How to Visit The Tsaatan: Mongolia’s Nomadic Reindeer Tribe

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Summary: The quintessential Mongolian adventure. A chance to immerse in the life of Mongolia’s last truly nomadic tribes reachable by 12 hours of off-road travel & 4 hours on horseback. 

Seeing the reindeer herders of Mongolia was the very first thing I added to my Mongolia bucketlist. The innocuous blue pin on my map seemed as simple to reach as any other destination in the country. But that was wishful thinking. We were traveling independently, in a 4×4 rented in UB, and simply getting to the meeting point in Tsaaganuur turned out to be quite a challenging endeavor (don’t worry I have easier options for you).

That being said our weekend spent with Zaya and the Tsaatan Tribe community was easily my favorite experience in Mongolia. It was raw and authentic, with no Disney-fication of their rich culture and traditions. It was informative and eye-opening as well as being the most naturally beautiful landscape we witnessed in weeks. 

This guide is meant to help you have a similar experience with the reindeer herders while making sure your tourist dollars go directly to the community and the preservation of their unique culture. 

Before you visit Mongolia be sure to read our blog post on everything you need to know before you go.

A Quick Synopsis: The Tsaatan Tribe of Mongolia

Before I dive into the dirty details of how to visit, let’s talk about who you’re visiting. 

The nomads of the Tsaatan Tribe are reindeer herders. A tightly knit community that live alongside their herds of reindeer in some of the most remote locations in the country. Today, there are about 80 families split into two groups spread across the East and West Taiga. 

The 14 families (about 40 people) living in East Taiga are who you will be visiting with the help of their only English-speaking resident Zaya. 

What exactly is the Taiga? It’s a huge region of forest that spills across the Mongolian/Russian border in the region of Siberia.

The community moves seasonally (about 15 times per year) to provide optimal grazing ground for their reindeer. The reindeer love a certain kind of lichen which means they move often to find it. Mongolia’s nomadic reindeer tribes’ fall camp is only about a 1-hour drive + a 4-hour horseback ride from the northern town of Tsaagaanuur. This is when your visit to the tribe will be most feasible. Coincidentally, this is also during peak tourism season.

A Lasting Stigma

Fun Fact: Basically the whole of Mongolia thinks that Zaya has been hypnotized by the Tsaatan shaman and forced to stay in the Taiga against her will. It’s a crazy story but it’s difficult for many people to understand why an American-Mongolian woman who lived in the US and was college-educated in Beijing would choose to marry a tribal man and live in one of the harshest environments on earth. But she loves her life and has no plans to return to UB. 

Also, like many traditional/indigenous people around the world, the Tsaatan tribe also faces a lot of discrimination from fellow Mongolians. This is due to their roaming and history of crossing borders in their Siberian range.

Historically, the Tsaatan people actually spent most of their time in Russia’s Siberian region but decades ago when the soviet union fell and Mongolia became its own fully independent country– some of the Tsaatan relocated to the Mongolian range permanently. Mongolia agreed to give them full citizenship but many Mongolians still think of them as second-class citizens.

What Do They Use the Reindeer For? 

Milk, cheese, transport of their goods as they move from place to place, transport of themselves (yes, they ride them), and when they get old and feeble — for meat. 

They love their reindeer and choose not to eat them on a regular basis. But when an animal gets old, this is a no-waste community.

What to Expect When Visiting Mongolia’s Nomadic Reindeer Tribe

Now let’s talk about YOUR visit to Mongolia’s Reindeer Herders.  

This is not a typical guided tour. You are simply getting an opportunity to walk in the shoes of Mongolia’s nomadic reindeer tribe for a few days. Here’s what your visit will typically look like. 

A Typical Tour

1. You’ll meet Zaya in Murun or Tsaagaanuur depending on your mode of transport. 
2. You’ll make the arduous journey via car and then horseback to the current camp. 
3. You’ll set yourself up in Zaya’s spare teepee. 
4. You’ll spend the rest of your visit enjoying the views, petting reindeer, and meeting the other community members. 
5. You’ll return the same way you came. 

You should be comfortable not showering for the duration of your visit, using an outdoor squat toilet, eating meat or not eating, and ready to endure long hours over rough terrain in a horse saddle. 

It’s not structured. It’s not luxury. Instead, it’s real, rough-and-ready travel. I would compare it to when we stayed in the Iraqi Mesopotamian Marshes with Abo Haidar. This is what makes this place so special. It’s truly unspoiled by the modern world. It’s a chance to disconnect and immerse in nature. As well as an opportunity to learn about a lifestyle abundantly different from your own.

Before You Visit the Mongolian Reindeer Herder’s…

1. There are NO ATMs (that work for foreign cards) beyond Murun on the way to Tsaagaanuur.

You will need to get all the way from Murun BACK to Murun with the cash you have. Depending on the length of your stay and mode of transport this will probably be around 4-6 days of travel.

2. Nowhere in this region takes card so be sure to bring lots and lots of cash. 

3. You will need to bring donations to the community when you visit.

I guess it’s not required…but it’s a Mongolian custom to come bearing gifts and once you see where the tribe lives you’ll understand how much a simple gift of flour or hand lotion can make life easier. 

4. You will have to procure a permit to visit this region as it is close to the Russian border.

This requires one full day in Murun. I’ll explain the whole process below but it’s pretty simple it just takes a little time.

5. You’ll spend one night in Tsagaannuur before & after your trip with Zaya. 

Because the camp is reached by horseback you should allocate 2 days, one on either end of your trip, to stay in Tsagaannuur.

6. You won’t bring all your luggage with you to the reindeer camp.

Instead, pack a day bag with the essentials I outline in the packing section below and leave the rest behind with the guesthouse in Tsagaannuur. Your luggage will be transported by a luggage horse and there’s not a ton of room for non-essentials.

7. Bring extra cash for souvenirs!

The Tsaatan make some really cool handicrafts from reindeer bone and antlers. They also have some jewels and gemstones they have collected from the countryside. It’s a nice little income for them to sell the products they make and find. The US, EU, and Canada allow these kinds of goods to be transported back home but places like New Zealand and Australia don’t allow bone/antler products to come back with you. So check your country’s regulations before you go.

How to visit the Tsaatan Tribe 

Now that you know what exactly you are visiting (and why it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience) let’s talk about how to visit. 

Zaya is the answer. She is the gateway to Mongolia’s nomadic reindeer tribe. You should not book any tour through anyone besides her. 

I REPEAT. YOU SHOULD NOT BOOK A TOUR WITH ANYONE BESIDES HER. 

This is crucially important. (And no, I’m not getting a kickback for any bookings with this woman.) It’s important because in recent years tour companies from Ulaanbaatar and other large cities have started to bring tourists to the camp. The problem with these companies is they pocket almost all the money for themselves with the tribe seeing very little if any. 

Why it matters: The reindeer herders of Mongolia live in harsh conditions. They are essentially survivalists living off the land through ancient cultural traditions passed down for generations. Today, they live off a $60 monthly stipend from the government to help maintain their way of life. (Thankfully Mongolia knows their way of life is worth protecting). But they recieve this money because Mongolia banned hunting. This was previously how the Tsaatans fed themselves in the wilderness. Tourism is another way that they can earn a salary of their own in this remote location. 

On top of that your random UB guide will have no affiliation with the tribe itself and therefore even if they do happen to speak English, will have little firsthand information to share with you. Trust me, you’ll want it. Also, Zaya is LOVELY. She might be the single nicest person we met in all of Mongolia. 

Zaya’s Contact Information

Zaya WhatsApp: +976 9977 0480

Zaya Email:  zaya_004@yahoo.com

As she does not have service 90% of the time make sure to reach out in advance so she has time to get back to you. 

What about the tours offered in Tsagaannuur?

If you happen to make it all the way to Tsagaannuur without talking to Zaya, Erdene Zu Guesthouse offers tours to the camp as well. This is still not as ideal as going directly with Zaya, but they do contribute a sum of money to the local community. You should always try to reach Zaya first. Then, use Erdene Zu Guesthouse as a backup.

Best Time of Year to Visit

June – September 

September will start to get very cold at the fall camp. July & August are the ideal months to plan your visit. 

Depending on which camp the herders are located at — your horseback ride could be anywhere from 4 to 8 hours. There’s no way to know until you talk to Zaya.

How Long Should You Plan to Stay With The Tsaatan

You cannot visit the tribe in one single day. You must stay overnight. I would recommend staying for no less than 2 to 3 nights to really enjoy the natural environment and take full advantage of the place after you have traveled so far to be there. 

It’s not just the horseback rides. To reach the region, you’ll travel overland for a minimum of 12 hours and have to return the same way you came. 

How to Get Your Permit 

You will need one full day in Murun to secure your permit to visit Mongolia’s nomadic reindeer tribe. We thought we could expedite this process by reaching out via WhatsApp a few days before but…nada. This is bureaucracy after all.

Zaya can arrange this process for you. The permit costs only about $5 per person. 

Essentially, as soon as you show up in Murun you should head to Bata’s Guesthouse. The guy works with Zaya and once you deliver your passports he will take them to the TCVC office in charge of tourism in the Taiga (fun fact: Zaya used to work with the organization that set this up back in 2006, this is how she ended up in the Taiga in the first place) and wait around until the permit is issued. You *could* wait around in the office all day yourselves but at $5 a permit including whatever his cut is…it seems silly to waste your time to save maybe a dollar.

Meeting Up With Zaya to See the Mongolian Reindeer Herders

Where you choose to meet Zaya affects the cost of your trip. I have a cost breakdown at the end of this post but what really makes a difference is WHERE you meet Zaya.

This map shows the distance between Murun and Tsagaannuur.

This is because the “start point” of the journey to the herders is Tsagaannuur, which is in the middle of nowhere up towards the Russian border. The map here shows it by a different name, but just ignore that. The town is essentially 3 small streets by a huge scenic lake. Many people choose to meet Zaya in the larger city of Murun to make their journey a little easier. Here is a breakdown of your options.

If you plan to meet her in Murun…

She will provide you with transport to Tsagaannuur. This will likely take about 12.5 hours in a car. This is the option I would recommend for most travelers. It’s also the most expensive option on this list. But WAY less complicated.

If you plan to meet her in Tsagaannuur…

You have two options.

Option 1: Drive Yourself

This is what we did and it was a doozy of a drive. While this is a totally possible feat… we did it…kind of, it’s a two-day off-road journey between the two cities.

We took the wrong road, got stuck, and had to be rescued in the middle of the night from a muddy river. But that’s neither here nor there. It’s possible for the intrepid travelers. Getting to Mongolia’s nomadic reindeer tribe in no walk in the park.

If you want to drive yourself to Tsagaannuur read this next section below otherwise feel free to skip ahead. 

DRIVING YOURSELF: The Map from Murun to Tsaagaanuur 

As you can see I’ve also mapped the last ATM, gas stations, and ideal stopping points. Don’t be fooled— this 270 KM will take you two full days which I have outlined in different colors.

Day One Murun to Tugal

Day one you can follow the route suggested on maps.me. Don’t deviate from what you perceive as a shortcut because it likely leads to a boggy area. Also, the gold route on Google Maps is most definitely NOT the way to go.

Day Two Tugal to Tsagaannuur  

You can’t trust Google Maps or Maps.Me at all on the second drive day. Both will guide you on the “winter route”. This is what we accidentally took and ended up stuck in a river. The real route is roughly outlined here and as you can see neither map even registers it as a road. You’ll be able to follow the tracks in the tundra clearly through here. Garmin does have the route however and a Garmin watch would be a good investment for this trip!

Both days will be rough off-road trails that zig-zag across one another. Sometimes it will be muddy and boggy. You’ll have to cross rivers (in the right places) and you’ll often be dozens of miles from civilization. You’ll have to be totally self-sufficient and you should have a tent, ample water, and food just in case of an emergency. Read my full guide on independently overlanding in Mongolia to be sure this route is for you. 

This is the most difficult drive BY FAR that we have done in the country (a country known for difficult roads) and I would only recommend it to people who have off-roading experience and good problem-solving skills. 

If you do happen to get stuck like we did and happen to have cell reception then Zaya is your best bet of a speedy rescue. She can get someone to come remove you ASAP. 

Option 2: Take Public Transport

Public transport in Mongolia is a shared car situation with the very popular Russian vans you see everywhere. This is the cheapest way to get to Tsagaannuur. Vans run semi-regularly (in high season usually daily) to Tsagaannuur from Murun and vice versa. They go 15 hours straight, overnight, and are notoriously uncomfortable. But they are cheap. Usually around $30-ish per person. Prices fluctuate by the number of people.

What to Pack When Visiting the Reindeer Herders 

You’ll leave the bulk of your bags in Tsagaannuur. You don’t want to haul everything you own on a horse after all. But this is the list of items it’s important to bring in your day sack to the nomad’s camp. 

• Sleeping Bag (provided to us by Drive Mongolia) 
• Sleeping Mat (provided to us by Drive Mongolia) 
• Warm outer layers. Preferably a coat & a smaller fleece. 
• Under layers. Leggings, t-shirt, long-sleeve. Weather is unpredictable even in the summer and you’ll want to be prepared for whatever conditions. 
• Warm socks for sleeping. 
• Teva Sandals for camp. 
• Tennis shoes for horseback riding. 
• Snacks for yourself. Meals will be hearty but only reindeer tea will be served in between. I was starving on the horseback ride and wished I had thought to pack snacks. 
• Lifestraw Waterbottle. This is one of those rare occasions where a filter bottle is actually essential. In camp, the nomads drink river water and there is a lot of livestock around. We filtered all of ours with the Lifestraw. 
• Hand sanitizer and baby wipes. For keeping a mild level of cleanliness. 
• Camera and drone. Both are allowed. 
• Cash for souvenirs. The tribe carves reindeer antlers and makes things from fur that they sell to visitors. Items range from $3-$40. 

Note on packing: There is no shower and no one to impress here. Don’t bring multiple of any clothing item it’s likely you’ll wear the same outfit (just plus or minus layers) the entire weekend. I have a full packing list for Mongolia here.

Things you should not bring…

This is almost equally important. Don’t waste energy and space carting these items. 

• Makeup or shower items for yourself. 
• Impractical clothing like dresses. 
• Tent.

Donations to Bring Mongolia’s Nomadic Reindeer Tribe

As I mentioned above you should bring gifts for the Tsaatan tribe during your visit. Consider it a requirement of your stay. You are showing up and sleeping in their home after all. 

We saw numerous blogs posting a huge list of what to bring but no one really told us how much. So we asked Zaya and this is exactly what we brought: 

• 1 small case of cigarettes (about 10 packs)
• 6 laundry soap bars 
• 6 boxes of tea 
• 6 large boxes of matches 
• 2 bottles of hand lotion 
• 2 packages of batteries (AA & AAA) 
• 3 children’s coloring books 

But here are a few things we wish we brought that they would LOVE if you brought them…

• Digital Wristwatch. The women have a strict milking schedule they must follow and without electricity, they rely on some ridiculous old clocks they have tucked in their coats. We helped fix a woman’s small plastic clock that she had had for 15 years. It doesn’t have to be an expensive one, but battery-powered!
• Bell peppers are a rarity in the Taiga. You’ll be a favorite around dinnertime. 
• Toothpaste, toothbrush, floss. Dentists are very very far away. 
• Lighters and candles. 
• Wool socks for winter. 
• Bandaids and small first aid. 
• Wind up flashlights. So they don’t have to rely totally on batteries. 
• Salt for the reindeer. This is their favorite little treat. 
• Extra butane or cooking oil. 

If you plan to visit the Shaman of the tribe you’ll need to bring these additional items. 

• $100 
• 1 liter of Vodka 
• Milk 
• Cigarettes 
• Cookies & Candy 

Zaya will help you procure the right amount of each item for your group. Just be sure to tell her in advance if you want to arrange a visit.

Note on the Shaman: We did a shaman visit and I feel like unless you really feel a connection to this religion and want to heal your mental and spiritual health you should skip the ceremony. 

Cost Breakdown of Visiting Mongolia’s Nomadic Reindeer Tribe

Now let’s talk about the estimated cost of this visit. Keeping in mind this was one of the coolest things we’ve ever had the opportunity to do…it’s not the cheapest. 

If you meet Zaya in Tsagaannuur it will cost you about $200 per person to visit the tribe for 3 days and 2 nights. 

This includes one night stay in a guesthouse in Tsagaannuur before your visit, the one-hour car ride to the horses, the horseback ride to the camp, 2 dinners, 1 lunch, and 2 breakfasts (all meals during our stay), 2 nights staying in the extra teepee, and a final night stay in Tsagaannuur after the trip. Basically, all-inclusive for the duration of your stay with 4-nights of accommodation covered.

The only things not included are your donations to the camp.

If you require a pick-up and drop-off in Murun, it will cost between $300-$400 more. This is for a private vehicle and is split between your whole group. If you’re traveling with more than 2 people this could be a viable option.

The Coolest Thing We Did in All of Mongolia

Visiting Mongolia’s nomadic reindeer tribe was my favorite thing we did in all of Mongolia. Zaya was warm and welcoming and the experience is one of the few totally non-touristic nomad experiences left to be had in the world. If you had to choose only one thing to splurge on in Mongolia — this is that activity. 

Save Mongolia’s Nomadic Reindeer Tribe for Later!