Everything You NEED to Know Before Visiting Iraq (+ Iraq Travel Tips)

This post may contain affiliate links. This just means I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you for helping them promote their product or service. I don’t endorse any services I don’t personally use or recommend.

Let’s be honest. If you’re an experienced traveler you could conceivably wing every single trip and there’s not a ton you NEED to know before you go. But Iraq is a little different. Unless you want to spend a fortune, miss out on visiting certain historical sights, and suffer A LOT of mishaps along the way. There’s quite a bit you actually do need to know before you go to Iraq.

This blog post is going to be your lifeline in Iraq. Unlike us, you won’t have to learn things the hard way. I’m giving you all my Iraq travel tips and honest advice to help you enjoy your time in the country.

As of April 2022, you do not need to take a PCR test if you are vaccinated against COVID-19.

Visa on Arrival in Iraq

Good News! If you’re an American, Canadian, UK citizen, Australian, Swiss, Russian, Chinese, a New Zealander, South Korean, Japanese, or from an EU country you now qualify for visa on arrival as of 2021!

The cost is officially $77 cold hard cash. But it fluctuates between $75 and $80 depending on the officer.

Iraq operates on both the Iraqi Dinar + the US Dollar. At the airport, you will present your money + passport to the officer to the right of the customs line. He will collect everyone’s documents and then pass them out after he has stamped the visa inside.

Getting from the Airport to Baghdad: Unfortunately, due to security risks, only one kind of shuttle taxi is allowed to pick up from the airport. No Careem/Uber allowed. This means you’ll want to make some friends on your flight. It’s cheapest to split a taxi together into Baghdad since they charge 35,000-45,000 IQD ($23-$30) per vehicle. If you arrive in the daytime (most flights arrive at night) you can also opt to take the airport shuttle to Abbas Ibn Firnas Square for only 8,000 IQD ($5). Be sure to check out my detailed budget travel guide to Iraq if you’re interested in more money-saving tips.

You Must Arrive in Baghdad!

I repeat. If you plan to visit the country of Iraq as a whole (including Iraqi Kurdistan) you must arrive in Baghdad. This is because there are technically two visas in Iraq. The one valid for the entire country that you can only get in Baghdad. Or the one valid for just Iraqi Kurdistan that you will receive if you arrive in Erbil or overland via Turkey. If you get the wrong visa your entire trip through Federal Iraq is kaput. You can leave through whichever land or airport you want. We entered Baghdad + left through Erbil.

Best Time of Year to Visit

Typically, I’m a big proponent of shoulder season to avoid the peak prices + crowds. We visited Turkey’s Turquoise Coast in Spring rather than when the beaches would be jam-packed in Summer. But Iraq simply does not have crowds of tourists.

We visited one of the oldest and most famous historical sites in the country…and were the only people there. For hours.

It’s far more important to visit based on weather conditions and avoid major Muslim holidays.

Do not visit during Ramadan + Eid.

It becomes nearly impossible to find food during the day while people are fasting, you’ll battle crowds of worshippers at the holiest shrines, + be denied entry entirely to some mosques.

Do not visit during summer (Late June – Early September).

Federal Iraq is a desert. Even in May, there were days that the temps reached over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Sandstorms have become increasingly more common during the summer months as well.

Do not visit during the dead of winter (November- Early March).

Iraqi Kurdistan however is a mountainous landscape with snow-capped peaks well into the summer. If you plan on doing a Kurdistan road trip (which you 100% should) I would avoid the rain + potential snow of winter.

This pretty much leaves Late March – Early June (minus Ramadan) + September – November. It’s a small window. I highly recommend the months of April, May, September, + October.

How Long Should You Visit Iraq?

As long as possible. I had just under 3 weeks in the country. My friend Raman spent more than 3 months.

The perfect relaxed itinerary can be done in just over 2 weeks with proper planning.

But if you have the time (and money) I recommend you stay longer. Iraqi people are absolutely wonderful. You’ll be invited to dinner, to sight-see, and make some genuine friends if you have the time and flexibility in your plans to accept their invitations.

Join the Iraqi Traveller’s Cafe Facebook Group before you go. It’s filled with locals and travelers looking to connect in the country and offer travel advice. It’s the best on-the-ground travel info as well. This is a great resource if you are traveling solo.

Weather can quickly derail all the best-laid plans. Sandstorms make it impossible to leave your hotel for a day or two. It’s best to have a little longer in the country so that you can prepare for at least one delay due to inclement weather.

Iraq Travel Tips for Safety

I am an American woman + I managed to travel throughout Iraq without a hitch. I was traveling with my male partner, however.

That’s not to say it’s not “safe” for a solo female. If you’re experienced enough.

I’m not going to deep dive into all the safety precautions you should take in Iraq here because I wrote an entire guide on safety in Iraq.

Do You Need a Tour Guide?

NEED one? No.

But there were several times during our trip that we chose to work with Bilweekend and did not regret it. Overall, we enjoy independently traveling always. But Iraq has some destinations that are not accessible without a guide. Not “difficult” to access. The roadblocks simply will not let you through. So, it’s worth considering if you’re interested in seeing everything the country has to offer.

Here are the destinations you need a certified guide like Bilweekend to explore…

• Hatra.
• Al-Nuri Mosque in Mosul.
• Our Lady of Salvation Syriac Catholic cathedral in Mosul.
• Anywhere else far off the beaten path.

You will also need a guide if you plan on visiting the Iraqi Mesopotamian Marshes overnight.

Here are a few other instances it could be helpful to have a guide…

• As a solo female traveler. Iraq is a difficult destination for women. And it’s not the norm to have women wandering around alone. I don’t recommend Iraq for solo female travel unless you are very confident in your travel abilities.
• When visiting the holy city of Karbala. I’m accustomed to typical mosque etiquette. But this shrine takes it to a whole new level. Fortunately, I was hanging out with one of the Bilweekend guides that night and he instructed me on exactly how to enter the mosque. Seriously…I would not have made it in on my own. It was Eid + absolute madness.
• If you love history! Iraq has as much ancient history as Egypt. It does not however have information readily available for tourists at the sites themselves. Without a guide, you’ll be wandering ruins with no context.

My professional recommendation: If you are ready to visit Iraq, don’t do a full tour. Instead, reach out to Bilweekend (or a friend in Iraqi Travellers Cafe) and plan short day trips together. This will give you access to exclusive sights while still maintaining your independence.

Where to Get a SIM Card in Iraq

The airport.

Having a SIM card in Iraq is obviously not mandatory but it is exceptionally helpful.

The moment you arrive I suggest getting an Iraqi SIM card. We looked high + low in Baghdad and were never able to locate where you can actually purchase a SIM card + not just the data refill in the city. If you’re in a pickle like us, your hotel can suggest a place.

We did manage to get one on the street in Erbil once we reached Iraqi Kurdistan. It cost us about $20 including 5 GB of data. So, we can confirm that you can manage travel in Federal Iraq without a SIM card. All our hotels had at least decent WiFi.

Currency in Iraq

This is the single most important thing you need to know.

ATMs in Iraq will not work with US banks. BRING ALL YOU NEED IN CASH.

I brought over $2,000 cash with me. I recommend you bring $100 per day you plan to be in the country. You probably won’t use all of it, but this way you won’t have to worry about running out.

If you’re not from the US, there are mixed results on whether ATMs will work for you or not. I recommend bringing cash.

As I mentioned before Iraqi Dinar and USD are used interchangeably in Iraq. This means you can pay in USD and get your change in Dinar.

$1 = 1,500 IQD

Changing Currency in Iraq

If you’re looking to exchange some currency, however, just hit up one of the small streetside stands with photos of money on them. They look sketchy but it’s 100% legit. And if you’re exchanging US to IQD you’ll get an even better rate than the proper exchange. You’ll MAKE money while exchanging it.

This killer rate is only available with USD though. If you are from Europe or Canada I would try to arrive with USD instead.

Apps You Must Have in Iraq

Let’s prep your phone. These are the essential apps you should download to make your stay in Iraq easier.

• WhatsApp. You will talk with all your guides, friends, and hotels here.
• Maps.Me. Your best offline map.
• Careem. The Iraqi Uber.
• ArabiCalc. Arabic numbers are not like English ones. This will help you decipher the prices of things.
• Google Translate. Offline or online translation. English is not widely spoken.

Where to Visit in Iraq

Where is safe to visit? What are the can’t miss sights in Iraq? My personal favorite destinations?

You’ll have to pop on over to my complete Iraq itinerary post to find out.

Federal Iraq vs Iraqi Kurdistan

If you’re planning a trip to Iraq you’ve probably come across these words before. But what exactly is Iraqi Kurdistan?

Iraqi Kurdistan is the northern-most region of Iraq populated by an ethnic minority known as the Kurds. The Kurds inhabit regions of Turkey, Iran, and Syria as well. Legally speaking, Iraqi Kurdistan is a part of Iraq. When you get your Iraqi Visa (in Baghdad) it allows you to enter and travel throughout Iraqi Kurdistan as well.

Kurdistan is a little different than “Federal Iraq” or the Southern area of Iraq. The landscape is mountainous and lush with wildflowers and farming fields, for starters. Rather than barren desert sand. The people are a mix of Christian, Muslim, and Yazidi. The food is a little different too. The local government has much more autonomy over their region’s laws than would be typically allowed. The roads, therefore, are better maintained and the people of Kurdistan have a generally safer existence.

This means Kurdistan is safer for travelers as well.

I think that you should (+ can) easily visit both regions of Iraq during your visit to the country.

Tips for Traveling In Iraq

All the basic travel rules apply here. Haggle for the best prices, eat the street food, and follow the crowds for the best meals. But there are a few things that are unique to travel in Iraq you should know about.

1. Always ask the price ahead of time. Hotel rooms, taxis, food, tea, etc.
2. Tea is served with a mountain of sugar sitting at the bottom. Stir to your level of sweetness or simply ask for no sugar when you order.
3. Most meals have tea included.
4. Water, however, if served in a bottle is not free. If you drink it, it will be on the bill at the end.
5. There are occasional power outages. Usually, they are quick. No more than 10 minutes or so.
6. Public transportation is in either shared taxis that leave when full (small cars or 4×4 SUVs) or minibusses with no A/C.
7. Friday + Saturday are the weekends in Iraq.
8. Most tourist sights close by 3 PM. You should do all your monuments and historical sights in the morning if possible.
9. Markets however are thriving at night. Be sure to check out the Book Market at Al-Mutanabi street in Baghdad.
10. Nighttime is when the cities come alive. Mosques are just as busy at 3 AM as they are at 6 PM. Get used to late nights.
11. Alcohol is legal in Iraq + you’ll even find a few bars in Christian neighborhoods.
12. Every time you leave your hotel you NEED to bring your passport.
13. The situation in Iraq is always fluid. This means during your time in the country a destination may suddenly become off-limits.
14. As a woman, you need a headscarf. You also should dress very modestly and choose loose fabrics.
15. While many sights are free, most historical sights charge a $17 entrance fee. Babylon + the Ziggurat of Ur are two of them.

Military/Police Roads Blocks + Checkpoints

There are heavily armed and secured roadblocks everywhere. This is why you need your passport on you at all times. Sometimes you’ll encounter them simply walking around a city. When we were walking to dinner in Baghdad at night we were stopped twice by various military and police personnel and had to show our documents.

They are checking for valid visas and making sure the country remains a secure place to visit. It’s nothing to be concerned about.

It helps to always have a destination in mind to tell them because they often ask where you are going.

These roadblocks also mean that you will never accidentally enter a city you aren’t allowed to be in or visit an unsafe destination. They will turn you around if you are going somewhere not allowed.

Taarof. What is it + How to Navigate it?

This is one of the most interesting cultural customs in Iraq (+ Iran). Basically, it goes like this…

I order a juice (or ride in a taxi, try to buy a souvenir or a falafel sandwich), the salesman gives me my juice and when I try to pay… he gently shakes his head and says it’s free.

This is Taarof.

But the juice isn’t really free. I should pay for my juice. I insist on paying + we banter back and forth a few times with one of us (usually the salesman) giving in.

Occasionally, they will genuinely mean it and insist on you taking your good or service for free. But it’s Iraqi custom to argue it. For at least a little bit. It’s an artform figuring out who really wants you to take the gift and who is just being polite because you’re a guest in the country.

It’s baffling really.

During our time in Iraq, we got free tea, juice, and even a free taxi ride or two. But we also paid for many things they tried to offer us for free and won the politeness argument.

Where to Stay in Iraq

Hotels in Iraq aren’t cheap. We paid about $25 per night on average for two people. Our most expensive was $40 in Baghdad and our least expensive was $17 in Soran. You can see all the places we stayed and recommend in our complete Iraq itinerary.

*Important* Book This Hotel For Arrival

Bilitom Hotel.

Technically speaking, when you arrive in Iraq you are supposed to show a confirmed booking at one of 10 approved tourist hotels.

These hotels are all-around $100 or more per night and have horrible reviews. My customs officer did not ask for proof of booking but I know people who were forced to show proof or pay a $50 airport “booking fee”.

Fortunately, Bilitom Hotel allows anytime cancelation when you book on Booking.com. You can book ahead of time, show confirmation at the airport, and then cancel even on the day of the reservation.

Confirm this on your own booking.com account because obviously, things change. But at the time of writing, Bilitom still allows anytime cancellation and is one of the approved hotels by the Iraqi government.

What you need to know about hotels in Iraq

• If you are traveling as a male/female couple you should always say you are married. Otherwise, some hotels may deny you a room together. You should not be asked to present your marriage certificate unless you are Iraqi.
• Most hotels have a squat toilet.
• Rooms are acceptable for the price. Usually, they come with a free buffet breakfast. But often are a little dingy, dirty, and smell of cigarettes.
• Room prices are NEGOTIABLE. In some places, just saying you are a member of the Iraqi Travellers Cafe will get you a half-price room. You should expect to spend $17-$40 per night for a two-person room. Single rooms can be about half that. I often felt I was getting quoted a higher price as an American.
• There is only one hostel in all of Iraq. Dolphin Hostel in Sulaymaniyah.
• Be sure to ask specifically for their cheapest room if that’s what you want. Several times, they gave us a “family room” because it was big and had a living room included…when we definitely did not need a living room and would have been far happier paying less for a simple bedroom.

Getting Around Iraq

When traveling within a major city like Baghdad you should always use the Careem app. Or walk. Taxis, just like everywhere else in the world are out to overcharge you.

There are three ways to travel between cities. You can find all three transport options in the cities Karage or Garaage. For example, if you are in Baghdad trying to get to Karbala, just ask for the Karbala Garage.

Private Taxi.

This is the most expensive option unless you are a group of 3 or more. The benefit to a private taxi is you can leave when you want to and they drop you off at your desired destination so you don’t have to risk purchasing an additional Careem.

Shared Taxi.

If you are a group of 2 or less, this is much cheaper than the full taxi as you will only pay for your seat. Unfortunately, this means you have to wait until the taxi is full and they drop you off at a communal location which usually means you’ll have to book another Careem once you arrive.

Minibus.

This is the cheapest and my personal favorite option. There is no A/C, just open windows, and you’ll have to wait until the van is full.

Public Transport Routes + Prices for Federal Iraq

Let’s take a look at common routes and what they might cost you. Just so you can have a ballpark idea when you arrive to haggle.

These are your federal Iraq destinations. I highly recommend once you arrive in Iraqi Kurdistan (Mosul to Erbil) rent a car. I’ll outline everything you need to know about renting a car in Iraq below. The public transport from Mosul to Erbil should cost you around 5k IQD ($3.50) per person.

Where to Rent a Car in Iraqi Kurdistan

Kurdistan was one of my favorite road trips we have ever taken. We’ve driven the Ring Road in Iceland. We’ve spent a month driving through the Baja Mexico desert. We also spent a full year living in a campervan and visiting over 40 US National Parks.

Read my full Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip Guide here. It’s filled with Iraq travel tips specifically for the Kurdistan region.

But here are the details you need to know.

• You don’t need an international driver’s license. Just your home country’s license.
• You do need to bring your passport. Which meant you CAN NOT rent from Hertz who will insist they keep it as collateral.
• Rent from Ace Car Rental in Erbil instead. It’s cheaper.
• You don’t need a 4 x 4. The roads are nearly all paved and all are well maintained.
• I recommend staying out of Erbil and Sulaymaniyah with the car as much as possible. Cities are always more confusing to drive in.

Iraq Travel Tips About Food

You’re probably going to get real tired of bread, meat, and falafel. Date syrup + fresh-made tahini were some of the only foods I could still enjoy after my time in the country.

The cuisine doesn’t have a ton of variety but what you do get is phenomenal.

Here are a few things you should note…

• They use a ton of oil in their food. This often leads to an upset stomach. Bring some Pepto, Tums, and drink the salty yogurt they give you with many meals.
• Vegans + Vegetarians are gonna have a hard time. Meat + dairy are huge staples in Iraqi cuisine. The areas that don’t a lot of “meat” do a lot of fish. You’ll end up eating pretty much only falafel.
• Street food is safe + cheap.
• Not a single restaurant we visited had an English menu. The best method was to point at dishes other people are eating.
• Fresh pressed juice is an Iraqi favorite. Be sure to get the lime juice, apricot, and raisin during your time in Iraq.

How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Iraq?

As I already hinted at, Iraq is not the most budget-friendly destination.

In total, my partner and I spent 16 days in the country spending $1,134.82.

Not the worst. This averages out to $70.93 per day with about $23 of that going straight to accommodation. Transport in Iraq varied in cost greatly. But a typical journey between cities costs $5-15 per person. We paid for a few historical entrance fees and an overnight spent in the marshes sets you back around $125 (But it’s totally worth it- read about our experience here).

Food in Iraq also varies in cost. Street food was a bargain typically $1-$2 per meal. Restaurants charged closer to $10 per person typically.

Overall, I would say that budgeting $60 per person per day will be more than enough. We managed to sneak in at $35-ish but better safe than sorry.

I loved getting to know this country. The Iraqi people were some of the most gregarious and giving people we’ve encountered on our travels. I was blown away by mountain and desert landscapes. The bread I consumed is the favorite I’ve ever eaten. I hope this post helps you experience the real Iraq and enjoy your time in this wonderful country. As always feel free to reach out on Instagram if you have any questions.

Save This Post For Later!