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Panama is extraordinarily expensive for the average backpacker. In fact, our daily budget nearly tripled from our time spent in neighboring Colombia. Santa Catalina, although a low-key surfers destination (for now) is no exception. Locals will already openly discuss how the town has rapidly begun to change over the past 3 years alone. But it was also our favorite destination in Panama. It’s more than possible to visit Santa Catalina on a budget and still pay a visit to Coiba National Park- one of the best snorkel & dive sites in the world.
Disclaimer: We still greatly surpassed our usual budget goal of $50 per day for the two of us during our 3-day stay here. But I truly felt it was worth the splurge. This guide has some tips on bringing down the cost a bit while still enjoying the full Coiba experience.
Here are all my tips for visiting Santa Catalina & getting the most out of your dollar.
Things You Need to Know About Santa Catalina
1. There are no ATMs in town.
I repeat NO ATMs. The closest ATM is in Sona, about an hour and a half bus ride away. Bring lots of cash with you to Santa Catalina from either Panama City or Boquete.
2. Santa Catalina is very warm.
Like excruciatingly hot actually, if you aren’t near the water. Or in the water. Book a place with fans or A/C if you can. Or plan to spend all day every day at the ocean. Not a bad way to spend your time in Santa Catalina.
3. Book Accommodation Ahead of Time.
Santa Catalina has no shortage of hotels for such a tiny speck of a town. But most are luxury spots more suited to honeymooners and high-rolling divers than budget backpackers. Cheap hotels fill up fast.
4. Try to stay close to town.
The few budget accommodations you will find are often tucked into the deep recesses of the jungle out of town. Much like nearby Corcovado National Park in Costa Rica. But considering there are no taxis you’ll want to be close to where the action is.
5. The bus will drop you near your hotel.
Just tell the driver the name of where you’re staying and he will get you as close as possible so you don’t have to walk miles with your bags. There are no taxis in town. Walking is pretty much your only option once you get off the bus.
6. People come here to surf La Punta
This is known as the best wave in all of Central America. You have to reach it by boat and it’s only for expert surfers but if that’s your thing…go for it. Otherwise, the calmer Estes beach is great for beginners.
7. Also to snorkel with whale sharks.
Coiba National Park is one of the best places to snorkel in the world. Alongside Hawaii & Indonesia, this is the best snorkeling I’ve experienced. You can spot White Tipped Reef Sharks, Mobula Rays, Hawksbill Turtles, dolphins, Orcas, and Whale Sharks if you time the season right and get lucky.
8. Whale Sharks are NOT guaranteed. & that’s a good thing.
The whale shark season is from January to April.
But even during that time, they are wild marine animals. Like truly wild. And to see them you’ll have to be extraordinarily lucky. But by keeping them wild and not feeding them Coiba remains an ethical habitat for these wonderful creatures. We did not get lucky. Unfortunately, Orcas had scared off the only whale sharks in the area earlier that week.
9. Credit Cards only work sometimes.
As I said, there are no ATMs and most places don’t take cards. The few that do…only do when they have good enough reception to run the card. Which is rare. Don’t bank on credit cards.
10. Also, bring cash to avoid fees.
Everywhere that accepts card also charges a fee ranging from 4% to 10%. Even the couple places that take Paypal also charge a fee. Just plan on cash.
If you’ve ignored all my warnings & show up with no cash there are a few places in town that can get you cash back with a debit card…also they all charge a 10% fee.
- Aborroterria Elisa. But only on Sundays. That’s when they get a fresh stack of cash I guess?
- Tiki Bar. They will help you get your hands on $20 or $40 if they have it but they won’t get you a lump sum.
- Sol y Mar. At the restaurant of this hotel (if the boss is around) you can *sometimes* withdraw cash. It’s kinda a walk and a lot of stairs but if you’re desperate it could be worth a try. We tried and the manager wasn’t there to authorize it.
Alright, I forgot cash…where CAN I use my credit card?
- Aborroterria Elisa is the best shop in town & they also take credit cards. The other main shop right up the corner technically takes cards but has problems getting reception.
- Many of the hotels. You probably won’t have to pay for your accommodation in cash.
- Surf Rentals on Estes Beach. There’s a 7% fee but boards are only $15 for the whole day.
- PanoChocolate. Best coffee in town and great peanut butter smoothie bowl. Cards only work sometimes, however.
- Many snorkel/dive shops accept cards as well (again with a fee).
Getting to Santa Catalina
Avoid the tourist shuttles in Panama. Yes, they are fast but they are always at least 2-3X more expensive than the buses. And since the roads are decent in Panama the buses are fairly fast.
A note on buses in Panama: Unlike buses in South America they aren’t freezing. Many are hot & overpacked (you might not have a “real” seat) & some are mildly air-conditioned. But don’t bundle up.
From Panama City
From the Albrook bus terminal in Panama City, you can purchase a bus to Sona for $9.50 a person. The bus departs at 8:20 AM & 10:20 AM. Sometimes they have a 6:30 AM departure but not always.
When you reach Sona there will be another bus ready & waiting to take passengers for $4.50 the rest of the way to Santa Catalina.
Total transit time is about 6 hours and costs $13.50. The shuttle costs $50.
From Boquete
If you’re coming from the north this route is a little more convoluted but still easy.
First, you’ll take a bus from Boquete to David for $1.25 (they run all day). Then you’ll head from David to Santiago. From Santiago to Sona. And from Sona to Santa Catalina.
The total bus cost for the 4 buses is $17 and takes about 6-7 hours. The tourist shuttle is $35.
My thoughts on Boquete: I’m not going to write a blog about Boquete. Why? Because I didn’t like it. And I don’t want to yuck anyone else’s yum, but to me, the town has no identity. Not a Panamanian one anyway. It feels a little like “small-town USA” meets the Panamanian mountains. But not really in a good way. It’s become a retiree hotspot for middle-class Americans and Canadians and has thus become pretty whitewashed. & rather expensive. But hey, most of Panama is. Expensive that is. The hiking in the area was alright but having to pay $25 in entrance fees for two people to hike less than 3 miles is ridiculous. Also, the wildlife is limited. If you have to choose between Boquete & Santa Catalina (like many travelers who are short on time in Panama do) please do yourself a favor & head to Santa Catalina. Unless all you want is a quiet town with good coffee. Then maybe Boquete is more your style.
Where to Stay in Santa Catalina
Finding cheap lodging in Panama is a task. & Santa Catalina although not really on the backpacker route yet…fills up quickly. We tried to book accommodation 5 days in advance and found the cheapest lodging to be already full.
Fortunately, that led us to stay in this wonderful guesthouse.
Coiba House ($55/night double room)
I never rave about accommodation because often to us they are just a place to rest our heads. But CoibaHouse is different. This guesthouse has a huge open-air dining & lounging area with cozy hammocks overlooking the beach + the best sunset views in all of Santa Catalina. They have a fully equipped outdoor kitchen so you can save money on food by cooking…and why wouldn’t you when you already have the best beach view. The rooms are also very nice & air-conditioned which is important because Santa Catalina is HOT. I highly recommend this place.
Eco Deseo Bamboo Hostel (Dorms $18/night)
This bamboo hut dorm is a good budget option and seems to always have beds available because it’s so large. The one downside is that it’s a bit of a walk from the beach/town & at night that walk is terrifyingly dark. You need a headlamp. Also, the kitchen is rustic.
Since this accommodation is out of town be sure to let the bus driver know when you’re coming into Santa Catalina & he will drop you right at the entrance. You don’t want to have to walk back with your bags.
What to do in Santa Catalina for cheap.
1. Enjoy the beach.
Duh. There are a few to choose from. Estes beach is a nice walk from town and great for those looking to surf.
2. Surf at Estes Beach
$15 for a board for a full day. If you’re an expert surfer consider grabbing a boat out to La Punta. But be sure to check the forecast to see if you’re up to it.
3. Hike in Santa Catalina
There are plenty of small hikes between beaches and in the hills in this region. Basically, all beach-related things.
4. Watch the Sunset from an Epic Spot.
Like your open-air kitchen if you chose Coiba House as accommodation. Or just head down to the beach for an incredible sunset.
Best Snorkel Tour in Santa Catalina
Watch Dolphin Tour. For $80 a person this is a splurge for most backpackers. But I promise you this is worth it. Some agencies will run the same tour for $5 less but don’t be sucked into their slightly lower prices!
Why?
Because Watch Dolphin is the only company that takes you to ISOLATED & different snorkel spots in the national park than the others. Because of this we saw WAY more marine life than other tours and didn’t have to share our private beaches with anyone else. When you pop your head up from snorkeling you can hear the singing birds and dull crash of waves and that’s it. Just you and nature. We were also the only group that saw Mobula rays and sharks.
This company pays their guides slightly more than others and therefore they actually care about helping you find animals.
You can spot saltwater crocs, dolphins, whale sharks, white-tipped reef sharks, turtles, rays, and even orcas on your snorkel trip!
Tips for Eating Cheap in Santa Catalina
1. Cook your own meals.
This is by far the cheapest option. We made pesto pasta with fresh tomato for dinner. Fresh fruit for dessert. Blended it up with a bottle of rum for cheap cocktails. And then for breakfast- tortillas with fried egg, peppers, and American cheese. Or their mix with water pancake mix and pineapple marmalade.
2. Restaurants Pinguinos for seafood, wine, and SUNSET.
If you want one fancy meal in town on the beach for a reasonable price head here. It’s on the water and serves $4.50 glasses of white wine and entire fish served with patacones & salad (fit for 2) for $15.
3. PanoChocolate
This is a little shop owned by a French woman and although it’s the most expensive restaurant on this list, it is a good option for coffee if you’re an addict like me.
4. The fruit shed.
If you find yourself wondering where on earth people buy their fruit..this is your answer. It’s across from the markets in a wooden shack. You can also get cheap fresh fruit smoothies whipped up there.
Ready to leave Santa Catalina?
Unlikely. But when you do have to head back to Sona know that the buses leave at 7:30 & 8:30 AM. Every once in a while they have one at 11:30 AM but I couldn’t nail down exactly what days it’s available. Definitely not weekends. I would just plan to start early if I was you.
Santa Catalina was our favorite destination in all of Panama. & and yes, we love our beaches. But we also love our wildlife and Santa Catalina was the perfect combination of the two. Let me know if you visit & what you think of this lovely little beach town.
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