The Best Iraq Travel Itinerary for 2024 (Map included)

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Iraq is not a country that requires a month-long stay. With the southern 3/4s of the country covered in barren flat desert your time in “federal” Iraq or the non-Kurdish region can be accomplished rather quickly. We decided, albeit a little ambitiously, to traverse the entire country (including Iraqi Kurdistan) in a little over 2 weeks. Unfortunately, that left little room for weather deviation, food poisoning, or just general exhaustion— but it can be done. If you’re short on time but want to experience the very best Iraq has to offer, here’s my 2-week Iraq travel guide complete with add-ons for travelers with more time. 

Obviously, the more time you have the better…but I know a lot of you are working with a two-week vacation time window. So I’m here to help.

Your Complete Iraq Travel Itinerary

If you’re planning on visiting all of Iraq in one visit, you should stay for no less than 2 weeks. This Iraq travel itinerary will assume you have 2 weeks (maybe more) in Iraq. If you have less consider sticking to either Federal Iraq or Iraqi Kurdistan. Not both.

Before you dig into this Iraq itinerary be sure to browse my other guides covering budget travel in Iraq, everything you need to know before you go, + tips for staying safe as a solo woman.

Overview of Our Iraq Itinerary

Iraq Travel Itinerary Map

I’ve gone ahead and created a map for you all with my favorite Iraq sights, hotels, and eats.

For the Kurdistan attractions (outside of Erbil) check out my Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip map.

Baghdad (Day 1 + 2)

If you’re planning on visiting Federal Iraq as an American or European this is where you’ll want to fly for visa purposes. 

 Baghdad reminds me a lot of Cairo. Dusty, polluted, filled with crowded outdoor street markets, and studded with colorful domed mosques. It’s not a particularly good walking city so you’ll have to rely on taxis to get around. My favorite days in Baghdad were spent sipping sweet Iraqi tea in cafes surrounded by shisha smoking men & wandering random street markets. Also, be sure to try both the Raisin & Apricot juice.  

What to see in Baghdad

It’s good to have a few things in mind that you want to see. But Baghdad is best when you just pop into mosques and markets. 

Martyrs Monument or Al-Shaheed Monument

These dramatic blue bell-shaped structures are great for iconic Iraq photos. The entrance fee is 3k IQD or $2 per person. It’s a little outside of town so I recommend getting a Careem.

Al Rashid Street, Al Mutanabi Street or Book Street, Abu Nawas Street

These are the three main walking streets. Al- Mutanabi is by far the most interesting. Known as “Book Street” it really comes alive at night as all the vendors display their wares.

“Cairo Writes, Beirut Prints, but Baghdad Reads”

Haji Zbala Juice Shop.  

They have been serving fresh made juice for well over 100 years. The grape is the staple (or raisin). But sour apricot is also great.

Shebandar Cafe.  

This cafe is special. At first, it looks just like the rest of the tea shops in Baghdad. But the tea here is great + it’s been around for generations. The owner actually lost all 3 sons and 2 grandsons in a car bombing during the war.

Darbunah Restaurant.

If you’re looking for high-quality traditional Iraqi food…this is it. It’s a little on the higher end of the food spectrum but that does not mean small portions. If you walk here be prepared to show your passport at various street checkpoints.

Al-Kadhimiyah Mosque, Ramadan Mosque, Mustansiriya Madrasa

The mosques in Baghdad are incredible. In all of Iraq really. Explore any + all that you can.

Copper Market

A love a good market. The copper market holds far more than simply copper. This market is your traditional Middle Eastern market filled with spices, housewares, food, and yes, hand-made copper goods.

Where to Stay in Baghdad: Royal Garden Hotel 

60,000 IQD or $41 for a double suite. Tell them you’re a member of Iraqi Travelers Cafe to get this discounted price. Breakfast is included. There are some cheaper places to stay in Baghdad on the outskirts of town but since you’ll have to deal with taxis and finding your own breakfast (not super easy in Iraq) I recommend splurging on this one instead. 

WhatsApp Number: +964 751 155 8090 (Shaima)

Another Cheaper Option: Kwestaan Hotel

This was recommended by a friend and fellow traveler. It should cost only 35,000 IQD for two people.

All hotels in Iraq are super expensive online. Don’t bother booking anything ahead of time either. You can arrange things via WhatsApp or just show up for a room.

Budget Travel Tip: Getting to/from Iraq is expensive. Pegasus is a low-cost Turkish airline that flies from Istanbul & Ankara to Iraq for super cheap. Consider combining your Iraq visit with a long stay in Istanbul to enjoy its incredible cafes. Check out my blog post filled with more Iraq budget traveler tips! 

Add on Samarra (Day 3)

If you hate Baghdad (some people do) and are ready to leave after a single day or you have an extra day in Iraq you can visit the ancient city of Samarra and climb the spiraling minaret on a day trip. It takes about 2 hours one-way via minibus or shared taxi. Entrance tickets are about $17 pp. 

Karbala + Babylon (Day 4) 

Karbala. The holiest city for Shia/sunny Muslims in all of Iraq. You 100% cannot miss visiting the two shrines of Karbala. There are two holy cities in Iraq (Karbala + Najaf) & if you’re short on time and can only choose one…Karbala is the way to go.

Babylon is only a 40-minute bus ride from Karbala so the two destinations can easily be combined in a single day. Be sure to visit Saddams Palace while you’re in Babylon. It’s only a short taxi ride from the main gate.

For this Iraq travel itinerary, I recommend…

You leave early from your Baghdad hotel + head to the South Garage. Garage Allawi. From there, get on a bus to Hillah. This is the closest station to Babylon. From here, you’ll get a taxi to Ancient Babylon. It should cost you around $6. The main office or one of the guards at Ishtar Gate can watch your bags for an hour or two while you explore the city. Then take another taxi back to the Hillah Bus station (to Karbala). Grab a minibus to Karbala for $1.50 per person.

UPDATE: I’ve been told by a fellow traveler that while on the bus to Hillah you can inform the driver that you plan to go to Babylon and they will drop you off at a slightly closer point than Hillah station. You’ll still need to grab a taxi to the gate but it will be cheaper.

You could also take a minibus straight from Baghdad to Karbala, drop off your stuff at your hotel, & then head to Babylon and back to Karbala all in one day with no problem. 

What to see in Karbala: 

Imam Hussein’s Shrine + Holy Shrine of Al Abbas

It’s best to visit these attractions late at night when they are fully lit. That’s what really makes them incredibly impressive. They are both open 24/7 and will be filled with other visitors at all times of the day. We went at 10 PM. But you could go as late as 3 AM if you’re inclined.

If you’re visiting during Ramadan, Eid, or another Muslim holiday Karbala is going to be packed. Book your accommodation way in advance. 

Eat fatty coconut sweets + fresh juice.

All around the area of the shrines are dessert shops. Find the busiest one and try a few things. Desserts are a big deal in Iraq (all of the Middle East really) + you should sample all kinds of things you don’t recognize.

Where to stay: Jennet Al- Kawther

This place is a great budget option and should be $20 or less for a couple.

WhatsApp Number: +964 783 419 3970

Or Burg Karbala. This place is a good backup if it’s a holiday and everywhere else is full. Or if you are looking for something a little fancier. Due to its close proximity to the shrine, you must wear an abaya at all times if you’re a woman.

Women Visiting Karbala? To enter the shrine as a woman you’ll need to be dressed in a full abaya, not just a headscarf. You also can’t wear makeup, can’t bring in makeup (chapstick included), no nail polish, must wear socks, & must enter from the female inspection entrance. No cameras, bags, or phone power banks are allowed inside. Being a woman traveling independently in Iraq can be complicated. Read my whole blog post on tips for female travelers to Iraq for more information. 

Add Najaf (Day 5) 

If you have extra time catch a bus to the other holy city of Iraq. In a single day, you can visit the incredible shrine, the world’s largest cemetery (the second largest is in Peru), & get a good feel for the small town. 

Where to Stay: Hotel Al-Maqam

I did not stay overnight in Najaf. But this place was recommended to me by many other travelers as a solid budget-friendly option.

I’ve been told that Najaf + Kufa are both excellent places to visit (specifically the mosque in Kufa) so be sure to fit them into your itinerary if you can!

Mesopotamian Marshes (Day 6) 

This is without a doubt the most unique & soon-to-be-famous attraction in all of Iraq. A must for your Iraq travel itinerary. If you visit Federal Iraq you must make it all the way south to the marshes. 

Depending on how long you want to stay, visiting can be a little bit complicated, however. You essentially have two options. 

Option 1: Day Trip w/ 1 Night stay in Nasiriyah 

Nasiriyah isn’t much in itself but it’s the closest town with lodging to the marshes. From here you can arrange a marsh tour with a street vendor or with Bilweekend (a company we used & highly recommend). A day visit should run about $30 for two and last 4-5 hours. 

Option 2: Overnight stay in the Marshes. 

This is the route we chose + have no regrets. Instead of staying in Nasiriyah, we arranged to go straight to the marshes with Bilweekend. You’ll get a sunset cruise, dinner, campfire, breakfast, & a morning tour of the marshes. Bilweekend is a well-known name in Iraq travel and they are super well-connected so expect to pay more than from other vendors. But I think the experience is worth it.  I’ve been told that other vendors will take you into the marshes overnight for around $75 for two.

Should you stay overnight in the marshes? This is not for everyone. The marshes are remote, swampy, & you’ll have primitive sleeping conditions at best. I detailed the entire experience in another blog post you can read here to help you decide if this is your kind of adventure. 

If you prefer to contact them via WhatsApp instead of Instagram…Bilweekend WhatsApp: +964 790 431 0853

Add Ziggurat of Ur

If you find yourself with a little extra time in Nasiriyah hire a taxi out to the Ziggurat of Ur! This massive structure is 4,500 years old and you can climb atop it for panoramic views. You only need an hour at the site itself. 

2024 Update: You can no longer walk on top of the Ziggurat! This is likely due to increased tourism in Iraq and in an attempt to preserve the life of the Ziggurat for centuries to come.

You could also have seen this sight on your way to the marshes if you took a private taxi or guide.

Why you *should* consider a tour of Federal Iraq. Many of these ancient sites (like Samarra or the Ziggurat of Ur) are far from modern cities which makes getting to them without the help of a tour complicated & expensive. Companies like Bilweekend can also ensure you get through all the necessary military checkpoints & get you access to places other tourists CAN’T go (like the famously destroyed mosque of Al-Nuri in Mosul). I rarely recommend tours but in Iraq’s case…the benefits are high and the relative cost increase is reasonable.  

Add Basra (Day 7) 

We skipped Basra so I don’t have a lot to say about things to do in the port city. Basra has loads of fish markets, a unique seafaring vibe, & is home to the only functional train in Iraq. It only runs certain days of the week (weekends I believe) & connects with Baghdad. This is a good option to get back to the city before entering Kurdistan if the dates line up for you. 

Baghdad (Day 8) 

Otherwise, it’s too much travel time for one day.

Whether you are coming from Basra or from Nasiriyah as we did, you have a 6+ hour journey ahead of you to get to Baghdad. I recommend spending the night here before you continue on to Mosul tomorrow. It’s another long stretch.

Mosul (Day 9) 

Your last stop in Federal Iraq and perhaps the most infamous city in the country. From 2014 to 2017 the town was under ISIS’s control. From your first glance of the West side of the city, the destruction is apparent. Mosul is rebuilding quickly but this side of the river is absolutely decimated. Mosques, homes, and roadways lay in mountains of rubble. Bullet holes and bomb craters riddle every visible structure. Many buildings are just hollowed-out shells. But Mosul is undergoing a revival. Thanks to UNESCO, US, & UAE funds, historic buildings like the famous Al-Nuri mosque in Mosul are being restored. 

Mosul is an important piece of the Iraq picture & an absolute must-visit on any Iraq travel itinerary. 

You should also walk through the Old Market and the areas around the Al-Nuri mosque to get a look at the remains of Mosul’s Old City. 

Where to Stay: Alsfer Hotel

$15 for a two-person room. And it’s on the West side of the city which is infinitely more interesting.

Bilweekend Tour. We visited on a tour with Bilweekend and were granted access to the Al-Nuri Mosque, Syrian Catholic Church, and inside buildings still being cleared of land mines and explosives. I highly recommend at the very least, hiring a guide to get a little perspective on the horrors the people of Mosul endured for 3 years under the reign of ISIS. 

Getting to Mosul

There is public transport that runs regularly from Baghdad. No checkpoints and it only takes about 4 hours.

Erbil (Day 10 + 11) 

Welcome to Kurdistan. Although still technically a piece of Iraq this region could not be more different. For starters, it’s mountainous. Erbil is a lively little circular city with a massive central bazaar + park to wander, good food, and my favorite mosque in the Kurdistan region. 

Road trip!! Iraqi Kurdistan is also one of the easiest, safest, & most spectacular road trip destinations in the Middle East. Think snow-covered mountain peaks, green hillsides dotted with wildflowers, winding cattle-filled roads, and countless scenic overlooks. The landscape here could not be more different from the deserts of federal Iraq. We did a 4-day road trip in Kurdistan & laid out everything you need to know in this separate blog post. 

Where to Stay: Lord City Hotel 

40,000 IQD or $27 for a double room. All the rooms here have squat toilets instead of European. They also have huge windows overlooking the main bazaar and park fountains. Parking here is horrendous but the location couldn’t be better for those traveling on foot.

What to See + Eat in Erbil

Citadel Castle, Grand Bazaar, + Main Square

This is the main tourist plaza. The market here is filled with worry beads, turquoise rings, and all kinds of other unique goods. The Citadel Castle is especially good for sunset.

Fancy Coffee Shop, Tea Shops, + The BEST Breakfast Place in Iraq

Unfortunately, you can’t locate these exact places on google maps. But I estimated on the map I provided for you. Walk the perimeter of the main bazaar and you’ll find lots of coffee and tea shops, world-class shawarma + falafel, tasty soft-serve (get the pistachio kind), and lots of street food.

My favorite place is an outdoor alleyway breakfast spot. It has the best tea in town + you can order eggs with soft fresh bread. Super cheap and very authentic. I put the rough location on the map I provided.

Hummus + Fuul (Syrian Cuisine)

If I had to pick one meal to re-eat from Iraq…it would be this one. Unfortunately, it’s super far outside of town. But it’s worth a cab ride. We ate there before returning our car rental after our Kurdistan road trip.

Jalil Khayat Mosque

Foreigners are only allowed inside the mosque from 9-11 AM. Come prepared with an abaya or headdress. It’s just as impressive inside as it is outside.

Tamdar Restaurant (Kurdish Cuisine)

Finding traditional Kurdish food done well is difficult. This place does it. Be warned it’s kinda expensive but the portions are large enough to share.

Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip (Days 12-15)

Now scoot on over to my Iraqi Kurdistan Road Trip Itinerary for your last 4 days in Iraq.

If you are against renting a car or don’t have a license, continue reading. These next stops can all be reached via public transport. Or hitchhike if you’re feeling adventurous! It’s very common in Kurdistan.

Akre (Alternative Day 12) 

Perched on a mountainside Akre is both accessible by public transport and perfectly picturesque. As far as “attractions” go there are none specifically worth noting but these are my favorite viewpoints & overlooks to walk to in the city. Visiting here also gives you the opportunity to enjoy the Kurdish countryside & if you’re feeling up to it— go on a hike. 

Why Akre instead of Amedi? Amedi is a photo-worthy town sitting on the top of a lone mesa. The only problem is without a car you won’t be able to easily get the dramatic sweeping views this town is known for. If you’re relying on public transit or hitchhiking (perfectly safe in Kurdistan) I would recommend visiting Akre instead. 

Sulaymaniyah (Alternative Day 13 + 14)

The most blasphemous thing we did on our Iraq trip was to skip visiting Suli. This city is in the east corner of Kurdistan and is universally loved by travelers. Possibly because it’s the only city with a hostel in all of Iraq. Here you can visit the harrowing museums depicting the atrocities Saddam Hussein committed against the Kurdish people & also after, unwind with some panoramic Zagros mountain views. 

Where to Stay: Dolphin Hostel

The only hostel in all of Iraq. The owner here is super helpful and kind. Be sure to book in person or via WhatsApp for the best price. And don’t forget to drop that you’re a member of the Iraqi Travellers Cafe on Facebook.

WhatsApp: +964 770 184 6332

If you’re like me you’ll probably end your trip through Iraq with a flight out of Erbil (known for its cheap flights to Turkey). And that’s a wrap. This is a jam-packed 2-week itinerary in Iraq. Personally, I think that just under 3 weeks is the perfect amount of time for the road trip + all the extra add-ons without completely burning the candle at both ends. 

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions about Iraq or if you have any thoughts on other destinations to add to our Iraq travel itinerary! 

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