Is Iraq Safe? Tips From an American Woman Traveling Iraq

This post may contain affiliate links. This just means I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you for helping them promote their product or service. I don’t endorse any services I don’t personally use or recommend.

Honestly, it became fun watching our friends’ and families’ faces as we told each we were headed to Iraq next. They were usually shocked. Sometimes a bit concerned. Years of car bomb explosions, ISIS occupation, and violent warfare are pretty much all that Americans associate with the country. It’s just not a place that people in the US would ever consider visiting. Until recently. But there is a difference between simply traveling to Iraq and visiting Iraq as an American woman.

This blog post is meant to honestly + candidly lay out the concerns and extra precautions you should take as an American, woman, or in my case both, before planning a trip to Iraq.

And answer the question on everyone’s mind…is Iraq safe?

After dipping our toes into the Arab culture as we traveled through Egypt, Jordan, and Turkey, we felt ready for an adventure. Iraq was literally next door. And they had opened their borders to American, Canadian, and European tourists just the year before. So, we went. We spent 2 weeks hopping from city to city in Federal Iraq and then road-tripped through the mountains of Iraqi Kurdistan. It was an incredible experience. Iraq is one of the few countries left in the world where you can feel like a real adventurer.

Is Iraq Safe for Travel?

Yes + No.

Do I recommend you travel there? Most likely. I’ll get to that in a moment.

Nowhere on planet earth is 100% safe to travel. Car accidents happen. Dengue fever or other tropical disease strikes. Grocery store shootings occur (in the good ol’ USA anyways). Every country comes with its own unique set of risks that you have to weigh for yourself. Let’s talk about the most dangerous parts of travel in Iraq.

Car accidents are commonplace in Iraq.

We saw the twisted metal bodies of crushed vehicles littered all over the roadsides. & people drive like madmen. One taxi driver when asked to slow down said “he only fears Allah”. Not my favorite. You can’t drive yourself (in federal Iraq) + you can’t just stay in Baghdad so you will have to risk your neck out on the roads.

ISIS may or may not still exist in the furthest corners of the country.

The truth is there are tons of small insurgency groups within the borders of Iraq. But you can be 99.99999% that you aren’t going to come into contact with them. There’s a reason Iraq has roadblocks everywhere. This keeps the terrorist groups on the fringe of the Iraqi desert. Far from anywhere you’ll be.

As far as bodily harm is concerned, that’s pretty much it. You might get a bout of food poisoning or an upset stomach from the mass amounts of oil in the food. You might become extremely uncomfortable if you’re unlucky enough to be harassed by an ultra-conservative religious zealot not fond of foreigners.

What About As An American?

Guess what? Not everyone likes us.

And Iraqi people in particular have a very complicated relationship with the United States. We’ve been their ally and also their enemy in recent decades. George Bush is universally hated within Iraq. I would assess that it was about a 70/30 split between people being happy I was visiting as an American and people who instantly became apprehensive of me.

As a privileged white woman from the USA, this is the first time I have experienced this and it was very eye-opening. I’m sure people of Middle Eastern or African heritage get this all the time when traveling in predominately white countries.

Most people just got quiet. But a few felt the need to leap into an explanation of why the US is horrible and all the horrific things we’ve done to them and their families. Never did I feel threatened, but often I felt a little ashamed of my home country.

If at any time you feel uncomfortable disclosing that you are American…say you’re Canadian. Everyone likes them.

As a Woman?

Traveling in the Middle East or other patriarchal societies can be a hassle for women. And I would be lying if I said it didn’t increase the danger level. Or at least the perceived level of danger.

I think that you can safely travel to Iraq as an experienced female traveler.

You 100% will have more rules to follow than your male counterparts and you’ll be required to stick to a strict modest dress code. But that’s such a small sacrifice to make.

As a Solo Woman?

This is where things get a little trickier.

I don’t know that I could in good conscience recommend my female friends to visit Iraq solo.

With a group of women? Or even just one other woman? Yes. Undoubtedly. With a little travel-savvy and some previous experience in the Middle East, you’ll get along great.

But alone…is hard. Because it’s not universally accepted in Iraq. As a foreign woman, you’ll already be a spectacle + women in Iraq never travel alone. It’s just not something they are used to. Unless you have A LOT of experience SOLO in Arabic countries, I think that Iraq would be a profoundly difficult and maybe unenjoyable travel destination.

So, Should YOU Plan a Trip to Iraq?

This is really what you’re asking. Is Iraq safe enough for YOU to travel there?

These are the questions I think you should honestly ask yourself before you book your flight. If you can answer yes to all or most of them, I think that you would have no problem traveling to Iraq independently.

• Have you traveled outside of Europe, Canada, Australia, & the USA?
• Have you visited at least one predominately Muslim country?
• Are you comfortable being the only woman in the room?
• Are you willing to follow the cultural norms and let go of your Western ideals?
• Can you handle a little bit of “roughing it”?
• Are you comfortable around a heavy military/police presence + guns?
• Can you handle it if someone hates you? Criticizes you? Harasses you?
• Are you self-sufficient and not prone to panic when things go awry?
• Can you strike up a conversation with strangers?
• If you’re a solo woman I would recommend visiting several slightly difficult Arab countries solo first. Like Egypt.

But don’t fret!! If you can’t answer yes to all of them I still think you should visit Iraq. I think you need a tour. Iraq is not a beginner destination. But with an experienced guide literally, anyone can visit Iraq. Bilweekend tours are a great option for travelers looking to see Iraq (even if this is your first international trip!) and get access to sites that independent travelers can’t visit on their own.

Iraqi Kurdistan or Northern Iraq is the safest region of Iraq. If you can’t answer yes to all of the above + don’t want a tour, I would recommend just visiting Iraqi Kurdistan. Steer clear of Federal Iraq. Here’s my guide for Iraqi Kurdistan if you feel that’s more your speed.

I wrote a guide covering all the things you NEED to know before you visit Iraq. Come prepared.

Destinations You Can Safely Visit in Iraq

Let’s talk briefly about where to go in Iraq. Because not everywhere is safe to visit. These are the places tourists can travel to within the country.

• Baghdad
• Mosul
• Karbala
• Babylon
• Najaf
• Nasiriyah (Mesopotamian Marshes)
• Basra
• Iraqi Kurdistan (all of it).

For a full Iraq itinerary with all the important details be sure to check out my 2 weeks in Iraq blog post.

Your Complete Guide to Travel in Iraq as a Woman

Now that we have established that visiting Iraq is in the cards for you…let’s get you ready to handle all the country might throw at you just because of your gender.

Because yes, traveling in Iraq as a woman is far more difficult than traveling as a man. And if you happen to be a solo woman, it’s even more difficult.

Things to be Aware of as a Woman

Life for men + women is not the same in Iraq.

Iraq is a devoutly religious country. Although there are no actual legal rules that differ for women existing in the public space…there are a lot of cultural norms and implied rules that we must try to follow as visitors.

Fortunately, as a foreigner, we are given a lot of freedoms local women are not. We essentially get to do all the things typically reserved only for men. We can visit all-male tea houses, we can smoke cigarettes, and we can drink (yes, there is alcohol in Iraq).

I even went without a headscarf in Mosul and Baghdad. And nearly all of Iraqi Kurdistan.

As a general rule of thumb: the further South you venture the more religiously conservative people are. As a foreign woman, I felt more and more out of place with each mile of highway. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit, it just means you should take extra care.

Here are a few other things you should know about visiting Iraq as a woman.

• Headscarves are a must when walking around anywhere in Southern Iraq (Nasiriyah, Basra) + good to wear in crowded marketplaces.
• Headscarves also should be worn at military checkpoints along the highway.
• Never leave your hotel without your passport. You need it even when just walking around Baghdad.
• Don’t plan your visit during Ramadan or Eid. It will be extraordinarily difficult to find food + Eid is the time when most women report sexual harassment or feeling unsafe. I experienced this in Mumbai.
• You will likely not be able to enter a mosque during the time of prayer (or right before prayer). Always check the daily prayer times before you go.
• Be prepared to have all eyes on you at all times. You are a spectacle. People will want selfies, photos, and to strike up a conversation if they speak English. Tourism is not yet common enough for foreign women to seem like a normal part of daily life.
• Some people will look at you with outright disgust. Disdain. Whatever you want to call it. You will not be liked by everyone.
• Weather matters in Iraq. The dress code for women is not good in the heat. Avoid summer like the plague and try not to visit sites in the heat of the day so you don’t keel over.
• Always take your hotel business card. Also, utilize ride-sharing apps. It’s easy to get lost if you don’t speak Arabic.
• Most sights close at 3 PM + some markets only operate during the day or evening. Be sure to research opening hours.
• Iraqi Travelers Cafe (Facebook Group) is a great resource for meeting fellow travelers and locals. Don’t be afraid to meet up with people even if you’re solo.
• Don’t give your social media to everyone who asks. I now get hundreds of sometimes inappropriate messages from Iraqi men.

What to Pack + What to Wear in Iraq

It’s time for the dress code ladies. It’s really not that complicated. Countries like Iran are far more strict and conservative when it comes to female attire. Here’s what you should pack or prepare to purchase for your visit to Iraq.

• Two Headscarves. One colorful, one neutral.
• Long billowing (not form-fitting) pants.
• Ankle or mid-calf-length skirts and dresses.
• T-shirts, long-sleeves, 3/4 sleeves.
• One long-sleeve shawl (in case the t-shirts don’t cut it).
• Footwear is up to you. But please no heels.

No leggings, no jeans, no above-the-knee bottoms whatsoever, no tank tops or tube tops. No tops that show your mid-drift. Basically, dress like you’re going with your great-grandmother to church. Clothes in Iraq are super cheap so if you find yourself in need of a few more conservative outfits, it’s easy to find.

If/When you choose to purchase an Abaya– keep in mind that Iraqi women prefer the all-black style. The flower-patterned one is Iranian. Iraq and Iran have strained (at best) relations so maybe steer clear of that one.

Other Things You Should Pack for Iraq

Here are a few items I think you could benefit from packing.

• An external phone charger or power bank.
• A small secure travel purse or fanny pack.
• Travel sheet or blanket if you plan on visiting the Mesopotamian Marshes overnight.

Apps You Should Download Right Now

If you’re visiting Iraq these are the apps you need to download to make your trip go smoothly.

• WhatsApp. This is what the entire world uses to communicate.
• Careem. The Iraqi Uber.
• Google Translate. English isn’t widely spoken and Google translate lets you download languages offline. When you’re online however you can even take photos of menus and automatically translate them.
• ArabiCalc. Arabic numbers are different than English. This makes haggling exceptionally hard. But not when you have a calculator.
• Maps.Me. Always my favorite offline map. This works great if you plan on hiking or road tripping in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Mosque Etiquette for Women in Iraq

Some of the most beautiful sights in Iraq are mosques. I was blown away by the Islamic architecture, dazzling jewels + solid gold domes, and the intricate colorful ceramic insides. But there are strict rules for visiting mosques, especially as a woman.

Obviously, everyone entering the mosque will be barefoot. There is usually a place to check your shoes in. Otherwise, just set them outside the door.

Your hair must always be covered.

Usually, a headscarf is fine. A few mosques/shrines we visited (in the holy cities, Baghdad, + in Erbil) required you to wear a full abaya. Typically, if that is the case they will have some available to rent. But to avoid being denied entry, I bought one and wore it to most mosques we visited. It’s an added element of respect.

You can’t visit during prayer time.

This isn’t a rule specifically geared towards women. It’s a rule for all non-muslim visitors. The time of worship should be private and not a tourist attraction. While we’re at it, avoid taking photos of people inside the mosques.

You should be quiet while inside.

Follow the example of other women inside the mosque. Typically, avoid eye contact and physical contact with any male worshippers. Walk around slowly and quietly. Overall, just be extra subdued and respectful while inside.

Rules for the Holy Cities Karbala + Najaf

Karbala and Najaf are the two holiest cities in Iraq. Every year Muslims from around the world make pilgrimages to the shrines in each city. This means they are extra pious and have additional rules for visiting.

• These are full abaya shrines. Be extra careful to put it on properly and make sure ALL your hair is completely covered.
• You will have to enter through the women-only entrance. If you are like me and visiting with your husband you won’t be allowed to enter together. Each has a respective entrance where you will be patted down and inspected before entry.
• No make-up. Like not even a trace. No chapstick. If you bring it with you in a purse…you also won’t be allowed inside.
• No power banks or any external charging devices.
• No nail polish. If you are wearing some you can wear long gloves to cover it up.
• You must wear socks.
• No cameras. Other than a cell phone.

During Ramadan, Eid, and other Muslim holidays the inside of the mosque will be segregated so men and women cannot intermingle. At other times, you’ll be able to meet back up with your partner after you’ve gone through the inspection. Just another reason to visit NOT during the holidays.

Should You Opt for a Tour of Iraq?

If you’re overwhelmed reading this post or you didn’t pass my “should you visit Iraq” test, then I would highly recommend a tour with Bilweekend (not sponsored).

There are lots of benefits to opting for a tour of Iraq. I’m an independent traveler through + through. But there were several times we reached out to Bilweekend to help get us access to restricted sights within the country. The Al-Nuri Mosque + the oldest Christian church in Mosul, our overnight tour in the Marshes, and a private walk-through of the Ziggurat of Ur. None of this would have been possible without their local connections.

If you’re short on time, nervous about visiting Iraq, traveling solo as a woman, or just want to visit everything Iraq has to offer I think a tour (private or group) is the way to go. Iraq isn’t a cheap country so traveling independently doesn’t even save you all that much money.

But we do have a budget travel guide to Iraq for those looking to spend less in the country.

The situation in Iraq is very fluid. Destinations you can and cannot go to are always changing. A knowledgeable tour operator can be extremely helpful for anyone wondering “is Iraq safe”. Especially women traveling in Iraq. If you have any questions about Iraq in general or traveling in Iraq as an American woman, feel free to reach out on Instagram!

Save This Post For Later!