Not Your Basic Off-The-Beaten-Path Vietnam Itinerary (30 Days)

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Vietnam’s tourist trail is so well-trodden it may as well be paved. Backpackers love it because it’s cheap, beachgoers and foodies love it for the South, while adventurous souls who love hiking and biking gravitate North. But does anyone dare deviate from the established tourist route? A cursory glimpse of the blog posts readily available online tells me…probably not.

If you truly want to experience the BEST destinations in Vietnam; the ones without the gimmicky Instagram-centered selfie spots, without the generic flavorless bowls of fried rice or pho, and without the hordes of tour buses, please continue reading this guide.

We’ve visited Vietnam 3 times for a total of 3 months. Three months is not that long when it comes to navigating a whole country, but it has given us enough time to create a better off-the-beaten-path Vietnam itinerary for experienced travelers than anyone else on the internet. Mostly because we deviated from the tourist trail very early on in our Vietnam travels. That doesn’t mean this itinerary will skip all the tourist areas entirely. Some are well worth the hype.

Vietnam is blessed with incredible landscapes and phenomenal food, as well as plenty of unique experiences to have (rather than simply manmade attractions to see). This 30-day off-the-beaten-path Vietnam itinerary will take you from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh in a much more interesting way than your typical tourist.

Why 30 days? Because that’s how long most travelers get in the country. Obviously, we wish we had more. But the typical backpacker gives themselves one month to see the country in its entirety.

Your Not-So-Basic 30-Day Vietnam Itinerary

This off-the-beaten-path Vietnam itinerary assumes that you want to see the country in its entirety, with destinations spanning from the far north to the south. I have one other Vietnam itinerary that focuses solely on the Northern knob of the country. This is my true love when it comes to Vietnam. Yes, the food down south is spectacular and HCMC is a place I could one day call home…but the North…there’s just something special about it.

Read More: If you’re intrigued, check out my North Vietnam Motorcycle Itinerary.

Here’s a quick overview of my proposed off-the-beaten-path Vietnam Itinerary.

• Hanoi (4 days)
• Tam Coc/Ninh Binh (2 days)
• Pu Luong (2 days)
• Mu Cang Chai (2 days)
• Ha Giang (5 days)
• Cat Ba Island (3 days)
• Hue (1 day)
• Hoi An (2 days)
• Da Lat (2 days)
• Ho Chi Minh City (4 days)
• 3 days for daytime transit or rest

Important Visa Information!

Vietnam requires a visa for most travelers. You used to be able to acquire a visa on arrival as a US passport holder. I’m sharing with you all that as of 2024, YOU NEED A E-VISA before you board the plane. Here is the official website to apply on (yes, it looks sketchy but that’s just the Vietnamese government) and you should give yourself about 5-7 days at least to get your confirmation.

I provided the link to the government website because if you google Vietnam E-Visa you’re going to get links to a million different visa company sites that all charge you an extra fee when it’s just as easy to apply yourself directly with the government.

Hanoi (4 days)

First things first, book yourself a street food tour with the iconic A Chef’s Tour. Vietnamese food is incredibly diverse, and it’s good to gain an understanding of the cuisine right away. Then, you’ll be able to find excellent food throughout the remainder of your trip.

Hanoi is an incredible city. It has an energy to it. Ancient, chaotic, green. It’s one of those destinations that travelers immediately take a liking to. And what’s not to like? It has exceptional food, tons of attractions, cheap shopping, and strong coffee. Let’s not spoil it by overexplaining; I’ll let you fall in love with it all by yourself.

Where to Stay in Hanoi

Where to Eat in Hanoi

Every city in Vietnam has its own iconic dishes that you MUST eat. Hanoi has all of them. But there are a couple of stand-out places I recommend you hit during your stay.

• Cong Cafe. You have to visit at least one of these communist-themed Starbucks.
• Banh My Tram – 30 Dinh Ngang. Banh mi.
• Bia Hoi Junction. Not a restaurant, but a place people drink beer in the evening.
• Banh Mi 25. It’s famous + filled with foreigners. But man, if it isn’t good.
• Huong Viet. Another popular one with tourists. But it’s still really tasty and vegan-friendly.
• Hidden Gem Cafe Hanoi. Great egg coffee.
• Pho Thin Bo Ho. Get the Pho.
• Bun Cha Huong Lien. Best Bun Cha I’ve had in Vietnam.
• Pho Bung Hang Trong. Pho served in a woman’s home. My personal fave bowl in the city.
• Bun Cha Dac Kim. Also excellent Bun cha.
• Bun Bo Nam Bo Bach Phuong. Delicious noodle dish called Bun Bo Nam.

What to See in Hanoi

Here are the attractions I think are worth visiting in Hanoi. Unless you really love war history presented with a communist propaganda spin or taking a photo in front of every neat-looking building.

• Ho B52. Check out the morning market in this area. The sunken US fighter plane in the lake is neat too.
• Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.
• Hoa Lo Prison Relic.
• Dong Xuan Night Market.
• Ta Hien Beer Street. This is a quirky touristy place, but it’s still a lot of fun.
• Hoan Kiem Lake. Go early, and you’ll see the elderly Vietnamese doing Tai Chi in the morning air.

The biggest and most important attraction in Hanoi, Vietnam, is to simply wander the streets.

Nihn Bihn/Tam Coc (2 Days)

This was once the hidden gem of North Vietnam. But it’s not so hidden anymore. You’ll have to share the small rice-producing town’s temples with your fellow travelers. But there are some iconic places worth visiting. The easiest way to get around the region is by motorbike. So I would consider renting one for the day to reach all these places on a budget.

Where to Stay in Tam Coc

What to See in Nihn Bihn

Rent a motorbike and explore the region.

• Bich Dong Pagoda.
• Nui Ngoa Long. This involves a short hike up many stairs to the summit for the views. Best one on the list in my opinion. It’s also the most famous with the massive dragon sculpture along the mountain crest.
• Tam Coc Lake.
• Thung Nang. If you’re interested in the boat rides and the caves.

Pu Luong (2 Days)

This one is a little out of left field for people. I really enjoyed the tranquil town of Pu Luong and felt like the short hikes to local villages and the impressive terraced rice fields were well worth seeing. Don’t stay long…just enough to take in the fresh air. This is one of those hidden gems I talked about in this particular off-the-beaten-path Vietnam Itinerary.

Where to Stay in Pu Luong

What to See in Pu Luong

Pu Luong is all about relaxation and enjoying the surrounding views. I recommend going out for some hikes with the host from Pu Luong Treehouse and learning about the Hmong communities that call this region home.

Read More: Motorbike Loops in Vietnam That Aren’t Ha Giang

Mu Cang Chai (2 Days)

It blows my mind how many tourists choose to visit Sa Pa STILL today. Even with all the overtourism. The overdevelopment. They still choose to drive/catch a ride to the tip-top of the country for a disappointing rice field trek. Mu Cang Chai is better. The views are better, the rice paddies are more lush, tourism is yet to fully develop into the mass-produced chaos of Sa Pa. I promise if you’re looking for rice fields…Mu Cang Chai will not disappoint.

April to June will have lush green valleys. Sept to October will have crisp golden fields filled with fully ripe rice. You can do this off-the-beaten-path Vietnam Itinerary any time of year but these are best.

Where to Stay in Mu Cang Chai

Ha Giang (5 Days)

Motorbike required. But technically, you don’t need to drive it. Ha Giang is only worth visiting if you are willing to either ride or get on the back of a motorcycle for a few days. You’ve probably heard of the Ha Giang Loop. This 3-day motorcycle route through the northernmost mountains of Vietnam and Hmong territory is the most beautiful scenery in the entire country. Full stop.

With its popularity on social media and the many hostels running massive motorbike tours, Ha Giang has lost some of its charm over the past few years. While taking in the spectacular sights from the back of a motorbike is a great option for those with no riding experience, I firmly believe that riding the Ha Giang loop unguided is the best way to experience this region that still holds so much natural beauty. The route is not difficult and clearly marked on offline map apps like Maps.me. We’ve now ridden this loop twice now from both directions. Being on your own time and leisure means more time to avoid the crowds, explore surrounding areas, and, most importantly, enjoy the peace and solitude unencumbered with hangovers, late nights, and road rash.  

Where to Stay in Ha Giang

Where to Eat in Ha Giang

• DT Quan. Excellent Banh Xeo or kind of a self-made rice roll.
• 2 Co Lun – Quan An Vat.
• Com Rang, Com Ga Nguyen Beo.

What to See in Ha Giang

Ha Giang has a helpful market if you need some colder-weather clothing for the loop. But it’s a pretty small town. You can travel over to the nearby villages for a look at local life or drive up to Ha Giang City Viewpoint for a great overlook.

For tips on the Ha Giang Loop, be sure to read my 3-week motorcycle guide to North Vietnam (days 11-14), but remember that this route is NOT a loop, so you’ll have to map yourself back to Ha Giang unless you want to motorbike yourself back to Hanoi.

Cat Ba Island (3 Days)

You don’t want to leave Vietnam without seeing the iconic Ha Long Bay. I understand. With its limestone karsts and vibrant blue-green waters, it’s a difficult experience to write off entirely. But Ha Long Bay is polluted, overtouristed, and, unfortunately, rarely the experience it’s chalked up to be. Rather than book a typical tour from Hanoi, I suggest visiting the nearby Cat Ba Island and then embarking on a more sustainable cruise from there. You’ll still get the scenery, and the experience will be far more enjoyable, I promise.

The cheapest prices will be found by booking in person ON Cat Ba island. But since that requires taking a public ferry and multiple buses/taxi, many people prefer to book ahead. This is the tour I recommend in that case.

If you’re looking for a cruise from Hanoi, I recommend this traditional junk boat that also goes to Lan Ha.

Where to Stay in Cat Ba

If you choose to visit Cat Ba Island on this off-the-beaten-path Vietnam Itinerary, here are some incredible places to stay.

What to See in Cat Ba Island

• Ride a moto out to Viet Hai village.
• Explore the Beaches like Cat Co 3 Beach (resort beach but really nice), Cat Co Beach 1, and Bai Tam Cat Co 2.
• Cai Beo Floating Village. It’s really about maximizing your driving time on the island to take in all the scenery.
• Visit the Military Cave Hospital.
• Hike Dinh Ngu Lam in Cat Ba National Park. This was my personal favorite activity in Cat Ba Island because of the endless jungle views.

Hue (1 Day)

This is a quick historical stop. It’s not for everyone, but I do think it’s an important place to visit when you’re trying to get a well-rounded picture of Vietnam.

Where to Stay in Hue

What to See in Hue

If I’m being perfectly honest, I haven’t been to Hue since 2015. As a decade has since elapsed, I’m probably not the best resource on all things Hue-related. It is on my list to visit for my next Vietnam trip, so I hope to update this itinerary with the best Hue things soon.

Hoi An (2 Days)

The tourist mecca of Vietnam. Everyone loves Hoi An. It’s the one destination that every single traveler visits when they come to Vietnam. And they aren’t wrong. It’s an excellent little French Riviera-like town with pastel yellow walls and picturesque scenery. It’s history and food all rolled into one neat little nugget. Unfortunately, there are also a lot of over-rated and just downright dumb attractions in Hoi An that detract from its natural beauty. This is what I recommend doing when you visit the ancient city.

Where to Stay in Hoi An

What to Eat in Hoi An

The Vietnamese cuisine of Hoi An is particularly special. A fan favorite of visiting foodies, this French-fusion city has a flavor all its own. These are the places well worth spending your dong.

• White Rose Restaurant. The local white rose dumplings.
• Phi Banh Mi. Simple, affordable, delish Bahn Mi.
• Madam Khanh – The Banh Mi Queen. The most popular joint in town and for good reason. She makes an excellent sandwich.
• Cau Lau Khong Gian Xanh. Get the Cau Lau as the name suggests.
• Reaching Out Teahouse. This is a cafe with only deaf employees. Great drinks + a pleasant atmosphere that helps improve the lives of severely disadvantaged Vietnamese.
• Mi Quang Ong Hai – Mr. Hai Noodles. Get the Mi Quang.
• Baby Mustard (for when you’re out near the beach).
• Noodle House by Streets. Excellent noodle flights.

What to See in Hoi An

The attractions IN Hoi An are definitely the most overrated aspect of the city, in my opinion. If you’re a history buff who cannot get enough temples, then maybe you’ll be happy as a clam hitting every single attraction.

Here’s a few things I would and wouldn’t do in Hoi An.

• I WOULD rent a motorbike or peddle bike if it’s not blazing hot and explore the areas on the outskirts of Hoi An. The scenery is stunning and you really feel the peaceful nature of the town.
• I WOULD NOT bother with the local Hoi An Beach.
• I WOULD drive the coastline of Vietnam all the way to Da Nang to see the Marble Mountains and Bai Da Den peninsula. This is where you’ll get truly excellent beaches and it’s a super scenic ride.
• I WOULD NOT put much emphasis into the night market in Hoi An. It’s overcrowded and super touristic. Meaning that it sells the same Chinese-made crap you see all over Asia. It’s not a traditional market.
• I WOULD visit the early morning local produce and goods market in the town center instead. Just get there by 6 AM.
• I WOULD NOT get my Tailor-made clothing designed in Hoi An unless I am a master negotiator or am willing to pay higher prices for convenience. You can get all the same stuff designed for cheaper in HCMC if you’re willing to shop around. I think most people choose Hoi An to get their clothing designed because it’s so readily available to tourists and set up on one single street.

Da Lat (2 Days)

Motorbike required. Okay, not totally required, but it will make your life a lot easier if you hire one. Da Lat is a mountain town. Picturesque hills, unique temples, and extraordinary meatballs. It’s a place worth visiting just to relax, and it doesn’t get the tourism that it deserves. Too many travelers are lured into well-trodden destinations like Na Trang, Da Nang, or Phu Quoc instead. Skip them and come here instead.

Where to Stay in Da Lat

What to Eat in Da Lat

There is a meal in this mountain town that I dream about to this day. It lands in the top 5 street food-ish meals I’ve ever eaten. Don’t miss the cafes here, either.

• Restaurant Da Quy, Nha Hang Da Quy.
• Mi Phu Gia.
• 47 D Hoang Dieu. This is the Bahn Mi Xiu Mai of my dreams. A delicious meatball soup with a perfectly crisp baguette to savor it with.
• Maze Bar. The food and drinks here aren’t anything to write home about, but the atmosphere of this whimsical space is well worth a wander. If you’re not claustrophobic, that is.

What to See in Da Lat

ALL of Da Lat’s appeal is in the stunning mountains around it. Get a bike and ride. Enjoy the cafes high in the clouds. Then, hit up the night market for some more street eats. This one is much more local than the night market in Hoi An.

Ho Chi Minh City (4 Days)

Welcome to Saigon. While I prefer the breathtaking mountains of the North, this city is for those who love a modern metropolis with excellent eats. Not only is the city packed with Michelin meals and world-class bars, it’s also a great place to wander and enjoy lots of coffee.

Where to Stay in Ho Chi Minh City

Many people will encourage you to stay in District 1 because it’s in the thick of the tourist attractions. But HCMC is better than that. You’re better than that. District 3 is where it’s at. Not only does it have the best food, but it’s also a great little neighborhood filled with markets and excellent roadside coffee. The best place to stay is this cozy little guesthouse with excellent A/C and a kind host family. It has all the amenities you’ll want and a super comfy bed.

What to Eat in Ho Chi Minh City

I have written extensively about how much I love to eat in HCMC. Rather than repeat myself, please read this full blog post dedicated to all the best meals in Ho Chi Minh City and where to find them. This is THE foodie city in Vietnam. I don’t say that lightly.

What to See in Ho Chi Minh City

Don’t waste your time sightseeing. Just eat.

Vietnam is one of my very favorite countries in the world. I’m confident that if most backpackers approached the country with an open mind and a willingness to shirk the places that everyone says you “must-see” in lieu of exploring the lesser visited corners, you’d like it even more. This 30-day off-the-beaten-path Vietnam Itinerary explores a few back corners while giving you a taste of the tourist trail worth visiting.

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