Sri Lanka absolutely blew us away. We expected to lounge on some relaxing surf beaches and take in the lush green landscapes we had heard so much about along the Kandy to Ella train. But we got so much more than that. And there were plenty of things that surprised me about Sri Lanka.
I think it’s safe to say that Sri Lanka is now our all-time favorite country. & Sri Lanka is the perfect vacation destination for everyone. Wildlife enthusiasts, surfers, families, solo-travelers, foodies, couples looking for a romantic getaway, or yes– even budget travelers like myself.
Trust me, you want to visit Sri Lanka. You might just not know it yet. So to spark your interest and to help you plan your inevitable trip to the teardrop-shaped island….
Here are 22 things that surprised me while visiting Sri Lanka
1. Sri Lanka Runs One of the Most Scenic Train Lines in the World—The Kandy to Ella Train
Passing vibrantly green tea fields with endless rows of crops, lush rainforests covered in a thin sheen of mist, and wide-open rolling valleys. This train cuts through the heart of Sri Lanka & is a must-see on everyone’s Sri Lanka bucket-list.
Train Tip: The seats go fast—Consider booking a “reserved ticket” the day before or opt to sit in the doorway for the absolute best views.
2. Sri Lanka is Super Budget Friendly
This is budget-traveler heaven. Local meals cost between $2-$6 for two, guesthouse private rooms are around $12 a couple including breakfast, and much of Sri Lanka’s allure is the free scenic hikes & unique cities to explore. Don’t get me wrong there are plenty of big-ticket items worth the splurge–like a safari in one of Sri Lanka’s many National Parks or an ethical Whale Watching Tour with Raja & the Whales, but day-to-day your costs will be very low.
Overall we averaged spending $54 per day for the two of us over the course of one month in Sri Lanka.
Public transport here was also a game-changer. But I’ll talk more about that below.
3. Sri Lanka is One of the Top Wildlife Destinations in the World
Animals encounters are always a highlight of my travels & I hadn’t expected a whole lot of them from this teeny tiny island in the Indian Ocean. But I was SO happily surprised. Sri Lanka has national parks covering the country, an abundance of wildlife roaming about, and its ocean is home to its own population of Blue Whales year-round.
Wild Blue Whale Leopard at Wilpattu National Park
During our one month visit to the country, we saw leopards, elephants, blue whales, fin whales, black-tipped sharks, stingrays, green turtles, mongoose, jackals, many tropical bird species, peacocks, bird’s of prey, hanuman langur’s, purple-faced langurs, spotted deer, and of course water buffalo. All wild- no sanctuaries or game farms.
If you want a full breakdown of all the best wildlife encounters in Sri Lanka & how to choose which National Park Safari is right for you, check out my full blog post.
4. Men Forgo Modesty in Jaffna
Typical temple attire is shoulders and knees completely covered. It’s something you get accustomed too rather quickly in Asia. But in Jaffna, Sri Lanka’s Northernmost city, men remove their shirts before entering the Hindu temples.
5. While We’re Talking Jaffna…. Men’s only Pools.
Jaffna is different from every other region of Sri Lanka. It was the epicenter of Sri Lanka’s 26-year long civil war that ended in 2009, home of some crumbling historical forts, and is has a Tamil majority population. (Sinhalese is the ethnic majority in the rest of the country) And it sees few tourists. Which is a shame.
In this off-the-beaten-path city, we visited what we considered to be the main attraction—the Keerimalai Holy Pools. But despite their progressive shirtless antics in the temple, this holy water is segregated…Men Only. Women are free to bathe inside the bathhouse in a much less picturesque venue. But if you make it to Jaffna (which you should) it’s still worth a look.
6. Public Transport is a Breeze
This isn’t the most wanderlust item on this list but it’s practical. There is seriously a bus on every corner, Sri Lanka is completely connected via a network of government and private buses. And they run roughly every 3-5 minutes.
A 30-minute trip usually costs around 50 rupees or $0.25. The north & central regions of the island are also connected by some of the most scenic train journeys in the world. & they are equally as easy on the budget.
7. The Sheer Amount of People Who Make the Pilgrimage to Adam’s Peak (Sri Pada)
Over 12,000 stone stairs in total crossing a round-trip distance of 9 miles. The trail is brutal. To add to the challenge–the hike to the summit begins at 2 AM so that you get to watch the sunrise from the top. But the peak is a religious pilgrimage site, not a typical tourist attraction. Christian, Buddhist, Hindu, & Muslim devouts all believe that this particular summit holds spiritual significance & many make the climb once a year. Once was enough for us. But passing elderly women clutching walking sticks, young mothers holding infants, & countless barefoot individuals you can see how much it means to them. Thousands climb the peak every single day so don’t expect a solitary hike to the summit.
Sri Pada Tip: Don’t visit on a holiday, weekend, or full moon (a holiday in Sri Lanka). On these occasions, the summit can be unreachable. It’s not uncommon for 100,000 people to attempt the climb. You’ll be stuck in a standstill with the masses for up to 5 HOURS trying to summit the last 500 ft. It’s not worth it.
On the other end of the spectrum–Don’t try to climb Adam’s Peak during the off-season. If the sky is overcast or rainy you’ll make it to the peak miserable & wet without any view to speak of as a reward.
Be sure to check out my full guide on climbing Adam’s Peak before you go.
8. Ella Wasn’t the Haven I Had Imagined it to Be
Disembarking our train in Ella after exploring the northern regions of Sri Lanka I was surprised to find myself surrounded by tourists. But Ella is a small mountain town, a town that is firmly on the tourist track through Sri Lanka. & unfortunately, tourism has taken over. The main street is packed with over-priced western food, vegan cafes, and hotels. But if you can get past sharing your mountain paradise with everyone else Ella has some really amazing hikes & attractions in the surrounding area.
Top Attractions to Visit: Little Adam’s Peak, Ella Rock, & the famous Nine Arch Bridge
9. Tea is a BIG Deal in Sri Lanka
Tea Plantations 
Local Tea Harvesters
You get a pot for breakfast & you’ll likely have at least one more pot throughout the day. I was averaging about 5 cups a day. It’s Sri Lanka’s biggest export and what the country is known for worldwide. You can tour tea plantations, wander through one of their countless tea fields, and sample some of the world’s finest at one of their many tea houses. I learned loads about tea & how it’s produced and came away with a whole new appreciation for good tea.
10. How Many Different Types of Curry & Sambol Exist in Sri Lanka
Americans are really left out of the curry scene. Indian food in America just isn’t up to par with the Indian food in Asia & much of Europe. Curry in Sri Lanka is a daily affair. It’s typically eaten at lunchtime (with a small portion of Dal Curry served with breakfast) but plenty of places offer the vegetarian curry buffets for dinner. Each vegetable or meat is mixed with curry leaves and it’s own unique blend of spices to create such a wide array of flavors you’ll never get tired of it. We tried ochre, eggplant, potato, pumpkin, mango, jackfruit, carrot, beet, even banana curry & then there’s the chicken, fish, and seafood curries.
As for sambol, the tasty sauce that you put on everything, I preferred the pink slightly spicy coconut sambol you get for breakfast with your coconut roti. But there are quite a few varieties.
Bringing back the Buffet: As a general backpacker rule, I avoid buffets. It usually means food not cooked recently & possibly even the day before. Sri Lanka changed that. Vegetarian curry buffets are the thing to eat here. Obviously go for ones that are busy but they were cooked fresh & always the tastiest meals we ate in the country.
11. The Amazing Hospitality of the Guesthouses in Sri Lanka
You absolutely should stay in guesthouses. Not only is it the cheapest option & you’re directly supporting local families but the quality of the rooms & hospitality was above any hotel we’ve stayed at. Our hosts brought us a pot of tea & biscuits or fresh-squeezed juice upon our arrival, offered home-cooked feasts for dinner, almost always included a free massive Sri Lankan breakfast spread in the morning & welcomed us into their homes. Some gave us the insider tips to visiting certain tourist attractions and others even gave us free rides to & from train stations.
On average we paid $12 per night.
12. Nuwara Eliya is Super British
Complete with “high tea” at the Grand Hotel and a traditional British Pub next door, if you’re from the UK you’ll find yourself right at home in the tea capital of Sri Lanka. The Brits did rule Sri Lanka until 1948 & Nuwara Eliya has retained much of the old colonial feel.
Travel Tip: This is an essential stop on the Kandy to Ella route & one of the most scenic legs of the journey due to all the tea plantations. The best homestays were just slightly out of town & we can really recommend Backpacker’s Nest. Try his cheese Kottu while you’re there–you won’t be dissappointed.
13. Kandy is a Bustling City & The Only Place You Might Get Scammed
Why did I imagine Kandy to be this small misty lakeside town…I couldn’t tell you. But Kandy is actually the second-largest city in Sri Lanka & a little rougher around the edges than the capital Colombo. TukTuk drivers charge more here, touts will try & sell you fake tickets for events such as the nightly traditional dance exhibition, and waiters in restaurants will ask you for extra tips. It was a wonderful city to see but it wasn’t what I had pictured.
14. The Ampuluwawa Tower Outside Kandy Has Some of the Best Views in the Country
Also known as the spiral tower, this manmade peak is bound to give you a bout of vertigo. There are tons of places promising phenomenal views of Sri Lanka’s stunning landscapes but this place might just take the cake. High atop a mountain peak reachable via bus & long hike or tuk-tuk from Kandy there is a 7-story tower overlooking the hills. The pinnacle of the tower sits at around 7,000 ft up. I’ll let the views speak for themselves.
15. How Expensive The Ancient Cities & Lion Rock (Sigiriya Rock) Are
Sri Lanka is, in general, a backpacker destination. But the ancient cities of Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, Dambulla, and Anuradhapura are UNESCO-recognized historical sites. & with that accolade comes a hefty price-tag. We visited all 4 ancient cities & here is what we recommend.
- Polonnaruwa & Anuradhapura have a $25 per person price-tag to visit. Personally, we liked the sprawling Polonnaruwa city better because it is easily explored via bicycle and the ruins are better preserved.
- Dambulla is a small town and the highlight is the Dambulla caves. If you find yourself in the region the caves are only $8 per person and well worth the short hike.
- Sigiriya is the town you cannot miss. We spent 3-days here and were blown away by the scenery. Summiting the iconic Lion Rock will cost you $25 per person however summitting Pidurangala rock will cost you $3 per person. Pidurangala rock looks directly across the valley at Lion Rock & provides a much better view of the surrounding area. You really just miss out on the temples & historical sites at the summit of Lion Rock. Only you can decide if the extra cost is worth it to you.
16. How Diverse The Southern Coast Is & How Long It Takes to See ALL The Beaches
We allowed 11 days of our 30-day Sri Lankan visa to explore the beaches along the Southern coast. It wasn’t enough.
I was worried we would be all beached out & bored by the end of it but between swimming with wild sea-turtles, scenic viewpoints, whale-watching, snorkeling, surfing, and the ever-growing list of beaches to see–we ran out of time.
Honestly, it’s impossible to see it all in 30-days and you will have to prioritize which beaches are more your style. So, I wrote a guide to all my favorite beaches for just that purpose.
17. Weligama is a Better Beginner Surf Beach Than Hiriketiya
Hiriketiya is the surf beach. But for beginners like me sometimes the small overcrowded beach was a lot to handle. There are rocks lining both sides, some to watch out for in the middle, & loads of other surfers. Weligama Beach, however, had mild evenly breaking waves on an impossibly long silky smooth and rock free beach. There are still tons of surfers here but the surf area is so massive that you can carve out your own space no problem. It was perfect for those just trying to get their bearings on a board & not drown.
Travel Tip: That being said Hiriketiya was my favorite beach area. It shouldn’t be missed. As far as food, environment, and availability of homestays this is the place to be. For a full breakdown of which beach is best, check out my guide to Sri Lanka’s many beach towns.
It cost 250 rupees or $1.25 for an hour surf rental.
18. How Difficult it Can Be to Find Local Sri Lankan Food On The Southern Coast (& a Guesthouse with Wifi)
It’s not impossible, it definitely exists. There is just so much tourism in this area that the restaurants cater to the average tourist. The people who like to eat eggs & toast for breakfast, instead of those of us who want to indulge in Sri Lanka traditional cuisines. Often you have to order the night before. Which is inconvient if you’re not “planning ahead” kind of people. Venture off the main road & you’ll likely find a hidden away local spot.
Also don’t expect guesthouses in this area to have great Wifi. If you need a connection just be extra careful to read the reviews on booking.com before you stay.
19. You Can Swim With Wild Sea Turtles at Polhena Beach
Polhena Beach was not a stop on our original itinerary. In fact, we hadn’t even heard of it until we stumbled upon a blog post about swimming with wild turtles in Sri Lanka.
The beach is on the Southern tip of the island and blessed with warm shallow seas where the wild sea turtles have set up camp. 15 turtles live in this bay year-round because the food is plentiful. Within minutes of securing our snorkel masks, we spotted 2 massive turtles munching away on seagrass and several large stingrays fluttering across the white sand–nearly invisible against the seafloor.
This became one of my favorite beaches in Sri Lanka. But all of them are so different. So I wrote a guide to all my favorite beaches along the Southern coast of Sri Lanka that will help you distinguish the hippy surfer towns from the resort-filled beaches.
20. No One Has Change for a 5,000 Rupee Note Ever
Inconviently, ATM’s in Sri Lanka dispense currency in 5,000 rupee notes. And no one ever has change. Countless times we were sent wandering down the street asking every stranger and business we could to break our 5,000 rupee so that we could pay for our lunch.
The people who most commonly could make change? Grocery stores & small shops. Locals are buying food all day long in small currency which means they often have a lot on hand.
21. Wine Stores are an Essential Stop if you Plan on Drinking in Sri Lanka
The drinking culture in Sri Lanka is basically non-existent. In the Northern parts of the island near Jaffna, you won’t find a single bar or restuarant serving alcohol. Even along the Southern beaches the places that do serve alcohol are extremely expensive. Often nearing $4 for a 16oz can of beer.
Wine Stores are your most budget-friendly and widely spread option. It took awhile for us to catch on, but these roadside establishments have all kinds of wine, cider, beer, and liqour for a dirt cheap price.
22. Sri Lanka Would Become One of My Favorite Travel Destinations
Top 3 for sure. I loved this country. It’s the perfect combination of amazing food, stunning landscapes, unique wildlife encounters, kind-hearted people, and relaxing beaches. It truly has something for every kind of traveler. Who knew such a little island could be so diverse!!
These 22 things that surprised me about Sri Lanka are also super helpful to anyone looking to visit the island. If you need additional inspiration be sure to check out all the links below!
Need Help Planning Your Trip to Sri Lanka?
- Your Complete Guide to Sri Lanka’s Southern Coast: Which Beach is Best?
- Summitting Adam’s Peak: Your Complete Guide to Sri Lanka’s Holy Pilgrimage
- Unique Wildlife Encounters You Can Only Have in Sri Lanka.
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