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The Northern mountains of Pakistan sit in hotly contested territory. Once you see the behemoth peaks and lush landscape along the Karakoram Range — you’ll understand why India and Pakistan are both so reticent to relinquish the land. But for all practical purposes, the land currently belongs to Pakistan. Not all of it. But the portion that we traversed via motorbike I’ll be discussing below. Islam is the law of the land, food + culture match the rest of the country, and you can only access the area with a Pakistan visa. What is the best way to visit the isolated incredible landscape? Most definitely on motorcycle. In fact, it might be the most scenic motorbike journey in the world.
While practically anyone (sorry Indian passport holders) can visit the capital city of Islamabad, the cultural capital of Lahore, and sweltering Karachi— Pakistan’s Northern reaches are not nearly so accessible. Maybe that is what makes them oh-so enticing. That, and the incredible mountain ranges, cherry blossom spotted valleys, and unique subcultures isolated from the rest of the country’s Islamic uniformity.
If you’re here you’re not just interested in visiting this region. You want to TRAVERSE this region on an epic bucketlist-worthy motorbike trip through some of the world’s most scenic and volatile landscapes. You want to try and motorbike North Pakistan. This is the BEST way to explore the Northern mountains. Sure, I’m biased because it’s the way we explored the region but I’m also right. This method gives you the freedom to go off-road, stay in secluded guesthouses, change your plans on a whim, and experience the real Pakistan along the way.
Here’s what you need to know to motorbike North Pakistan — even as a beginner biker.
This blog post is designed to help you decide if you should motorbike the country independently, hire a recommended guide, or book a tour. It’s filled with tips on motorcycle travel in Pakistan. If you’ve already decided to motorbike Pakistan and are looking for more of a motorcycle route— be sure to check out my 3-week Pakistan on Motorbike Itinerary (*coming soon*).
Can You Motorbike North Pakistan as a Beginner?
On our first visit to Pakistan, we spent 14 days looping from Islamabad through Gilgit-Balitistan into Khyber Pakhtunkhwa with Alex from Lost With Purpose and Sana from Coyote Trail. It was our favorite motorbike journey to date. I’ll explain in more detail later exactly why I think it’s worth it to have a guide while motorbiking in Northern Pakistan. As many of you know, I’m NOT a guided tour kind of person. We like to do our own thing but this was better…I promise. (& I should mention this is not sponsored in any way.)
We don’t have motorcycle licenses. This was our first time visiting Pakistan. We had also only ridden manual motorcycles on one other occasion while motorcycling in Vietnam. It’s fair to call us beginners. But we knew that based on the infrequent and long bus journeys required to reach the north and the remoteness of some of the destinations we had in mind, a motorcycle was the way to go.
We chose to join a tour with Lost With Purpose + Coyote Trail for our first jaunt into the mountains for lots of reasons which I will get to later. But first, some Pakistan basics and WHY motorbiking through Pakistan should be on your bucketlist.
We have now visited Pakistan twice and spent a total of 5 weeks on motorbike in the country. Not including the time spent in other regions of the country without a motorcycle. I still stand behind booking a motorcycle tour for first-timers in the country. Or at the very least enlisting the help of a local guide like Sana for many of the trip planning logistics.
My Favorite Destinations to Motorbike in Pakistan
Here’s a quick glance at some of my favorite destinations we hit on motorbike. But really, the joy was in the journey. The best sights were unexpected ones just along the roadside.
We have two full itineraries for those looking to travel in Pakistan, this is just a quick briefing of a few of my favorite places. Check out our 3-week Motorcycle North Pakistan itinerary + our traditional 1-month Pakistan Itinerary for those not comfortable on the back of a motorcycle. (*coming soon*)
Karimabad
This town is part of the famous Hunza Valley. Totally surrounded by stunning white peaks the valley is filled with gold trees or pink blossoming cherry trees depending on the season. The food was spectacular and the streets were cobblestoned and preserved from a more ancient time. It’s also a great place to hike, shop, or just chill. This is the most touristy place on this list.
Passu
The Passu Cones are the single most impressive point along the Karakoram Highway. No contest. Passu also has Yak Burgers at a super scenic restaurant, a stunning glacier hike, and a thrilling wobbly bridge that is very worth a stop. If I had to pick one single favorite place in Pakistan…it just might be Passu.
Chiporsun Valley (Chiporsan Valley)
Especially in the Fall, this super remote valley is breathtakingly beautiful. It is, however, a bit of a bumpy ride.
Rupal
The less famous viewpoint of Nanga Parbat, the 9th highest mountain in the world. It’s way better than the Instagram-famous Fairy Meadows for several reasons. For starters, the road to reach Rupal is my favorite drive in Pakistan. It’s also way less popular and therefore less crowded and feels like a climber town rather than a tourist trap.
Ishkoman Valley
Fortune telling fairies & trout farms. This little town is not on many tourists’ must-see list but I was blown away by the hospitality of our guesthouse (and the incredible food he whipped up) and the spectacular mountain scenery offered here. Also, a gushing waterfall to climb. Oh yeah, the local fairy woman can also tell you your future if that’s intriguing to you.
Booni
While this is one of the more conservative and difficult towns to reach on our itinerary Booni holds an impressive high-mountain meadow that is MADE for motorbikers. Whipping around the grasslands in clouds of dust surrounded by — you guessed it— snow-capped mountains was a trip highlight.
Kalash
This is perhaps the most unique destination on the list. Kalash sits near the border of Pakistan and Afghanistan and is therefore very difficult to reach on your own. The town is also home to a pagan religion and sub-culture with only 4,000 people remaining. The Kalash people. It would take an entire blog post to detail the Kalash Valley and its people. Lost with Purpose has already done it — so I’ll send you there.
Risks of Choosing to Motorbike North Pakistan
The risks of motorbiking in Northern Pakistan are pretty straightforward.
Accidents. These can happen anywhere and in any country. But here — the roads are precarious and the driving is chaotic so don’t drive tired and try not to travel more than 200 KM in a single day. They aren’t quite India-level crazy but it comes close in the old cities.
Landslides and floods are also a concern in Pakistan. Your safety is in Mother Nature’s hands. I hope you’ve got some good karma established.
Unrest. This isn’t so much a safety issue (usually) as it is a route issue. Protests cause road closures and this can delay your onward progress on a whim. You usually won’t know about closures ahead until you reach them. This is one of the reasons having a Pakistani guide with numerous contacts in the country can be helpful.
People always expect terrorism, kidnapping, or murder to land on this list but let’s not let the media run awry with our imagination. Pakistan felt just as safe as any other destination in Central Asia and the Middle East. Just follow the cultural norms, act respectfully, and you’ll be fine.
Read my full blog post on What to Expect While Traveling in Pakistan: An Honest Traveler’s Opinion. (*Coming Soon*)
Rewards of Attempting to Motorbike North Pakistan
Obviously, the rewards of choosing to motorbike in Pakistan far outweigh the risks.
For starters, you have complete control of your itinerary. You can visit remote destinations like Ishkoman Valley, drive to hidden waterfalls and verdant valleys, and be bound to no one’s timetable but your own.
It’s also the most fun way to explore Pakistan’s wild mountain scenery.
Additionally, you can stop off for photos and other flights of fancy whenever you like. Buses don’t stop for photo ops.
How to Plan Your Epic Motorbike Trip
Now that I’ve sold you on the motorbike trip — let’s talk about planning it.
The Perfect Time of Year to Plan Your Motorbike Trip
May-October is the ideal time to visit Northern Pakistan. The high mountains are cold (duh) which means summer is the ideal season. But it also means you’ll sweat your balls off in Islamabad when it soars above 110 degrees in June.
I recommend May or September/October for the most comfortable motorcycle trip to Pakistan. The fall season is specifically my favorite.
Do You Need a Motorbike License to Ride in Pakistan?
No. No one is going to ask.
If you want to get an international license before your trip you can, but it will never be required.
Where to Rent Your Motorbike in Islamabad
Yes, you can easily rent a motorcycle in Pakistan!
Coyote Trail in E-11. If you don’t use Sana as a local guide then definitely at least rent your bikes from him as they are high quality, well maintained, and fairly priced.
But really— you want him as a guide.
Sana and Alex recently opened up a beautiful hostel with dorms and private rooms in Islamabad. It’s called Coyote Den Traveler’s Hostel. I mention the hostel not only because it is the best place to stay in Islamabad but also easy for you to stay + rent a motorcycle in the same place.
Sana WhatsApp: +92 346 8557771
Alex WhatsApp: +92 355 4442098
Tips for Motorbiking in Pakistan
1. Don’t learn to motorbike in Pakistan
These roads aren’t for people who have never ridden a motorcycle before. The traffic in towns is sardine-style with very loose laws and the stretches between towns can be more mountain than actual road. You’ll have to drive through water crossings and landslides as well as contend with local wildlife (goats, it’s always goats) that frequently dart in front of your tires.
That being said: it is possible to learn in Pakistan. Just know what you’re up against.
2. Practice Your Skills in the Morning.
Pakistani’s sleep in. The roads are emptiest and therefore easiest in the early morning hours. If you aren’t uber confident, test out your basic skills in the wee morning hours.
3. Pack like a pro.
Motorbike journeys require a small but well-equipped pack. Pakistan is both freezing cold and boiling hot at the same time year-round. You will need thermal layers. Also, if you’re a woman you will need to be modest in all destinations. Don’t worry I’ve also written a Pack Like a Pro for Female Travelers in Pakistan. (*Coming Soon*)
For a full list of what to pack on a motorcycle trip in Pakistan see this blog post. *Coming Soon* I’ve included all the documents that you should bring with you and how to present them at the various checkpoints you’ll encounter along the way.
4. Be flexible.
If you’re traveling on your own understand that roads and conditions change constantly. This will not be a trip you can plan moment by moment. Be prepared to change plans on a whim. This means being okay with not booking everything in advance.
5. Wear proper protective gear.
Duh. You’ll thank yourself if you ever have to be scraped off the asphalt high in the Pakistan mountains. Helmets are a must. Body armor is up to you.
6. Read This Comprehensive Guide to Motorcycle Travel in Pakistan
I’m not the authority on motorcycle travel in Pakistan. Yes, we’ve done it. But Alex from Lost With Purpose has spent years of her life in Pakistan and traveled by motorcycle to more places than most Pakistani people can claim. From the eyes of a foreigner, she knows the country better than anyone else.
If you are 100% set on riding a motorcycle in Pakistan THIS is the guide for you. It covers everything you need to know about driving in the country, motorcycle repairs, tips for planning your route, and more.
Do You Need a Guide or Tour to Motorbike Northern Pakistan?
Technically speaking no. You can definitely go off on your own and explore *some* parts of Northern Pakistan.
But without a guide Booni, Kalash, and many other highly policed areas may be off-limits to you.
Pakistan is filled with police checkpoints to monitor all its citizens (and outsiders) coming and going. At these checkpoints, the police can deny you passage or insist you have an escort. These escorts suck because they are slow, don’t want you to stop anywhere, and often force you to stay in expensive hotels which they then don’t let you leave.
If you really want to get OUT there you can hire a well-connected guide who can take you to all the most scenic and remote places.
Let’s take a look at whether or not joining a group tour is right for you!
Pros + Cons of Joining a Group Tour to Motorbike North Pakistan
Benefits of Joining a Group Tour
The argument in favor of guides.
1. Access.
This is the part I already touched on. With Sana and Alex — you can go ANYWHERE. They also have the inside scoop on road conditions in real-time which means you can adjust your route as you go instead of turning around at a landslide point or due to local clashes with the dam workers.
They can also procure special permits to get you into more contentious regions of the country AND sweet talk the police into skipping the escorts.
2. Knowledge of neat attractions.
Foreign tourism is very very low in comparison with local tourism. This means finding where exactly is worth going is difficult. Most blogs all talk about *destinations* rather than specific attractions. Generic things like “go to Hunza Valley” instead of specifics like “hike across Passu bridge to the local village on the other side”. We would not have found all the cool places we did if we had been on our own. An experienced local guide is absolutely invaluable.
3. Context.
It’s cool to motorbike across the country and see the sights. But it’s cooler if you actually learn something while you do it. Pakistan is a really complex country. Traveling with Alex and Sana we talked about the religious minorities, women in Pakistan, history, food, and could ask anything we wanted about the culture. I left with a real understanding of Pakistan (or at least a far better one) rather than just cool photos.
4. Easier Female Travel.
As a woman, travel in Pakistan can be taxing. There are a lot of customs to learn and follow. It can help to have someone who speaks English to explain this and make sure you don’t make a huge faux pas every time you interact with people. They can ALSO act as a buffer when men overstep and make you uncomfortable. Traveling solo as a woman in Pakistan is possible (Alex has done it for years), but it’s not for the faint of heart.
5. They can procure alcohol for you.
Not a necessity, but a huge plus. Local spirits, wine, and beer do exist! They just are difficult for an outsider to get their hands on. Even though technically you can only purchase alcohol if you are foreign or non-Muslim, you need to find someone in the know to even know where to make the purchase.
6. You can cover more ground.
Tours have carefully crafted itineraries and have done all the planning and work for you. If you had to do it all yourself the same trip would take well over a month. If you are short on time— or even if you’re not — this is the most efficient way to see more of the country.
7. Did I mention they have a backup vehicle?
This was a major selling point for me. My biggest fear when it came to motorbiking in Pakistan independently was what to do if something happened mechanically with the bike. Would we be stranded in the middle of remote wilderness with not a soul in sight?
Alex and Sana bring along a driver with a large truck to carry you and the bike in case something goes awry. And it will. These roads are notorious for popping tires on sharp landslide stones and deep potholes. This vehicle can also carry the bulk of your gear making the ride much easier. Less for you to haul around and a safety net in case you wind up over the handlebars.
8. FOOD.
Finding the BEST local food is easier with a knowledgeable guide. Everyone we met had only so-so things to say about Pakistani food but thanks to our lovely guides we got THE BEST of Pakistani cuisine and rarely ate the same dish twice. Without a guide, you’ll only be offered what the restaurant has lots of as full English-written menus are rare.
Downsides of Joining a Group Tour
Just to be fair I’ll include the downsides as well.
1. It is more expensive.
If you were to drive the route independently you could spend less money. Pakistan is one of the cheapest countries in the world. But accommodation is not cheap in the north. Not for foreigners anyway. Unless you plan on couch surfing you can expect to spend around $25-50 per night for a private room. When you travel with a Pakistani guide the rooms are cheaper. This means if you rent the bike and have to pay for accommodation yourself that’s a minimum of around $900 for 2 weeks. No food, no safety net, no expertise, no gas, etc. The savings might not be as much as you think. Especially if something goes wrong with the bike.
2. You might not like your group.
14 days is a long time to spend with people you don’t like. But hopefully, you do. Because anyone who wants to visit Pakistan on a motorbike is likely to be kinda similar right? Alex and Sana host small groups with no more than 8 people, it’s not an overwhelmingly large gathering.
You’re on group time!
Fortunately, it’s a small group but it’s a group nonetheless. This is a sacrifice you’ll have to make. Fortunately, this can be a positive at times too. If you’re typically a little slow-moving, the group will kick your butt into gear. But there was lots of flexibility and free time on the tour with Lost With Purpose.
The Best Way to Motorbike Northern Pakistan
Spoiler: I think first-time visitors to Pakistan should join a group tour if they want to motorbike North Pakistan. Specifically, the Lost With Purpose Motorcycle Tours.
I’ve been beating around the bush here a little bit. Because while this far this post has been all about how to motorbike North Pakistan — what I really want to tell you is WHY traveling with Lost With Purpose and Coyote Trails on a group tour was the best way to motorbike Northern Pakistan.
And again…this is not a sponsored post and I get nothing from you booking with them. I just was genuinely so impressed with their collective knowledge of the country and the way they run their tours. Now that I have visited Pakistan multiple times, it’s even more evident to me how ESSENTIAL it was that I visited the country with a guide for at least a portion of my first trip. I would never have fallen in love with Pakistan otherwise.
The ONLY Motorbike Tour Operator You Should Choose
The reason we chose Lost With Purpose’s motorbike tour with Coyote Trails was their extensive knowledge and expertise.
Sana from Coyote Trail is a charismatic happy-go-lucky Pashtun local who is well-connected and well-known within Pakistan (being from a political family, worked in the UN, and with a security background).
Alex is a female American travel blogger who has been traveling solo and motorbiking in Pakistan for YEARS. She too is so incredibly well-connected and respected within the country and has so much insight and information to offer from an outsider’s perspective.
I’m always skeptical of “influencer” run tours. I think that they can be really watered down and dilute the importance of local guides who actually know the country. BUT Alex from Lost With Purpose is different. She ONLY runs tours in Pakistan. She has an incredible understanding of the very complicated country. As a woman, having an experienced woman in charge of the tour offered an insight that no male-run tour could have.
If you are a woman and aren’t down to motorbike, Lost With Purpose also offers women’s tours where you can meet like-minded women while traveling the country via van.
Sana and Alex are friends as well as business owners. It made it easy for the group to all become close friends and to have real candid conversations about Pakistani culture without offending anyone.
Sense of Adventure Still Required
Taking a guided motorcycle tour of Pakistan in no way deluded the adventure. Please feel free to message me on Instagram if you have any questions about the tour or simply planning your independent journey as you motorbike North Pakistan. Motorcycle is the best way to see this remote and rugged section of the country. Just be sure to solicit the help of those who have done it before you and those who can help you along the way!
Motorbike North Pakistan Later!
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