesi has to offer.

First, Addressing Some Important Sulawesi Questions

Is Sulawesi a “Touristy” Island?

Nope! We’ve visited around 20 different Indonesian islands, including Sumatra, Flores, Java, Lombok, and, of course, Bali. I found Sulawesi to be one of the least touristy islands in Indonesia. There are vast areas without much tourist development, and while it’s still easy to find places to stay in Sulawesi, your options are limited.

Is Sulawesi an Expensive Island to Visit?

Nope! Sulawesi is a very affordable island. For two people, we spent about $50 per day to travel the whole island in 2024. You can expect to pay about the same following the itinerary below.

Is Sulawesi a Muslim Island?

Indonesia, as a whole, is a Muslim country. Sulawesi, falls somewhere in the middle of Lombok (Muslim) + Bali (Not-Muslim). Certain areas of the country, Manado and Tanah Toraja, for example, have large Christian populations, which means it is much easier to find beer, and you don’t have to dress as conservatively. Makassar is the most conservative on this itinerary and I recommend dressing accordingly. You do not need a headscarf unless you are directly entering a mosque, but I would not wear shorts when exploring in town.

What to Expect in Sulawesi as a Traveler

Sulawesi is an “off-the-beaten-path” Indonesian island. This means you will not have the same amenities as islands like Bali or even Java. It’s is much more like Sumatra and Lombok in terms of food/lodging and ease of transport. Here are a few commonly asked questions about what it’s like to travel in the country.

Can I Get Western Food in Sulawesi (for the picky eaters)?

Ehhhh, in the 7/11! Outside of Makassar and Manado, Sulawesi has very little in the way of “Western” or international cuisine. That being said, there is a genuinely excellent pizza place in Makassar that I will recommend in my itinerary below. Fortunately, most of the cuisine in Sulawesi is chicken and rice-based, so travelers (even picky ones) should be able to stomach it.

What to Expect from Accommodation in Sulawesi?

This is not an island where you’ll be able to live in luxury. Even mid-range hotels (or expensive ones if you can find them) offer pretty basic amenities. I often found the best comfort in homestays or guesthouses. I highly recommend springing for rooms with an A/C or fan, as Sulawesi is remarkably hot. We spent no more than $20 per night on places to stay.

Planning Your Trip to Sulawesi

When Is the Best Time of Year to Plan Your Visit?

August is the absolute best time of year to visit Sulawesi because of the funerals. If you can’t swing August but still want a chance to see some of the funeral traditions of the RantePao region, you should visit between July and October.

How Long Do You Need in Sulawesi to Plan a Proper Trip?

3 to 4 weeks at a minimum. The transport times between each destination in Sulawesi are incredibly long. The island is the third largest by landmass in the entire country.

What is the Easiest/Cheapest Way to Reach Sulawesi?

You can reach Sulawesi by boat or plane from the nearby islands of Bali or Java. If you’re committed to the boat route, just know that it will take over one week on the slow boat from Java. We didn’t have the time to commit to this journey, so we instead opted for the slightly more expensive but painless flight from Denpasar, Bali, to Makassar, Sulawesi. You can also fly relatively cheaply from Java to Makassar or Manado.

Do I Need My Own Transportation to Visit Sulawesi??

In my places online I encountered people who claimed you couldn’t travel through Sulawesi without your own car or motorbike. I disagree. We traveled the country by bus, and while it was FAR from comfortable, it still seems like the easiest travel option at the moment.

Roads are really bad and travel times are LONG. If you were driving yourself, you would likely have to break up the 12-hour drives into multiple days and find accommodation along the way. Not the easiest thing to do. It would also be exhausting.

That being said, we DID and do recommend renting motorbikes to get around the rural areas of Rante Pao, Tentena, and Tomohon. Otherwise, you’ll have to shell out extra money for a driver to reach the sights in those regions.

But for all travel between cities, there are buses and public transport.

Planning to Visit Raja Ampat?

Sulawesi is the gateway to Raja Ampat. The diver’s paradise. Raja Ampat is about as remote as it gets. It’s also quite expensive when compared to other Indonesian islands. But for what it’s hiding underwater…totally worth it. Manado, in the North of Sulawesi, is one of only a handful of airports that fly directly to Sorong, Papua (the airport you need to fly to reach Raja Ampat).

Read More: We have a couple of guides to help traveler’s plan a trip to Raja Ampat on a budget.

If you’re interested in visiting the islands, I highly recommend combining the two trips. Just keep in mind that a typical travel visa for Indonesia lasts only 30 days. In this situation, I would recommend around 20 days in Sulawesi & 10 in Raja Ampat.

Our Perfect 3-4 Week Sulawesi Itinerary

Sulawesi is a large and awkwardly shaped island sandwiched between Bali and Borneo. It can be difficult to see all of it in one go, not just due to the painfully long bus rides and poor roadways but also because of the island’s shape. We chose to travel from South to North. You could also do this itinerary in reverse.

Only have 2 weeks? You can still plan a trip to Sulawesi, but you’ll need to cut the monstrous island in half. I recommend either seeing the funerals in Toraja and the city of Makassar in the south OR the Togian Islands and Tangkoko National Park in the North. We’ll get to the itinerary details below.

Makassar

Getting from the Airport to the City

You can either take a taxi into town for about $11 OR walk past the taxi stands to the buses out and to the left of the exit. There is an airport bus that takes about an hour and will drop you near enough to the homestay you can walk. This is a much cheaper option.

While our trip to Makassar was short, I enjoyed the city. I felt like it had more going on than Manado in the North. There were markets to stroll, a seaside to walk along, and several sights worth visiting. It also helped that the place we stayed in Makassar was AMAZING. The most caring and helpful homestay hosts in the country.

Best Things to See in Makassar

• 99 Domes Mosque. An iconic brightly-colored mosque on the sea.
• Walk the streets for markets and more!
• Palua Samalona. This is a small island just a few miles from Makassar’s Losari Beach (another place you could visit). We did not go because we heard that coming from other tropical islands like Bali it can be underwhelming. But if you’re interested in a beach day…now’s your chance to take it.
• Warung Mama Muda, La Piccola Italy (the incredible Pizza I mentioned above, just trust me), and Warkop Hai Hong have some great food.

Where to Stay in Makassar: Ge JacMart Homestay

Ge Jacmart Homestay was wonderful. As I already mentioned, they were incredible hosts, offering to drive us to the airport and arranging easy pick-up. They gave us honest advice on places to see and skip on the island and had lots of hidden gems to share. The place was also clean and affordable!

Where NOT to Stay in Makassar

Rarely do I give advice on where “not” to stay, but unfortunately, Legenda Beril Hostel is listed as the number one place on booking.com. We stayed there for one night, and I’ll just quote my review here.

“A/C didn’t really work & room was very hot. The staff heavily pressured booking a tour for Tana Toraja that would have cost 200+ dollars!!! The actual cost of guides and such is about $10 per day if you book in the town itself. They also refused to buy us bus tickets and couldn’t provide info to us on the correct bus terminal to buy them ourselves. instead they gave us the phone number of the same tour operator who tried to sell us the scam $200 tour. he overcharged us for the bus by 100k rupiah per person. The rooms here are fine but there are WAY better options in Makassar and places who won’t try to scam you.”

My Booking.com Review of Legenda Beril Hostel

Makassar Tip: Avoid booking tours for Rante Pao in the city of Makassar. Companies often promote this as a good deal, but it also steals money from the Rante Pao community members who act as guides to the funeral ceremonies. It’s definitely NOT cheaper for you either.

Rante Pao/Tanah Toraja

Getting to Rante Pao from Makassar

The bus from Makassar to Rante Pao takes 12-14 hours and costs around $12.50 per ticket. You should book your ticket yourself at the bus agency on the outskirts of town for a fair price. I recommend choosing the daytime bus because the roadside views are incredible on this journey. Your homestay can help you get there.

Rante Pao is the region tucked into the Central/South Central mountains of Sulawesi, where the Torajan people practice some of the most unique funeral rites in the world. You’ve probably heard of this. The funerals are one of the main reasons tourists find Sulawesi in the first place. I’ve written a full blog post with all the details on how to visit these funerals ethically.

Best Things to See in Rante Pao

• The Funerals.
• Manene Ceremony. If you’re here during the late weeks of August.
• Motorbike all through the mountain communities. The entire region is beautiful and you should spend a day exploring on your own.
• Puncak Buntu Pune. An excellent example of the unique structure of the homes in Tanah Toraja.
• Lemo and Londa cliffside and cave burial sites.
• Cafe Aras. A great spot to try local food.

Where to Stay in Rante Pao

Here are two options depending on how comfortable on motorbike you are. I highly recommend renting a motorbike to fully experience Rante Pao.

Tentena

Many people consider skipping Tentena and heading straight to the Togian Islands. But that, because of the lengthy distance, is a grueling bus journey. Actually, 2 bus journeys + a short bemo ride, in total about 22 hours of continuous travel. Why not stop and enjoy the countryside in Tentena to break up the ride.

Getting to Tentena from Rante Pao

Yet another long bus ride. Your homestay host can arrange tickets for you. The ride is about 14-17 hours and if you can…time your ride for the night bus. Although they are more dangerous on the winding roads, it’s worth it to not be crammed in with chickens and motorcycles for hours on end. There is a daily bus but the large one is only 4 times per week and costs about $15 per person.

If your plan is to just spend one night in Tentena to sleep and not see any of the attractions, you will have to take the daytime bus to Tentena from Rante Pao to ensure you arrive with enough time to sleep and then wake up early to catch the bus onward to Ampana.

Tentena is a great destination for those looking to experience nature and unwind.

Best Things to See in Tentena

• Saluopa waterfall. Stunning. Worth the 10 KM trek or motorbike journey.
• Poso Lake. The third largest lake in Indonesia and well worth a relaxing “beach” day.
• Head to the local market. I’m a sucker for the local market anywhere. The ones near Tentena and Manado are particularly bustling and unique. Mostly because Sulawesi is known for its penchant for eating everything. Bats, dogs, frogs, etc.

Where to Stay in Tentena: Victory Hotel

This homestay is another super comfortable A/C equipt lodging with a welcoming host who can help you catch the right buses to Ampana. Free breakfast! You can’t book this place online, but you can message them and reserve a room OR just turn up. But I recommend messaging them on WhatsApp because they picked us up at the bus station for free.

Ampana

Getting to Ampana from Tentena

This leg of the journey costs about ~$10 per person total. From Victory Hotel you’ll hop into a small Bemo (shared bus) that will drive you to Poso. From the side of the road in Poso, you’ll hail a shared cab for about $6-7 per person to drive you the rest of the way to Ampana. The earlier you reach Poso the better.

Ampana offers little other than transport to the Togians. Don’t plan to stay longer than necessary.

Where to Stay in Ampana

Both “decent” options are poorly rated and don’t have much to offer guests. Rooms were enough, however, and for a single night, it’s not the worst. You’ll notice the prices of places to stay in Ampana are pretty outrageous for what you’re getting, especially when you consider the rest of your time in Sulawesi.

Togian Islands

Getting to the Togian Islands from Ampana

Transportation to and from the Togians is regular but not daily for all schedules. There is a speedboat and a public boat option. The public boat travels from Ampana to Wakai to Ketupat to Malenge to P. Papan. The speed boat travels to Bomba and then Wakai. From your chosen arrival port, your accommodation will pick you up in a small boat that you arrange with them in advance. Be sure to choose the post closest to your accommodation.

While the speed boat runs daily, the public ferry only runs to the islands Monday/Wednesday/Saturday. The most up-to-date schedule can be found here.

Fondly referred to as the “Poor Man’s Raja Ampat”, the Togian Islands are a collection of islands scattered within the weird “arms” of Sulawesi. They offer excellent snorkeling, diving, and beautiful beaches without much development. In fact, there is no wifi whatsoever. It’s the perfect place to disconnect and unwind for a few days to a week.

As for the “poor man’s Raja Ampat” claim? I have been to both, and while the Togians have A LOT of underwater wonders, price-wise…I found it quite similar to Raja Ampat in the end. Maybe just because it’s cheaper to reach the Togian Islands. But Raja Ampat’s underwater world is no-contest better.

Which Islands to Visit

A typical trip to the Togians includes a couple (2-3) islands.

• Divers should visit Una Una. This is the best island for diving.
• Malenge Island. Incredible fan coral and snorkeling.
• Kadidiri Island has the most comfort and amenities for a relaxing beach stay. Also a great main beach.

As for things to do/see? Alongside general snorkeling and diving, we loved…

• California Reef. A beautiful reef out in the middle of the ocean.
• Karina Beach’s carpet of coral.
• Jellyfish Lake. A place to swim with stingless jellyfish.

Transportation Between Islands

When hopping from island to island your next accommodation will come pick you up. This means (due to the lack of Wifi), it’s vital you organize this in advance. You will likely have no way to reach them once you actually arrive in the Togian Islands.

Read More: We wrote a more detailed guide to help you plan the perfect trip to the Togian Islands! This guide includes ferry information, snorkel tour + dive costs, and tips for what to expect when you arrive.

Good Places to Stay in the Togians

You’ll notice the accommodation in the Togian is more expensive than elsewhere in the country. This is because all your food is included in the rate. These are remote islands without restaurants; you eat where you sleep.

The place you choose to stay in the Togian islands has a huge impact. You’ll be taking all your tours, eating all your meals, and relying on them for amenities during your entire stay. The better places to stay/dive resorts often have a 3-day minimum booking policy. Here are some of our recommendations by island…

If you’re on a super budget, the best place to stay is Sunset Beach. She offers cheap tours and bare-bones wooden shacks for two on the beach. Food is basic. It’s only ~$30 per night for two people. There’s also quite good snorkeling right out in front of the beach.

Una Una accommodation is not available online. There are two dive centers/places to stay on the island, and both are pretty comparable in amenities and price.

Gorontalo

Getting to Gorontalo from the Togian Islands

You have several options to reach Gorontalo.

Option 1: Public overnight ferry from Wakai. It leaves Monday + Thursday at 8 PM. Generally seen as the best option. This is what we did.

Option 2: Travel back to Ampana and take a VERY long overland journey around Sulawesi. Fine if you’re not pressed for time and tired of the excruciating bus rides at this point.

Option 3: Travel back to Ampana and then to Luwuk Airport. From here there are two direct flights to Manado per week. Every day flights still go to Manado, but they have a short layover in Makassar. This option is great to save time and skip over Gorontalo. Or skip over the northern area entirely and head straight back to Makassar.

For more information read our full Togian Island guide.

This is a stopover on your way to the northern national parks and big cities. We didn’t even spend a single night in Gorontalo. We just arrived via boat and then immediately got a car/bus to Manado. I recommend you do the same.

One Attraction You SHOULD NOT Do in Gorontalo

Whale Shark Snorkeling.

I know it can be tempting when all the signs and tour operators tell you it’s ethical and they aren’t feeding the sharks. But spoiler. They are. We visited the beach where they offer whale shark snorkeling and were shocked to find that the whale sharks were literally 50 feet offshore. Loads of boats crowded around on top of them, people carelessly touched them, and the whale itself was clearly fed to stay in the shallows here. Even if it was an okay environment for the sharks (it wasn’t) it’s a horrible experience for the snorkeler.

If you’re interested in whale shark snorkeling try the Maldives instead. Trust me, the Maldives can also be traveled on a budget and I’ll teach you how.

Alternative Stop: Tomohon

This was the one place in Sulawesi that we did not quite make it to. We actually only heard about it after the fact. Tomohon is a stunning jungle community located near the Lokon Volcano. There are lovely vistas, waterfall hikes, and, most impressively, a smoking crater worth seeing if you have an extra day or two to dedicate. To see most of the attractions in Tomohon, you will need to hire a motorbike or driver. It’s very close to Manado.

The Tomohon Market is one of the most famous attractions in this city, but it’s not for everyone. Locals sell all kinds of freshly slaughtered meat, such as Bats, Dogs, Rats, etc. The ethnic group Minahasa (which populates this region) is known for eating ALL the animals they can catch in the vast jungles of North Sulawesi. If you’re interested in seeing what that looks like, the local market is the place to go.

Manado

Getting to Manado from Gorontalo (or Tomohon)

Yet ANOTHER lengthy bus ride. About 12 hours. You know the drill by now. If you have a small group or you can band together with one on the long ferry ride, it might be better to split a car to Manado. Depending on when the ferry arrives in Gorontalo, you might be cutting it close for the bus.

Manado held no interest for us. The only reason we visited the city in the first place was to use it as a jumping-off destination for Tangkoko National Park. We used our time here to get a fresh SIM card, laundry, rest in a slightly better hotel, and recooperate from the long bus rides. The only thing missing was food.

The highlights in Sulawesi are Tanah Toraja/Rante Pao, Tentena, Togial Islands, and Tangkoko National Park. Everything else is pretty much just a place to re-group along the way.

Best Things to See in Manado

We did none of these things in Manado, so I can’t vouch for their authenticity. But we considered visiting the local market (Manado is known for the

• Tunan Waterfalls.
• Malalayang Beach, Paal Beach, or any of the other beaches scattered around the peninsula head. Most take a little effort or your own transport to get to.
• Bunaken Island National Park (more information shared below).
• Motorbike around the coastline for beautiful views.
• Hill of Love aka Bukit Kasih. It offers panoramic views and is known as a place where people of all faiths can gather.
• Spend a day by Tondano Lake. The largest lake of the North. Lots of beautiful views and relaxation to be had here.
• Trek the small Mount Tumba. If you’re craving a little hiking and nature.
• Chinatown. Manado has its very own small Chinatown. There’s not a ton to see here, in fact, it’s pretty unimpressive in terms of food for a Chinatown. But it can be worth a walk-through.

Where to Stay in Manado: Istanaku Guesthouse

Istanaku is pure comfort. The rooms were clean and modern, the wifi worked great, the A/C was strong, and the prices were very reasonable! The only con is that their wasn’t much in the area around this hotel.

Tangkoko National Park

Getting to Tangkoko National Park from Manado

From Manado, you can head to the bus terminal just outside of town. Here you’ll grab a bus to Bitung for slightly over $1.50 per person. It takes about 1 hour. From the station, you’ll be required to get a cab or use GrabCar (I recommend) to reach your homestay. It cost us about $4-5 on Grab to get to the homestay we recommend below.

Another option is to rent a motorcycle or scooter and drive yourself.

Tangkoko National Park is a very small protected area near the tip of Sulawesi. We decided to pay the park a visit because it’s known to be home to many endangered animals. Specifically, Spectral Tarsiers, Cuscus, Hornbills, and Crested Black Macaques. The latter is actually only found in this national park. I can say from experience that the wildlife here is abundant and if you want to see some cool animals, this is an excellent way to spend a day or two.

As far as National Parks go, this one is pricier in Indonesia. It costs $6 per person to enter on weekdays and $10 on weekends. Additionally, you are required to hire a guide. The most affordable guides we found were at the homestay we recommend below. They also were able to help us track down pretty much every single animal within the park! For their services, it was about 250k or $15 per person. This made our total cost of a one-day visit to the park about $42 for two people.

Daytime or Nighttime Safari?

You have the option to choose daytime or nighttime “safari” hikes within the park. I highly recommend the daytime trek to see as much as possible within the park. Go as early as your alarm clock will allow! At the end of our trek, we still managed to see the Spectral Tarsier even in the late morning hours.

Things to Bring With You to Tangkoko National Park

• Water.
• Snacks. You’ll be in the park for at least 3-4 hours.
• Insect-Repellent.
• Camera with a zoom lens.
• Wear pants and a long-sleeve or T-shirt to protect from bugs.
• A small tip for your guide is always appreciated.

Where to Stay Near Tangkoko National Park: Tangkoko Ranger Homestay

There are plenty of reasons to choose this homestay. Good food, right in front of the national park entrance, the best guides in the area, affordable prices, and comfortable rooms. This is the best place to stay in the area.

Optional Detour: Bunaken Island

If you still find yourself in Sulawesi with some time to kill, why not visit Bunaken Island? It’s another excellent stop for those interested in snorkeling and diving. Unfortunately, as this island is very near the large city of Manado, the degradation of the landscape and marine life is far more than in the Togian Islands. In other words, it is more inhabited and less pristine. But it is still worth visiting if you have the time to do so.

Sulawesi is one of the favorite islands in Indonesia. It was also, at times, one of the most frustrating. This is the price you pay to visit an island without “comfortable” tourist amenities, accommodation, or food options. But the unique cultural experiences, beautiful scenery, and abundant wildlife and nature made the whole journey worthwhile.

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