An Honest Rajasthan Travel Guide: What to See & What to Skip

This post may contain affiliate links. This just means I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you for helping them promote their product or service. I don’t endorse any services I don’t personally use or recommend.

This Rajasthan travel guide is the “need to know info” without all the fluff. Rajasthan is the most visited state in India and therefore one of the most written-about travel destinations in the world. Even people spending a week in India (an absolutely wild endeavor) choose to explore Rajasthan 9 times out of 10. 

The truth is…not everything is worth your time and money in Rajasthan. With every single city boasting ancient forts, a handful of temples, and trinket markets your day-to-day can get monotonous and slowly it all starts to blur together.

Obviously, this post is filled with my own personal opinions— but objectively some forts are just prettier than others. Traveling in Rajasthan should be about *experiencing* (and eating) not just seeing and photographing. Your time WILL NOT be best spent seeing everything there is to see in Rajasthan. It’s easy to get sucked into a huge to-do list of sights in each city because most blog posts outline everything you could possibly do rather than telling you what they think is actually worth it. 

People who love Rajasthan often see less — not more. 

The purpose of this quick Rajasthan travel guide is to help you determine what to see and what to skip. Because your time in India is limited and there are so many more regions you could add to your itinerary. 

Rajasthan Travel Guide: What to See + What to Skip

For easy digestion— I’ll go city by city starting with Udaipur. This is the closest destination to Mumbai (one of the main International Airports in India). But if you’re coming from Delhi, you’ll do these destinations in the reverse order. 

The one thing missing from this Rajasthan Travel Guide is where to eat! I actually wrote an entirely separate “Best Places to Eat in Rajasthan” post. I included a few really exceptional or unique eats on this Rajasthan travel guide but hit that post for all the rest!

Udaipur (See) 

This is the cleanest, calmest, and most relaxing version of India. Udaipur is the city that even those who hate India can love. That doesn’t mean it’s clean or quiet by any means, it is still India after all, but it’s a beginner-level India that’s comfortable enough for all solo women and new travelers. 

Temperatures are mild here, unlike the vast desert regions of Rajasthan, and that makes wandering the many lakes and palaces the city is known for easy. Udaipur’s biggest flaw is its food scene. Or lack thereof. You have to really depart from the trodden tourist areas here to get any kind of culinary experience.

Udaipur “Wow” factor: 10/10 

Ideal Number of Days in Udaipur: 3 days 

Important things to consider for Udaipur

• Udaipur is a great place to shop. Places to choose from are plentiful and the vendors are much more reasonable and willing to haggle. 
• Rooftops are a big deal in Udaipur. The city is best viewed from a roof near the main lake — or within the old city. I highly recommend you choose a hotel with a rooftop restaurant to enhance your experience in the city. My favorite mornings were spent with a scenic sunrise breakfast. 

Best Guesthouses with a Roof-Top View

Must See Destinations in Udaipur

Sunrise or sunset destinations: Royal Cenotaphs & Bahubadi Hills. 

Both these destinations require a rickshaw ride. 

The Royal Cenotaphs are technically closed to the public. But for a small bribe the guard who is always there is more than happy to open the gate for you. This is very typical in India. Here are a few other places you should make a point to visit during your stay.

• City Palace 
• Jagdish Temple 
• Wander across the bridges near the ghats to the other side of the city. 

Getting from Udaipur to Jodhpur 

Bus is the only option and you can expect it to take around 5.5 hours.

Booking transportation in India is a NIGHTMARE. It’s my single least favorite thing about the country. I started using 12.goAsia for buses just so I wouldn’t have to deal with all the touts overinflating the price. Definitely read my Beginner’s Guide to India for more tips on booking buses and trains within the country.

Jodhpur (See) 

The “not-so-blue-city”. If you’re visiting because of the bright blue Instagram shots the city is famous for, you’re probably gonna be disappointed. But if you’re visiting to enjoy incredible views of one of the most impressive forts in Rajasthan, savor a truly ancient city with great street food, and relax at a scenic stepwell then maybe Jodhpur is for you! 

Jodhpur “Wow” factor: 9/10 

Ideal Number of Days in Jodhpur: 2 days 

Obviously, a few extra days in the city would allow you to spend some time relaxing and uncover some hidden gems in this sprawling Indian city. But this is just a general guide for those on a time crunch in India.

Important Things to Consider for Jodhpur

• Choose a place to stay with rooftop views of the fort. This is one of the best parts of the city. 
• The city is not all that blue outside one small corner. If you’re hoping for blue then you should book a stay at the very simple but comfortable and cheap Cosy Guesthouse. 
• You’ll have to haggle at an expert level here. It’s not an ideal place for rickshaw rides or shopping. 
• It is most definitely the desert. This means you’ll want to do most exploring in the morning and evening when temps are low. 

Must Visit Destinations in Jodhpur 

• Clocktower Market in the evening. Just be prepared for chaos. 
• Toorji Ka Jhalra Stepwell. It’s empty early morning. But midday people sometimes leap from the high point into the well. 
• Mehrangarh Fort. This is one of the most impressive forts in Rajasthan and is definitely on my must-see list. 

Sunrise or sunset destinations: Photography Point for Sunrise (technically closed to visitors— but I have a blog for that).

Potential Skip Destinations in Jodhpur

• Jaswant Thada. If you do my semi-illegal sunrise hike (linked above and below) you’ll see it from the best view. The inside is not all that impressive. 
• Pachiaga Hill sunrise point. Again not as good as my spot but a decent alternative if you aren’t up for a sneaky adventure. 
• Mandore Gardens. It’s a bit far out of town and the “gardens” are really just some ancient-looking temples. It’s very pretty and a great place to see LOTS of Hanuman Langurs up close if that interests you. 

My biggest disappointment about Jodhpur and honestly, much of Rajasthan, was the amount of sewage and trash everywhere. Sanitation is basically at 1800s levels. I suppose when you visit 500-year-old cities that’s to be expected, but it’s still worth noting. 

How to get from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer 

Bus or Train (bus is cheaper). A/C is probably a must since you’re going between deserts. The journey will take at least 6 hours. If you want to book a train you can use my Beginner’s Guide to Travel in India. (*Coming Soon*)

Jaisalmer (Skip) 

Jaisalmer is where I began to distrust many of my fellow bloggers in India. A quick Google of the city returned countless 2-3 day itineraries and glowing reviews of the golden city. But I was disappointed shortly after arrival. 

Jaisalmer is a tiny desert city near the border of Pakistan. Its main attractions are the camel safaris into the semi-nearby Thar desert and the large “living fort” in the center of the town. We have been blessed to experience camel rides and one of the most impressive deserts in the world during a recent trip to Wadi Rum, Jordan. Based on the shaggy scrubland desert of India filled with sickly-looking camels and garbage…we assumed we would be let down by a “safari”. Most of these tours include visits to local villages and song/dance performances at camp that we were not keen to participate in. So, we skipped it. And I don’t regret that. That left us to explore the town of Jaisalmer itself. But there is very little of any value or cultural significance here. 

Why we didn’t love the city…

The fort is little more than one giant tourist market. It does have people living in it, yes, but I have never seen more group tours and pushy trinket shops in one small area than in Jaisalmer. The “Jain temple” requires a 250 rupee entrance fee which after visiting the holy city of Palitana (home to the most impressive and stunning Jain temples in India) I was immediately suspicious of. When the “holy men” inside were seen sweeping up insects and not wearing the traditional Jain monk attire of white robes, I suspected this was not a functional temple and these weren’t devout Jain followers. When each one then asked for “donation” in a demanding and expectant way and put the money directly into their pocket…this theory was confirmed. Jaisalmer was overall a huge letdown. Yes, the fort is pretty and gold. But that’s not worth the massive detour required to reach the city. 

If you are not going to do a camel safari to sleep overnight in the desert, I do not recommend adding the city to your itinerary. Also, you’ll find better camel experiences in other parts of the world—both ethically and scenically. 

Jaisalmer “Wow” factor: 4/10 

Ideal Number of Days in Jaisalmer: 0 days 

Getting From…

Bikaner (See) 

Considered by many travelers to be “off the beaten track,” Bikaner is often left off visitor’s itineraries. Admittedly, it doesn’t have a wide array of attractions but the few that it does have are unique enough to warrant a visit. 

Another perk of Bikaner is it is small. It’s quiet. The streets are decidedly less chaotic than other Rajasthan destinations. It’s a good place to take a breather. 

Bikaner “Wow” factor: 7/10 

Ideal Number of Days in Bikaner: 1-2 days 

Must-See Attractions in Bikaner 

These 4 attractions are truly unique in Bikaner. They make the small city well worth visiting. 

• Rampuria Havelli. A stunning red Haveli on narrow streets.
• Seth Bhandasar Jain Temple. A very cool Jain temple with a foundation made of Ghee. (You can’t see it, just smell it.)
• ICAR Camel Center. 
• Shree Karni Mataji Temple (Rat Temple). It’s exactly as it sounds. A little gross, but so interesting.
• Tanvi Cafe. This restaurant inside a family home is definitely worth a mention and was my favorite place to eat in Bikaner.

What to Skip in Bikaner 

• Junagarh Fort. It’s just not as impressive as the other forts of Rajasthan for the price. 

Where to Stay in Bikaner: The Prince Haveli (Walk-ups Welcome)

Getting From Bikaner to Pushkar

This route is best serviced by bus. Transport options between the two destinations are limited.

Pushkar (See or Swap with Bundi) 

A placid lakeside holy city, Pushkar is another *maybe* for most itineraries. From what I can tell it has two purposes and one truly worthwhile attraction. For starters, Pushkar is one of the best places to purchase souvenirs. The entire city is basically one long street crowded with local shops charging some of the lowest prices in Rajasthan. We bought rings for $3, a thick woven shawl for $6, and a brightly colored pashmina for $6. The other reason to visit is the laid-back atmosphere. It’s a small town and has far less traffic than even other small cities on this list like Bikaner. 

I think the main reason most of us like Pushkar is that it offers a scenic place to relax in Rajasthan with pretty lake views. 

Pushkar “Wow” Factor: 7/10

Ideal Number of Days in Pushkar: 2 days 

Important Things to Consider in Pushkar 

• Don’t accept any offerings from “holy men” by the lake. They are trying to extort money from you. If they follow you to the water just tell them you aren’t going to pay them and they will disappear rapidly. 
• There is no meat or alcohol allowed in the city limits. It’s a holy city.
• You’ll have to take your shoes off within 30 feet of the lake. Again— holy city = holy lake. 

Guesthouse of Choice in Pushkar

Hotel Rising Star.

Not only was the room comfortable, the food home-cooked and affordable, it was also close to the local bus station and walkable to everything in town. 

Must See Attractions in Pushkar 

Sunset or Sunrise: Savitri Devi Temple.

This was the only attraction we loved in Pushkar. You can either walk the staircase to the summit for free for panoramic sunset views or ride the ropeway for 150 rupees (ticket for both ways), which is about $1.80 at this time. We rode it up and walked down because we were feeling lazy. There are loads of monkeys at the top but they didn’t seem too concerned with people. It’s also less than a mile from town so it’s another lovely walk. No rickshaw needed. 

What to Skip in Pushkar

I mean, if you’re here maybe you don’t have to skip it BUT I would not label any of these things as “must-see”. 

• Brahma Temple. Pretty underwhelming. But I understand it is one of the only temples dedicated to Brahma. 

Getting From Pushkar to Jaipur

This one is a short ride (for India) and is easily done on a bus.

Bundi (See or Swap with Pushkar) 

Bundi is another remote, lakeside, slow-moving destination. It’s big perk— VERY few visitors. Consider it a little like Pushkar without all the tourist markets. It has some beautiful old temples and it’s much greener than the rest of Rajasthan. 

We chose Pushkar over Bundi for our Rajasthan travel guide although I feel that either place is a great addition to your itinerary. But you *probably* don’t need to visit both. 

Bundi “Wow” Factor: 7/10

Ideal Number of Days in Bundi: 2 days 

Since I haven’t personally visited Bundi, I’m going to leave the recommendations to other blogs.

Jaipur (See) 

Jaipur is like Delhi in that it is such an astronomically huge city you would be a fool to pretend you know the best places to eat and visit after a week-long stay. And most people stay far less than that. Known as the “pink city” although again — keep in mind this is really just referencing a very small historic neighborhood of the mega-city, Jaipur is a must-see on most travelers’ list because there are many things to do in the area. It is part of the Golden Triangle of India. 

But just because there are a lot of sights doesn’t mean they are worthwhile to visit and shell out the cash. In fact, Jaipur is the perfect example of why you should pick and choose your attractions rather than committing to seeing everything. 

Where to Stay in Jaipur

One thing is 100% certain though. You NEED to stay at Home of the World Guesthouse. It is one of the best guesthouses we have ever stayed at. The host is the warmest most helpful man in India. You get free chai, free family-style breakfast, lunch, and dinner AND it’s a really friendly communal atmosphere, unlike most guesthouses with private rooms. We met the best people there. Including the family who runs the place. I can’t recommend it highly enough. Sometimes they aren’t taking reservations on booking.com but feel free to book them on other sites like Agoda.

Luxury Stay + Day Trip in Jaipur

My other BIG suggestion if you have the budget for it— go visit Dera Amer Wilderness Camp for a luxury overnight glamping stay or a quick walk/lunch at their elephant sanctuary. It’s a great way to support happy elephant lives, see some elephants, and enjoy the serene nature of the 180-acre property. It was my favorite thing we did in Jaipur. 

Jaipur City “Wow” Factor: 7/10

If you visit Dera Amer: 10/10 

Ideal Number of Days in Jaipur: 2-3 days 

Important Things to Know for Jaipur 

• It’s the most expensive city on this list. 
• It’s also known for the most scams in Rajasthan. 
• You DO NOT want to stay inside the pink city portion of the city. It’s way too chaotic and loud to actually get any sleep. 
• You do however want to stay in the northeastern-ish portion of Jaipur because the city is massive and attractions are so far apart. Home of the world was in the perfect position. 

Must see in Jaipur 

• Hawa Mahal. Lives up to the hype and gives you a chance to see the true pink portion of the city. We didn’t pay to go inside, just stood on the street and looked at it. 
• Amer Fort/Amber Fort. But only from the outside. It’s set on the hillside and really impressive but the inside is totally abandoned and empty. A real disappointment after paying 500 rupees. This is also where they offer elephant rides and have all the sad captive elephants. Please don’t support that. 
• Do hike up to the wall behind it for the best sunset view, however. You can get up onto the wall near the stepwell. Specifically at Kheri Gate. Just climb on top and follow the wall up the mountain.
• Raj Mandir Cinema for a real Bollywood film. 
• Dera Amer Wilderness Camp.
• Patricka Gate. Just go early in the morning before the crowds. 
• The Little Coffee Shop. This became a favorite spot of ours and the coffee is exceptionally good. Not the cheapest at $2 a latte — but totally worth it for those of you missing real coffee at this point. 

I highly recommend joining the Home of the World day tour if you want to see *all* the sights in Jaipur. It’s 1,500 rupees per person (~$18) and unless you plan on taking 5 days and 1-hour bus rides to each place in Jaipur you won’t save much by doing it yourself. You’ll also have the added context of explanations and get to make friends with people at the guesthouse. I don’t recommend tours unless I know they are going to be great. Home of the world tours are. They also have cooking classes if that’s more your thing. 

Places in Jaipur to Skip

• Monkey Temple or Galta Ji Temple. It’s expensive, far away, poorly maintained and the monkeys are mean to each other. 
• City Palace. The one in Udaipur is more impressive. If you aren’t going to Udaipur then consider it. 
• Going inside Amber Fort. Horrible. Not worth it. 
• Museums. Unless that’s your thing. 
• Block Printing Factory. People will try to get you to go here. It’s a scam.

Getting From Jaipur to Agra

You can easily take a train from Jaipur to Agra (and yes, you want to visit Agra before Delhi). But if you do want to take a bus that you can book online…

Rajasthan Travel Guide: My Recommended Itinerary 

Rajasthan is in no way my favorite part of India. But it is an important historical region that most travelers cannot pass up. I’m not advocating anyone skip Rajasthan, just that they limit the time spent in the region since it’s mostly chaotic cities. I think most travelers can get away with this quick 12-ish day itinerary before moving on to other regions. 

3 days in Udaipur, 2 days in Jodhpur, 2 days in Bikaner, 2 days in Pushkar, 3 days in Jaipur.

Those who have more time and love cities (this is really the key here) feel free to add more.

Overall, I spent nearly 2 months in Rajasthan and I am NOT a city person. The reason I tell travelers that they should opt for a quick trip to Rajasthan (or as quickly as possible) is because the trash-filled crowded cities of India can leave you feeling jaded very quickly. India is an incredible destination. There’s nowhere else like it in the world. But it’s also an overwhelming destination for those not accustomed to the sheer volume.

Save This Rajasthan Travel Guide For Later!