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Over and over again, I was told you can’t self-drive Mongolia. It’s too vast, too remote, too rugged. There’s no one to help you if you get lost or stuck which you inevitably will. I took to the internet to try to find more information. Aside from a handful of overlanders who had driven down to the Gobi Desert independently, I couldn’t find a single helpful blog post. It seemed the unanimous verdict was…it was too dangerous/risky to rent a car and drive around Mongolia on your own.
But they were all wrong.
I’m not saying this was an easy journey. We did get stuck in a river and had to be rescued at one point. But never were our lives in (serious) danger and it was one of the best travel experiences of my life.
To help you navigate renting a 4×4 vehicle and self-drive Mongolia on your own, I’m writing this blog post to show you how we did it and that it CAN be done.
Should YOU Independently Road Trip Mongolia?
…is a question that only you can answer.
All of Mongolia is not created equal when it comes to ease of travel and road quality. Pretty much anyone with a license can drive to Hustai and Terelj National Parks from Ulanbaatar. But getting to the remote corners of Siberia to camp with the nomadic reindeer herders? You best be prepared for a true adventure.
My thoughts on who should self-drive in Mongolia
If this sounds like you then I think you can 100% handle a self-drive road trip in Mongolia, the least densely populated country on earth.
- You are looking for an adventure and not just a cheap way to get around.
- You are willing to put in a lot of “pre-trip planning” when it comes to routes and gear.
- It’s okay to be a little nervous about getting stranded and having to wait for a rescue but the thought doesn’t send you into a spiraling panic.
- You are a semi-experienced traveler.
- Driving on unpaved or off-road sections is not a totally new experience for you.
- You are willing to rough it + not expecting luxury out in the vast empty taiga.
- You plan to be in the country for longer than 2 weeks.
- More than just the Gobi Desert is on your itinerary. You want to see the more remote and less well-connected corners of the country.
- Finally, you have a wee bit of common sense. (But not too much otherwise you probably wouldn’t be planning to self-drive in Mongolia) This common sense will help make sure you don’t drive into a raging river, eat raw bubonic plague-infested prairie dog meat, or jump in a freezing lake and drown.
If you’re reading any of this and thinking… yeaaah that doesn’t seem like me, then personally, I would consider choosing a different way to explore the country. Just for safety’s sake and your own personal trip enjoyment.
There are lots of ways to enjoy Mongolia. From independent travel to group tours. Self-driving without the help of a local guide is not for everyone.
Wild Camping and Gers
There are two different options when it comes to accommodation while you’re on a Mongolia road trip.
Wild Camping: Free tent camping in the vast Mongolian steppe or anywhere that is not private property for that matter.
Ger Camps: One of the most interesting things to do in Mongolia is stay with a local family in a traditional ger. A ger is essentially a tent or yert.
Read More: The Most Interesting Things to Do in Mongolia
How Much Does a Mongolia Road Trip Cost?
If you’re thinking…driving myself across Mongolia is a great way to skip the expensive group tours and save myself some money — ehhhhh. Not really so much. Unless you are traveling with a small group of people to split the costs with (4-5 people in total). Even then you’re not likely to save money going this route.
While group tours in Mongolia are definitely pricey, so is renting a vehicle. Especially a 4×4.
But you’re paying for the adventurous experience.
Here’s a cost breakdown of what we spent in Mongolia for 3 weeks self-driving with 4 people!
Vehicle Rental Fees: $200 per day for a Nissan Patrol with tent, sleeping bags, cooking gear, and full repair kit.
Gas: $710 total
Ger Camps: $435 total
Groceries + Gear: $492.75 total
Meals in restaurants: $153 total
Road Tolls: $10 total
Entrance fees: $22 per person
Optional Trip to Tsataan Tribe w/ Reindeer: $300 per person
Optional Shaman + Offering Fees: $70 per person
Rescue Fee After Getting Stuck in River: $300 total
Self-Drive Costs for 2 People: $6,918
Self-Drive Costs for 4: $7,822.74
Average Cost of a Comparable Group Tour: $4,000+ per person
This obviously shows why it’s better to have more people in your car to split some of the set costs like the car and gas. You can lower this cost by not getting stuck in a river and/or skipping a visit to the Tsaatan tribe. But honestly, I wouldn’t skip it. The reindeer that is, not the river. You should definitely avoid getting stuck in the river.
Budget Travel in Mongolia: If you are looking for a BUDGET option to travel the country you should consider a local bus (to most destinations) or hiring a driver + vehicle which can actually be a little cheaper in some places because you’re hiring someone to drive their own car in many cases.
Are You Telling Me It’s Cheaper to Rent a Car & Driver Than Just the Car??
Yes. This is one of those weird only in Mongolia moments.
You can rent a car and driver for only about $80 per day in 2024. But then adding in fees like his accommodation + entrance fees (you are responsible for) you’ll be spending around $120 per day for the driver and the car. Still far cheaper than the car itself.
This is because it’s less risky for rental companies to have cars driven by experienced Mongolian drivers familiar with the local roads.
Tips for Preparing Your Car + Gear to Road Trip Mongolia
My #1 tip for those embarking on a road trip of a lifetime is to ALWAYS have 3-5 days’ worth of water and food in your vehicle at all times. Also, a tent and warm sleeping bags.
Do that and you’ll guarantee that if you do get stuck or stranded you’ll have enough resources to stay warm, dry, and fed until help comes along. Which depending on how remote your location is could be a few days.
I wrote an entire packing list for those traveling Mongolia independently that includes a full car kit + what you can expect to get from your car rental company.
A Few Packing Tips to Keep in Mind
- It gets cold in Mongolia. Even in the Gobi in August.
- Always have at least 1-2 spare tires. Holes happen.
- Extra lighters and a few packs of cigarettes are essential for making friends in the Taiga.
- You won’t have access to basic groceries outside major cities like UB and Murun. Stock up.
This is perhaps the most important section of this whole blog post.
Because THIS is the most difficult part about independent travel in Mongolia. Unlike in other countrys you cannot simply hit “directions” on Google and expect to get where you are going. Instead, you’ll have to employ a variety of navigation tactics including (but not limited to)…
- A paper map. This is the most up-to-date we could find.
- Maps.Me (with my Epic Itinerary route downloaded)
- Google Maps.
- Garmin Watch. While a little pricy the GPS map on this watch was super helpful for us when returning from Tsagaannuur.
- Directions from locals.
Other tactics we employed to get where we were going…hand-drawn maps from locals, compasses, following other drivers, and also flying our drone up to see where the road ahead went.
Do You Need A SIM Card to Road Trip Mongolia?
In short: yes. Many of them.
You should try to get a couple of SIM cards from different service providers to maximize the chance that you will have service in the more remote areas. I talk about this at length in my guide to independent travel in Mongolia.
Where to Rent Your 4×4 Vehicle & Gear From
*not sponsored just loved this rental company*
Drive Mongolia is the #1 4×4 rental company in the country. I personally rented a Nissan Patrol but they also have some Landcruisers and Russian Vans.
These are the reasons I think every traveler should rent from Bataar at Drive Mongolia.
- Cost-effective option. For a straightforward flat daily fee, Bataar gives you a high-quality car + all the gear you need.
- GEAR. Included with his rentals is cooking supplies including a propane stove, two spare tiles, tow ropes + massive car repair kit, tent, sleeping bags, AND for a small extra fee a rescue satellite phone to give you peace of mind.
- Easy rescue. If you do happen to get yourself stuck you can call Bataar and he guarantees that no matter where in the country you find yourself he can get to you in under 3 days time.
- Knowledge. Bataar was a wealth of knowledge about the road conditions and routes we should take and he’s more than happy to sit down with clients and help them plan their trip.
- Small local business! This one is just a bonus. But why support a big company when you could contribute to a local’s?
A lot of people rent cars from Sixt in Mongolia. They have Landcruisers, Nisson Patrol, and the very popular Prius. But the reason I don’t recommend them is because they are more expensive, less responsive if you need help, and don’t give you all the necessary camping and repair gear that you should have for off-road adventures.
Just because locals drive Prius’s everywhere (yes, including off-road) doesn’t mean this should be your car of choice.
How Far in Advance Should I Rent My Car?
If you are planning your road trip for the “peak” season (July + August) the sooner the better. Bataar recommends securing your rental 4-6 months in advance. We managed to procure a car with only 1 month notice but I WOULD NOT count on that.
The vehicle should be the very first thing on your “Mongolia Road Trip To-Do List”.
Do I Really Need a 4×4?
Probably. The only real reason to road trip Mongolia is the adventure of it. If you are just planning to stick to the paved roadways between the Murun and UB and the Gobi Desert…you’re money might be better spent just hiring a driver.
But if you plan to venture into the rocky terrain of the Central Gobi or the muddy boggy swampland of the Taiga…then 10000% you need a 4×4.
Keep in mind, I had a 4×4 and I still managed to get stuck for a few days at one point.
Do I Need an International Driver’s License?
Yes. Several checkpoints near UB require you to have one AND most rental companies won’t hand over the keys to the 4×4 without it.
Obtaining an international driver’s license as an American is as simple as paying a small $20-ish dollar fee to AAA. You can do that here.
Important Car Kit Packing List
Read More: My full Mongolia Packing List
This is all you need.
Information About Road Conditions in Mongolia
No matter what you’re level of experience, there IS a route YOU can drive yourself in Mongolia. Some roads are paved and empty with plenty of cell signal for even the most nervous traveler. But the important thing is knowing where those areas are and being prepared for the route you want to take in Mongolia.
Breakdown of Road Difficulty by Destination
These are based on my own personal opinions from driving here in 2024.
Terelj National Park: Easy
Hustai National Park: Easy
White Stupa: Easy
Khongoryn Els: Easy
Yolyn Am: Easy
Orkhon Waterfall: Medium – Advanced
Erdene Zu Monastery: Easy
Khorgo Volcano: Medium
Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake: Medium – Advanced
Murun: Easy
Khuvsgul Lake: Easy
Tsagaanuur: Advanced. The most difficult of the regions to reach.
Khyargas + Uvs Lake: Medium
Altai Region: Advanced
Amarbayasgalant Monastery: Medium
This self-made map gives you more of a visual idea of the quality of the roads and the areas you should avoid if you’re a nervous driver.
Planning Your Route
Here are my three Mongolia road trip itineraries of varying skill levels and trip lengths.
Now that you know what kind of skill level/sense of adventure is required for each of Mongolia’s most popular destinations you can plan a route you are comfortable with. I’ve taken the liberty and done a lot of that for you.
All-In
A Little Off-Road
Easy
EPIC Self-Drive Mongolia Itinerary: Gobi Desert, Altai Mountains, & Reindeer Tribes
The perfect 3-4ish week itinerary for independent travelers.
The Best 2 Week Mongolia Itinerary: Craters, Lakes, and Solitude
Explore the Gobi Desert, Khorgo Volcano, Hustai National Park, stunning monasteries, and more. This…
1-Week Mongolia Itinerary: The Vast Gobi Desert
This fast-paced 1-week Mongolia itinerary covers Yolyn Am Valley, the Gobi Desert, White Stupa,…
While we did the “All-In” option…I would say that 99% of travelers should NOT do this. Please read my full guide on getting to the Tsaatan Tribe before you take that journey.
What Exactly Does “Off-Road” Mean in Mongolia?
Off-road can mean many things in the country but mostly…it means hard-packed dirt tracks that cut through vast flat lands or rolling hills. The challenge can be choosing the correct track of the dozens that cut their way through the grass. Fortunately, most paths criss-cross one another and all end up in relatively the same place.
In a few challenging places, off-road can mean swampy muddy bog-like roads that actually involve a little technical driving. This is what we encountered on our way to Tsagaanurr. If you choose to venture off on the “all-in” adventure you should have a little bit of comfortability with muddy terrain so you don’t get stuck.
It’s also a regular occurrence in Mongolia to cross rivers. Most of the time this involves choosing a crossing with just a foot or so of flowing water. Sometimes (especially after a rain) it can be deeper and you should always exercise caution when crossing. Follow a local across if you can.
Mongolia Road Trip Tips
Now you’re ready to hit the road. You’ve rented the car, packed your bags, and planned your route. Here are the things you need to know to successfully drive yourself through (and around) Mongolia.
The 10 Commandments of Overlanding in Mongolia
1. Google lies.
Both in directions and in the time estimated for your route. Even when driving on the pavement add an hour or two minimum to your ETA. As for navigation, see my preparation section at the top & download all the apps and accessories for easy navigation.
2. Take the more trodden trail always.
There is a reason it is more trodden. I promise.
3. When in doubt, get out and scout.
Never be afraid to get out and check the depth of the water or condition of the road ahead if it looks sketchy. This is one of the most common mistakes when it comes to water crossings.
Speaking of dealing with river crossings: you should check the depth of water, speed of flow, rocky or muddy bottom of river, and your entry and exit point to make sure it’s not too steep.
4. Everything’s shit and nothing works.
“Just when you think it’s all working out, everything is shit and nothing works”
This quickly became the motto of our trip. For reasons that were 99% our fault. Here’s a list of things that happened to us at various times on our Mongolian Road Trip Adventure. Mostly just for entertainment value but also to teach you that SHIT HAPPENS. It’s best to be flexible.
- Got Sandfly Fever (apparently) in the Maldives & arrived in Mongolia to immediately be hospitalized.
- Managed to get the car stuck in a river. Like really stuck. It took us the help of numerous shepherds over the course of about 36 hours to remove it.
- Took the wrong way into super flooded boggy roads and almost got stranded yet again.
- Took another incorrect route and found ourselves on super tippy roads that seemed like we might just topple into the lake we were driving around.
- Popped one spare tire on the off-roads in the desert.
- Had our rear suspension yanked out in a particularly muddy and stumpy area of bog. (Don’t worry a local helped us put it back in.)
- After submerging the car in the river we shut it off for lunch (okay, looking at a dead cow) before reaching town and a mechanic. It wouldn’t restart. This meant I had to walk three miles in the blazing sun to hail down a car for help.
But despite all of this, we managed. It was the most exhilarating and incredible experience. Even with all the misadventures.
5. Act as though 1/2 a tank of Gas is empty.
Because it is.
If you’ve rented from Drive Mongolia then you’ll also have an emergency gas container on the roof. But either way, when your car reaches 1/2 tank you should start looking for a fuel-up immediately.
I recommend mapping out fuel before you leave the main roads. Just to be sure you’ll actually make it to your destination.
6. Watch out for tippy roads.
This is pretty self-explanatory.
7. Always ask for directions from a local.
Locals know their way around these roads better than any map.
8. But take hand-drawn maps with a little caution.
They are meant to be more of a general route plan rather than an exact route.
9. Never drive after dark.
This is the rule to live by.
10. Be wary of shutting off the vehicle in remote places.
As I mentioned before, sometimes when you shut a car off…it doesn’t turn back on. Obviously, you can’t NOT shut the car off. But just be wary when you’re out in the middle of nowhere with not a ger in sight.
Other Important Things to Consider on your Road Trip
Here’s a handful of other helpful tips that will help keep you on the road in Mongolia.
The 200 KM Rule
200 KM is the maximum distance you should plan to cover off the pavement. That kind of distance off-road will take about 6-8 hours. Not because it’s technically difficult but because it’s slow going and you’ll need time to navigate.
Self-sufficiency is key.
Everything in this blog post is meant to help you be self-sufficient or as much so as possible while out in Mongolia. It’s a good goal to strive for.
Watch out for crossing wildlife.
Sheep and yaks tend to come out of nowhere. Especially on roads where there are few other cars. For whatever reason, they seem to love to just stand in the roadways despite having literally thousands of miles of rolling pastures.
Or drunk drivers.
Unfortunately, the more remote areas of Mongolia have a reputation for some heavy drinking. With lots of unpoliced roads and few people around, there are more drunk drivers than your typical roadway. Yet another reason not to drive after dark.
Be wary of bridges.
They are not all neatly constructed and more than a few times we found the river to be easier to cross without the old dilapidated bridge of holes that stretched across it.
Plan Ahead But Also Be Flexible.
When you undertake a trip like this you have to anticipate some curveballs. You’ll never be totally prepared or have all the gear you should have. There will always be something that sends even the best-laid plans awry. The best thing you can do is prepare and plan so that you have the most information possible when these things happen.
If you have any questions about overlanding Mongolia or planning the perfect independent road trip you can always email me at geena.truman@gmail.com and I will do my best to give you the most up-to-date information. Hope this helps and gives you the confidence to set out on an ill-advised grand adventure of your own.
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